Just pulled the trigger on a Helibug 600 conv.

[Doozer]

The list keeps growing. I'll be posting more to the "necessary parts" post on the first page. I'll be adding the tail control linkage rod to that list. This is necessary if you build the kit per the manual. I'm converting an ESP. The linkage rod provided in the ESP kit is too short, and will not work if you mount your tail servo at the front of the frame. If you are going to mount your tail servo to the boom, like the ESP, then you don't need to make this purchase. However, you will need servo line extensions. I was unable to find the linkage rod for sale by itself. It seems you need to order the boom replacements to get the linkage rod. So now I have extra booms.

I went to my LHS to buy a 600N frame hardware package because I wanted the M3 washers and some spare frame screws. I was very surprised to see that they had phillips head screws in the frame pack. When I opened the package and saw the screws I was like "wtf... really?!" I hate using philips head screws. I would have just gone to Ace and bought a bunch of screws if I would have known that was the case. That was disappointing and a waste of money.

Knowing what I know now, If I had this to do over, I'd look for a used 600N airframe that had the metal engine bearing block. I see them for sale all the time. I would have saved money and had spare parts. Oh well, no use complaing... it's done already.

Here's a couple of pics of the completed paint scheme:

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Heli_n_Back

Someone, (sorry, forget who)(and I did this and removed/replaced the pinion 3 times so far), suggested cleaning the pinion threads with a brass wire brush in a dremel. Has worked a treat.

Worked perfectly!
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGEw-MPH2Pc[/ame]

Thanks to Ali for dropping a clutch nut on the pinion before sending it to me. That saved me some money. Great CS with Helibug.

[Doozer]

Here's where I'm at today. I got the head on as well as the bell cranks. The 600ESP bell cranks are different than the 600N. They don't have the built in spacer. They have spacers that come with the kit, but those proved to be too big. I could have filed them down but instead fab'd up some of my own with nylon spacers I bought at Ace Hardware.



There was a lot of taking them off, filing with a Dremel sanding disc then re-installing. If they are too large, the bearings will feel notchy. Once you get them the right size they smooth out.


The inside diameter was a bit small for the control shaft, so I had to drill them out with a 7/32 bit. This makes them quite thin so be careful if you use this method. If you can find nylon spacers with a 7/32 or 1/4 inside diameter that would be better, but it was not to hard to open these up if you're careful. You only need one, but I bought two in case I screwed one up. Twenty five cents saved having to buy new bell cranks. Also, I was abel to use the original control shaft from the ESP. If you use the nitro control shaft, your spacers will have to be bigger, but still smaller than the metal ones that come with the ESP.

This is where I'm at for the moment. No electronics yet.

[Doozer]

I'm almost ready! I'm kind of nervous. This has been such a fun build and I want a maiden to go well. Is the throw on the throttle really that small or have I done something wrong? I had to adjust the travel on the servo quite a bit. I was also setting up my radio (X9303), I was setting up my starting normal throttle curve per the sticky. I have a 7 point curve and for Normal mode I left Low at zero and 2 at 20 and just inhibited "1." So it looks like this 0, inh, 20, 22.5, 25, 30, 100.

I don't have a Gov yet. I was thinking of getting a rev limiter for overspeeding since I'm not a 3D pilot. I like loops, rolls and flips, but not the chaos of 3D. I PLAN for My fuel to be 87 from the pump, and lawnboy ashless for the first gallon at a 25:1, then switching to blue marble. I'll be closing the needles then reopening both to 1 3/8 turns. Am I forgetting or am I overlooking anything?

[Azalin]

Doozer what carb is on the engine?

[fastflyer20]

I am new to gassers too, but would highly recommend you have a governor installed before you fly. I started with the same throttle curves as you are using and the HS was too low, as I leaned out the engine, HS was too high, I just flipped a switch to turn on the gov to keep from overspeeding until I could land and adjust the curve.

Just in case you don't know, the curve is a starting point only, you have to tach the engine and adjust the curve to hold the HS you want at the different points on the curve. So a tach is mandatory to manually set up a throttle curve correctly and as you adjust the carb, the throttle curve may change. 3D or just cruising around, a governor make it easy, just set the HS you want and the gov does all of the hard work!

Except for spooling up, I use the governor all of the time now.

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Azalyn

Doozer what carb is on the engine?

Azalyn - Walbro WT-603B. Its the stock carb that came with the engine (g230rc).


Fast, I'm hearing you on the gov, and I plan on having one, I was just thinking that I won't be doing much during the break-in so I wouldn't need it right away.

On a side note, I wanted to say thanks to the regulars here. This is as much your build as it is mine, because I spent many hours pouring over your information that you've posted in this forum. I'm a visual kind of guy ... a picture is worth a thousand words, so I'm extremely thankful to those that have taken the time to post pictures and vidoes. Keep them coming, people like me enjoy them and find them valuable

.

[Doozer]

You can add the linkage rods from the ESP to the list. Even though I already have them listed, I don't have them listed for the right reasons. You need to replace all of them except the elevator servo linkage... those are fine. You'll need nitro linkage for aileron, pitch, tail control arm to servo, and tail control arm to pitch slider. Also you'll need to pick up a linkage rod that's long enough for the throttle. I was lucky and had a spare Frenzy linkage rod and used it.

Mr. Shurley, your linkage lengths were pretty much spot on. Thank you! However, because the elevator bell crank is somewhat different in the ESP I couldn't use 21 mm but 20mm was perfect. The only true donor parts from the ESP were the boom, tail rotor case / assembly, the head, cyclic bell cranks, control shaft, horizontal and vertical tail fins, and boom support. In order to make the cyclic bell cranks work I had to fab up spacers or else I would have had to buy those too. So converting an ESP is not an optimal choice. It can be done, but you'll pay for it. Probably more than picking up a used nitro airframe. I'll post more pics when I get it complete... which should be tonight, I just have to clean up my wires.

