Rotorworkz New 7.0 Lbs achievable T-600 frame kit

[Charley Stephens]

Originally Posted by TomSardea

Hi,

What servos do we need to use w/your new design? 9650? any other options?
Thanks!!

Tom

Currently Futaba 9650 is my servo of choice I have considered others

[Finless]

BUT to get the performance on 9650's you MUST be 6V... Perfect to use the stock Align regulator!

Nice work Charlie!

Bob

[TomSardea]

ok Thanks Charlie and Bob!

[Gscott]

Is there possibly a list or measurement that you can provide for motors that won't require the canopy to be trimmed. Also what will be included with the frame and what's the target price?

[BoneDoc]

Hitec 5225 will be a great choice also: same size, 10 dollars cheaper, and metal gears. It's only .01 sec slower.

[Charley Stephens]

Bonedoc do you mean 5245

[BoneDoc]

Yep..

[Charley Stephens]

Cool I have been looking at that one. that .01 speed will not be noticed at all I may order up a set to test out

[Charley Stephens]

Originally Posted by Gscott

Is there possibly a list or measurement that you can provide for motors that won't require the canopy to be trimmed. Also what will be included with the frame and what's the target price?

If the stock 600L was approx 5mm shorter it would fit without hitting it is nearly flush now

[rdespins]

Hi Charlie,

Great job on the frame. I've been trying to dream up a way to mount the motor up and use full size servos. Do you think it is possible to so something like Gary Goodrum does on the Raptor frames. The servos are mounted on "ears" like in this photo.



I was thinking a similar thing is possible if a triangle block would be mounted on the frame at the appropriate place. I think it should work if the servos end up right next to the motor. Something like this:



Just tossing around ideas.

Ron

[rdespins]

Why won't my images show, the've worked before.

Ron

[Charley Stephens]

Ron,
Thanks for your comments

I don't own a raptor but if my memory of one is correct the frame is much thinner (at the top) than on the 600 so adding the servo mounts to the side of the frame would put the servos out to far with the direct linkage it requires long servo arms to achieve a full pitch range so your linkage would most likely stick out past the canopy

[Finless]

rdespin... the .jpg needs to be upper case. That is the way they are on your server.

I just fixed your post for you.

Bob

[rdespins]

Thanks Bob =)

Ron

[rdespins]

Another idea I've seen on another heli, is a mounting system for the servos that clamp around the mainshaft, between the middle and upper bearings. I can't find the exact photo to show it built up but here it is disassembled. I know this is getting deep into a redesign, but it's a nice system if implemented correctly.

Ron

[fireup]

I was able to fit standard size servos on my frame design.

[Ticidytoc]

Cool looking frame. Nice head. What does it weigh in at ?

[fireup]

Ya, it's a little heavier. about 7 lb. flying weight, without the canopy.

My next version will be a one piece design (Left/Right) and use less aluminum.

[Finless]

Hey fireup... about time you showed up here and posted

I have flown this heli and it flew well... The head was a little slower than a Trex head but worked well.

Bob

[fireup]

Finless, you got to fly it again. I made quite a few changes sense that first day. It's just as fast as stock Trex now, but still fly a little different though.

I use the longer ball link on the flybar, shorten the lever on the blade grips and decrease the expo. Remeber we had to increase swash travel to 98. I only need about 65 now to get full travel.

I want Ian to fly it to see what it can do and where else I can tune.

This frame can already fit the 8s setup and my ESC is also HV model, so I can't wait to get my hands on a 1910/1Y motor.