Build Thread: CC's Xtreme Novus 125CP FBL

[Ampdraw]

Great thead CC.
You know it's good when there are a tonne of views and very little comments. Means you're comprehensive....which you most certainly are.

Pinions: These are nice. Far better than what you can buy from most vendors.
http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/index.php/cat/c29_M0-25.html

Mo.25, width 2mm and brass and the id for the motor shaft.........1.5mm HPO8??

Amp

[hjns]

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

Great thead CC.
You know it's good when there are a tonne of views and very little comments. Means you're comprehensive....which you most certainly are.

Pinions: These are nice. Far better than what you can buy from most vendors.
http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/index.php/cat/c29_M0-25.html

Mo.25, width 2mm and brass and the id for the motor shaft.........1.5mm HPO8??

Amp

+1. Nice and comprehensive thread!

Mod 0.25, Width 2.0mm Brass, and 1.5mm shaft (D = drill hole).

[Jeff_Barrett]

Thanks, guys.

I'll also check that site out this evening. For the time being, I put the optional 14T that was shipped with the heli on the HP.

Some photos (maybe a vid?) to follow tonite on balancing...

[hjns]

I just fit the 16T. Flies awesome. Still need to do some measurements, though.

After I fit the ABEC bearings, I had to file a part of the top of the main gear, in order to get a good mesh with my 11T Wolfgear. Worth it, but still. The original (bad) Xtreme bearings obviously did not come out of the frame that much, which is why I had a good mesh previously.

[Jeff_Barrett]

Which bearings did you use on the bottom block? 2x6x3?

If so, you could try the 2x6x2.5 in the future. It fits flush to the top of the bearing block.

[Ampdraw]

The 11t pinion would mean the main gear has to be closer to the bearing block. You could also shim the gear forward a little on the tail shaft as they are conical. Maybe a sliver from the ink tube of a ballpoint pen. Only need less than 1mm at a guess.

Amp

[Jeff_Barrett]

Purpose:
Vibrations pose a problem for all sizes of helis, big or small. They can affect your heli negatively in a number of ways, and it's a constant battle to track them down and eliminate them.

One area that we overlook more often than not, is the outrunner itself. It's not uncommon to have poorly balanced bell housing on a brushless outrunner, which can cause some pretty serious vibrations.

We balance our rotor blades, so why not our motors??

Tools / Items Required:
- "Third hand" vise with alligator clips is ideal.
- Marker with a fine point
- Tape (scotch etc)
- CA Glue (optional)
- Hobby knife / scissors

How to balance your motor:
First, let's get everything ready ... remove your main shaft / gear so that the outrunner can run freely and that it's exposed. This will allow you isolate the motor and detect vibrations only coming from it alone.

Set your heli up so that it is held by one of the alligator clips. Place the marker in the other clip with the tip of the marker resting close to the bell of the motor.



Plug your system in and power it on. Throttle up and listen to the motor ... feel the frame and the vibrations that the motor is putting out. Chances are, if it wasn't clipped in, it would be dancing on the table.

Next, hold the frame in place by applying firm down pressure on the frame so that it doesn't move or vibrate on the table when you throttle up. With your free hand, apply 1/2 to 3/4 of your throttle. You should still be holding the heli down so that it doesn't move.

Again, with your free hand, gently move the marker forward a tiny amount at a time. Watch the bell closely ... when you see a line start to form, hold the marker steady for a moment without advancing it any further, then pull it away and shut the throttle down.



Inspect the bell. If you did it right, you will see a line, but it shouldn't go all the way around the bell ....





You will see that one are the marker did not touch.... this indicates the lighter side of the bell housing. We can add weight to this side, or remove weight from the heavy side. It's easier to add material than remove it.

You will want to add some scotch tape to the bell where the line is not present. You may need to cut the tape to size in order to fit the tiny bell.



You may want to apply a little CA around the edges of the tape so that it doesn't peel off in use. A bit of tape flapping around can sound pretty scary, or even stop your motor if it grabs good enough.

Finally, power on and throttle up again .. you should notice a marked improvement. You can tweak as much as you like... the better it's balanced, the less vibrations and more efficient it will run.

Both you and your gyro will be happy for it.

[Brett74]

Jees Crazy, you sure are one clever dude !
On another subject, after our little chats and reading this thread I have ordered a V120D02, the 2S setup you recomended, some batteries, the Turnigy Virtual Flybar, and the Orange "Spektrum" RX, the Extreme frame and a few other bits and bobs.
As soon as it all arrives I will get busy and give you all a full report on how it all goes.
You give a lot to this comunity, a true Helifreak !