[Doozer]

Done with the build. I'm going to try to get a little air time tomorrow. It's supposed to be in the 100's tomorrow but get a little cooler sunday, monday, tuesday. If it's too hot, I'll wait.

Here's some pics:





I decided to put my throttle servo where I could get a fair shot at 90. I opted to move the gas tank forward about 1/2 inch and ran the fuel lines under the servo. I understand the CG reasons for keeping it close to the middle, but i'm not sure I'll notice much. I'm thinking about a bigger tank while I break the engine in.

[fastflyer20]

Looks great!
To fit a 10 oz tank, I had to mount my servo in the high position and put an extension on the ball/carb to get a reasonable angle on the throttle arm. Finally after break in and getting the carb tweeked, it will fly around 12 min.

Is the BEC just for the tail? Just checking because the 10 amp CC BEC is not enough to power this heli, A friend had major problems with a T550e and the CC 10 amp BEC.

[Doozer]

I have that BEC on my Frenzy 50 and My Hirobo Evo 50, no issues yet.... Well, it seems that if I use velcro on them, they won't work, that's the only issue. I've tried them several times with and without velcro, and ALWAYS when I mount them with velcro, they wont work. Don't know why, can't explain it. I have the Align BEC that came with the kit, maybe I should use that..

Edit: ok... just read some sketchy stuff about this BEC. People with far better tools than me have tested it and claim it can cause brown outs. Also, I'm using it with a JR/Spektrum rx and I guess there's an issue there as well. Don't care how true it is, $25 is not worth the risk of bringing this heli down. Consider it swapped. Thanks for the heads up Fast

[fastflyer20]

No problem, they thought it would be fine on a 550 that would demand less than yours and I saw it brown out! It is fine on a 500 and below.

Many choices for power, if you have 6v capable cyclic servos, keep the BEC if you need it for a 5v tail and get a LiFe and run unregulated to reduce components and decrease possible failures. These gassers vibrate, a very different world than electric or nitro.

What servos are you using?

BTW - Last weekend my gasser went down, brand new tail clamp, new bolts, new lock nuts, all 4 bolts vibrated loose and the tail dropped out. Now I have longer bolts and double lock nuts anywhere I could on the tail.

[Doozer]

Hyperion 20UMD's on the cyclic, DS650 on the tail, Fut 3152 on the the throttle. The UMD is not the worlds fastest servo, but I don't need speedy servos. I'm no Bobby Watts! I'll probably swithch up to all JR's after break in. I've flown Hyperions in everything I have built, and I've only lost one due to a crash. Going to run them @ 6V. I'll also be breaking this in with woodies. I wont be flying with crushing RPMs during break in, so if something goes wrong that's one less expense I'll have to cover.

Nice tip on the bolts. I'll stay on guard.

[roboto65]

I have a 600N frame coming and I am planning on doing the gas conversion cannot wait have read all the posts well almost LOL.

Anyhow Doozer awesome paint job may have to give that a go thanks for the write up on how to paint that..

[Doozer]

Thanks roboto,

Google Ed Hubbs, Mike Lavallee.... don't buy their templates, you don't need them because you can make your own. But those videos will help. If you don't already have an airbrush, that was done with a 15 dollar HF special (central pnematic) . The compressor is the central pneumatic 1/8 hp (for airbrushing). It gets pretty hot quick but it hasn't quit on me yet. It's $50 ($70 with two year replacement plan). Paints will run you about $15 dollars but that's enough paint to paint many many canopies. Just remember to strain the paint through some old (or new if you don't care) nylon socks.

I've got an engine question about the choke. Once it's started should I completely close it? Because my engine dies when I do.

[Doozer]

Nevermind... figured out what I was doing wrong. Should have checked the manual. I'm a dummy

[Doozer]

OK, here's me and my son cranking it up for the first time. Man this was a fun build!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsC3nwM14yE[/ame]

[Doozer]

Ok... lost power on spool up then it wouldn't start again. Pulled the plug and it was wet. I tried to clean it and see if it would fire again but no dice. I set the needles up per the general concensus of the collective ... @ 1 3/8 each. I'm running Lawnboy Ashless at a ratio of 5 oz to a gallon of 87 octane gas. The engine is a g230rc. I pulled the exhaust off and the piston looks shiney new with no marks. Suggestions ... thoughts ... ??

I'm thinking lean it a hair, but if thats wrong I don't know what else could be the issue. Going to the hardware store to pick up some spare plugs in the morning. Any suggestions on plugs?

[Azalin]

I had the same problem. Was using about 22:1 95 octane gas and semi synthetic. When i leaned the needles from 1 3/4 H 1 2/4 L to both 1 3/8, then the heli was starting to hover.

My current problem is loosing power on pumping and inverted hovering. Dunno why but i don't like it. Current needle setting is 1.5 turns on H and 1 1/4 L. Fully synth. oil + 95 octane gasoline 35:1 mix. 990 carb and 270RC

[fastflyer20]

Doozer - All carbs/engines end up adjusted to different setting. G290RC (same carb spec as other RC's) my L is @ 1 1/8, H @ 1 5/8

Try to start it without choke or prime, or only partial choke. I think you are flooding it trying to start it. Turn up the idle too. The L screw makes a hugh difference in idle speed.

Now with some run time on mine, I never need prime, it starts on 1/2 choke on first or second pull. If you can top start it, that may be the easiest until you get some run time on it. I would open the H needle to 1 1/2 at a min. These will run pig rich, they just don't make power. Never seen a engine seize running rich!