Flybarless Protos, share your files and your notes on your setups :)

[whisperdancer]

No. It's not necessary to level the arms. The arms are there just to carry the inner part of the swash. Nothing more. They have absolutely no effect on the geometry of the head.
As example, the first FBL upgrade didn't even had moving arms...

[terrabit]

It may not be necessary to level the arms but it absolutely does affect geometry. Best case scenario, there would be no slop between the inner swash and the head, the swash to blade grip link rods would be perfectly parallel at all times. The function of the swash driver is to accomplish this by minimizing deviation between the inner swash and head thereby maintaining ideal geometric uniformity. It cannot do this perfectly because some slop exists, particularly at extremes of throw. This is true of the original design and the current design. It is true of all swash drivers that I've worked with to some degree. Some are definitely better than others in managing this mechanical limitation but, none do it perfectly. Because some slop exists, some phasing error will also exist. If the mixing arms are not level at zero pitch it would then follow that the degree of deviation would not be in balance. Again, phasing error will manifest itself as nonaxial rotation.

[whisperdancer]

That would happen if not if they weren't level at 0º, but if they weren't symetrical.
In the current situation, is like you do everything but with a negatove pitch. If this was a problem, every heli would have problems unless it was at 0º pitch.

[Thunder Fighter]

I'm a bit confused by what you are saying Terrabit, why would any slop be symmetrical if the arms are level at 0 deg and not be symmetrical if not? The load is in the same direction regardless of the position of the arms and they can only move in one plane.

I have other heli's where the arms are not level at 0 degrees and don't have any phasing probles with multiple stationary flips.

//Dennis.

[terrabit]

Actually ... you're right. The load would come from the same direction regardless of where the pitch is coming from; aile, ele or +/- collective. That does appear to weaken my argument. As long as it's not really sloppy it's probably fine. But dude, I've been flybarless since 2006. I've setup at least a dozen of my own fbl ships as well as others for other people. Aside from the occasional brain fart, I actually do know what I'm talking about. You definitely can get phasing issues from a sloppy swash drver.

[Thunder Fighter]

Yep, I agree sloppy ones can cause phasing issues and we all have brain farts occasionally.

//Dennis.

[raulglider]

microRondo from www.pro-rc.de , still testing...
by mistake flown with 200% sensitivity and crash now repairing.just blades and long ball from blade holders damaged !!!
news coming soon...

[whisperdancer]

Originally Posted by terrabit

Actually ... you're right. The load would come from the same direction regardless of where the pitch is coming from; aile, ele or +/- collective. That does appear to weaken my argument. As long as it's not really sloppy it's probably fine. But dude, I've been flybarless since 2006. I've setup at least a dozen of my own fbl ships as well as others for other people. Aside from the occasional brain fart, I actually do know what I'm talking about. You definitely can get phasing issues from a sloppy swash drver.

Yep. A sloppy driver one will cause movement on the horizontal plane of the swash, leading to phasing. For the guidance, what only matters is (besides no sloop) the vertical movement and constant alignment/distance between the arm and swash balls.
At least in the low FBL head, the arms seem to be tight.
Only complaint about it was that the threads came with some bead dust from the bead blast. I had a hard time to clean it, as it could damage the threads.
But the i2i swash I bought was in the same sittuation...

[byHISgrace]

What settings are you using in your Beastx/Protos combo?

Can anyone else give me their settings to help me get started with my first FBL?

Thanks. Matt

Originally Posted by vs0587

MSH Protos Carbon:
- SAB Blades
- Beastx Microbeast v3
- 3x Futaba S9650
- 1x Futaba S9254
- YGE 60A ESC
- Scorpion 880kV

[vs0587]

Originally Posted by byHISgrace

What settings are you using in your Beastx/Protos combo?

Can anyone else give me their settings to help me get started with my first FBL?

Thanks. Matt

I've done all basic setup correctly, and fly in transmitter mode! ail and ele with 10% of expo and 105% endpoint, rudder 20% expo and 100% endpoint.. Dials 1 and 2 in middle position (never changed); 3rd dial at 11 o'clock with headlock gain red..

I have best performance with very rigid "outdoor TESA tape"..
Not sponge standard tape..

Plus, i balanced tail rotor and locked tail boom brace..

[byHISgrace]

How do you measure the blade pitch on the FBL Protos?

Do you just rough guess the pitch gauge against the horizon?

Are there any more Beastx setup tips or favorite mounting spots?

Thanks. Matt

[mahbouni]

Easy way: http://www.readyheli.com/40001RC-RC-...e_p_37972.html

Cheaper and more accurate way: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=259188

[mic-21]

hi all
which FBL upgrate kit I need to get ,,the First ( no Arms ) or the upgrade just came out ...any advance of one over other .
thanks

[Thunder Fighter]

Only issue with tho older design is the delrin part that hold the rods is expensive due to being machined and can break in a crash, otherwise probably not much in it. I will wait till my current one breaks and then maybe go for the low FBL head and the arms.

//Dennis.

[mic-21]

Originally Posted by Thunder Fighter

Only issue with tho older design is the delrin part that hold the rods is expensive due to being machined and can break in a crash, otherwise probably not much in it. I will wait till my current one breaks and then maybe go for the low FBL head and the arms.

//Dennis.

some said , the Low FBL Head is for Stretch version only

[Thunder Fighter]

Originally Posted by mic-21

some said , the Low FBL Head is for Stretch version only

Yes, I have a stretch, and I think it is the manufacturer that says not to use it on a standard version, so I would normally follow that advice.

//Dennis.

[mic-21]

Originally Posted by Thunder Fighter

Yes, I have a stretch, and I think it is the manufacturer that says not to use it on a standard version, so I would normally follow that advice.

//Dennis.

my are non-stretch ..so i have to keep the the standard Head .it look like Readyheli have the FBL kit that work with the normal head and still use the Arms .

http://www.readyheli.com/MSH51115-Fl...s_p_35626.html

[tacomaster]

Beast x v3
align ds510 16mm ball spacing.
msh head

pot 1 3 ish click from max no pitching FFF or bobbles EVER. i did a forward flip wall at full speed and had no bobble.

running stock beast gain setting on tail as in the red color, 43% on dx8 with futaba s9251 with precomp on low, no kicking and no tail wag what so ever.

i used a digital pitch gauge and go swash perfect. everything is with in .2 degrees on throws.

Im getting 12 collective with 11.1 ish cyclic all blue lights with no binding what so ever.


FLYS AMAZING!

[banditpowdercoat]

BeastX and the original FBL conversion are on it's way to my house as I type this. SHould be rockin this weekend. Good riddance to FB's!!!!

[boltor]

for any SK-720 user, I have just started a thread to discuss SK-720 tuning, setups, etc:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=346138

(similar to the 6HV / SK-720 thread started by Castel).