[Jeff_Barrett]

LOL!

Well, I owe the balancing idea to the time spent around my fathers machine shop when he had it. They balanced driveshafts in a similar manner.

Let us know when it all arrives. I'm interested to see how that Turnigy Virtual Flybar 600 works out. You'll have to strip the case for weight savings and a decent fit under the canopy.

I'm waiting for HK to get the OrangeRX satellites back in stock.... if they don't have it soon, I'll just get the Spektrum one locally.

[Brett74]

This the one I got and they are in stock now .
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12586

[Jeff_Barrett]

Yah, I'm after the remote satellite. Less wires as you only need one cable plugged into the uRondo compared to several (one for each servo + gyro + gyro gain).

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=13418

[Jeff_Barrett]

.... 779 hits so far. Wow!

I'm kind of stalled out right now while I'm waiting for the uRondo to arrive. I did test the new 2S motor and it screams. Can't wait to give it a proper testing ... I'm starting to go into withdrawal from not flying this unit in so long.

[Jeff_Barrett]

Ok, so my Hyperion cells showed up today. I'll have to go get some connectors and build my battery packs. I'll do a tutorial on it in this thread....

[Ampdraw]

This thread and all it's pics is getting damn close to heli porn!

Going to do the 5V to 4.2V drop down on my helis...see if the servos last to infinity and beyond!

Edit: My local elec supply has 1N4004 diodes but not the 001's.

I am of the understanding that the 4004 has a larger operational voltage range...but are there any negatives...larger, heavier etc?
Here's the data sheet from the supplier:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/1N4004.pdf
Nothing on weight or Voltage drop down.

My 4g3 runs on 5.06V and the g6 5V....want to run 4.2 - 4.3. Only had two servos do their dance, one in the g6 and one in the g3. The issue is jittery movement especially as a certain horn position. I have revived them a couple of times with contact cleaner. Do you think the diode mod with overcome this happening....seems pot related to me rather than voltage.

Amp

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

This thread and all it's pics is getting damn close to heli porn!

Going to do the 5V to 4.2V drop down on my helis...see if the servos last to infinity and beyond!

LMAO!!! Let me know how the mod goes... it's about as easy as they get.

The rest of my items should be here any time. These cells were one of the last things I ordered, and they're of the first to arrive!

[nieda113]

Hi,
using diodes to reduce the voltage to save the little walkera servos is a good idea.
but i recommend to use for NXXXX diode instead of a larger one in the positve wire comming from the esc. Since all elektronics are rated to a max of 6V its seems from an energy saving point to be better to use four smaller 1 amp rated diodes in the plus wire of each servo. The voltage drop on the large diode cause more heat developed because all elektonics like receiver and or Rondo, or if u use a differnet setup a gyro, too.its only a small amount but its not deniable.
Any comments?
Bye Jv

[hjns]

The SAVA 2.3 interface is quite expensive. However, it will not only downregulate the voltage of the BEC from 5V to 3.7V, but also increase the output signal of the RX independently of input voltage (starting from 2V) to a fixed voltage to fit the ESC (whether this is the XP series or the YGE series).

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by nieda113

but i recommend to use for NXXXX diode instead of a larger one in the positve wire comming from the esc.

Hey Nieda .. if you read through this entire thread, you'll have noted on Post #4 that I recommend an 1N4001, and that I've installed it on the positive lead running from the ESC to the RX.

Yes, you can add 4 individual diodes - but it's unecessary in this small application. All we're doing is reducing voltage just enough to protect the servos.

[Ampdraw]

CC can you have a look at my post above specifically the edit.

Amp

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

Edit: My local elec supply has 1N4004 diodes but not the 001's.

I am of the understanding that the 4004 has a larger operational voltage range...but are there any negatives...larger, heavier etc?

The issue is jittery movement especially as a certain horn position. I have revived them a couple of times with contact cleaner. Do you think the diode mod with overcome this happening....seems pot related to me rather than voltage.

1N4004 will give the same forward voltage drop (~0.7v) as a 1N4001. The only difference, as you have already pointed out, is the operating voltage is higher. The diode may be slighter longer / wider in size, but as you can see from the drawing in the specs, it's negligible.

I think you may have hit the nail on the head with regards to the jitters. If cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner solves the problem .. it sounds less likely to be voltage related.

Does the pot look dirty when you look at it under a magnifier? oxidized?

Another possibility ... static discharge. Usually only affects belt driven tail helis though.