Correct tuning procedure

[dgunawan]

It appears that this tuning procedure by the OP is for tuning the parameters in the RIGID tab.

What about tuning the parameters in the Tail Gyro tab?

[jrwalte]

Originally Posted by dgunawan

It appears that this tuning procedure by the OP is for tuning the parameters in the RIGID tab.

What about tuning the parameters in the Tail Gyro tab?

I'm thinking the same thing. This is very nice guide for cyclic tuning, but there is no tail tuning tips.

And I'd assume you'd want your tail tuned properly and working right before doing this cyclic tuning, as a bad tuned tail could induce cyclic wobble.

[KSHeli]

Originally Posted by jrwalte

I'm thinking the same thing. This is very nice guide for cyclic tuning, but there is no tail tuning tips.

And I'd assume you'd want your tail tuned properly and working right before doing this cyclic tuning, as a bad tuned tail could induce cyclic wobble.

In talks with Pavel at IRCHA in 2013, stated that getting the tail tuned out 1st can cause problems tuning the head properly, while tuning the head first could help stabilize the tail, atleast that's what he had found from all his tuning experience. He told me tune the head, unless the tail was totally out and absolutely wouldn't hold, but not try to fine tune until after the head is tuned. Just follow his procedure first.

[jrwalte]

Good to know.

As stated, having a tail section at the end after the cyclic would help (and the beginning note to at least get gain close to holding, as you mention). There are so many different FBL units and different ways to tune, it is important to clearly state how to tune and leave nothing to ambiguity, because people will apply what they know about other units to this one and it could be completely wrong.

[HeliWobbles]

It seams as though the sequence of checks and adjustments is vital to keeping your sanity in tuning the myriad of variables.

I have never seen one but clearly a flow chart is what is required. Surely the testers who are experienced at setting up many models use some sort of routine from start-to-finish to efficiently arrive at a dialed-in model.

Has anyone got such a chart?
Failing that, would it be too much to ask Captron for one?
Thanks.
Ted

[jrwalte]

Flow chart would be great, considering i make them all the time and understand them.

[dgunawan]

Someone should have some experience with the tail setup. Hope he can share that with us.

[jrwalte]

Just finished following this guide to tune my Mostro. I've never been able to tune this nicely before and it's feeling the best on my Mostro, having also tried Spirit and BX. The tail didn't even need anything except to lower the gain because it was over compensating on fast decent.

The big difference is I'd always try to get highest head gain possible in the past, thinking this would make center more crisp. This time I dropped it low as I could without inducing dolphin. And by increasing initial response I'm able to get more crisp than I'd like without inducing any wobbles.

Thanks for this new guide. It was much easier to follow, too.

[Blackline]

i am having a terrible time trying to get a bobble out of the tail. goblin 500, idle up 1 seems to do ok, when I got to idle up 2 or 3 the tail starts bobbling up and down, idle up 2 does it then idle up 3 does it worse. its kind of a slow bobble up and down. I have tried playing with gain, p portion, d portion elevator filter, but I am kind of lost. any help would be much appreciated. Thank You.

[guyguerra]

Originally Posted by jrwalte

Just finished following this guide to tune my Mostro. I've never been able to tune this nicely before and it's feeling the best on my Mostro, having also tried Spirit and BX. The tail didn't even need anything except to lower the gain because it was over compensating on fast decent.

I am going to setup my Mostro this weekend. I normally use the defaults, and some adjustments noted in this thread. I've setup up 6 Helis and all have done great. I've never even used the real time tuning. Are there any specific settings on the Mostro that are outside the defaults? Did you use any real time tuning?
Thanks,
Guy

[Dennis Everett]

Originally Posted by Helmet

For those of you having trouble downloading the preset files, the preset values for page 5 and 6 are:

5. Tail Gyro
Yaw rate - 10
Yaw expo - 0
Delay - 4
P-gain - 16
Hold Power - Expert
Revo Mix - 0
Coll.Pitch range - symmetric

6. Rigid
Gain Aileron - 16
Gain Elevator - 13
Agility - 12
Initial response - 3
Elevator filter - 3 (for 450-500 the preset is 4)
P-portion - 45
D-portion for elevator - 10
Attitude hold range - 9
Decay rate - 4


The only difference I have found between the 450-500 and 550-800 preset files are the Elevator filter (as mentioned in red).

got it

[guyguerra]

I have a question that maybe Popo or someone else can help with. When I'm doing rainbows the tail will not stay straight, it moves to the left a little bit which makes the rainbow sloppy, causing me to work the rudder to try to keep the rainbows straight. I don't know if it's in the demon settings. I have ruled out my fingers on the rudder. Is there an adjustment that can correct this? It does this on all six of my Helis, though I am using my Mostro more than the others right now. I have been using my Mostro the most, and it seems to be worse than the others. I am using 115mm tail blades with 720 main blades, and have dialed down the gyro gain to 55 which works well in all other types of flight.
Thanks,
Guy

[jrwalte]

If your rudder is over shooting (against the torque as if applying right rudder) try lowering the tail gain. I've found that has stopped over shooting for me.

In the past i always increased tail gain to max to just below oscillation and would have over shoots. Had a buddy suggest to lower gain to get rid of it and it worked.

[guyguerra]

Originally Posted by jrwalte

If your rudder is over shooting (against the torque as if applying right rudder) try lowering the tail gain. I've found that has stopped over shooting for me.

In the past i always increased tail gain to max to just below oscillation and would have over shoots. Had a buddy suggest to lower gain to get rid of it and it worked.

I'll do that. I had to lower the gain substantially when I put the 115's on, from 65 to 45, and might have been hesitant to go lower. I'll check it out and post the results here.

[HauLo]

Anybody got any idea how to reverse correction direction on the swash? At the end of the setup it said to check for compensations and not to fly it if they are wrong(lol) but didn't give me a way to change it, I think im loosing my mind!! lol

Great work btw!

Thanks!

[Puttputt maru]

Look under tab #4 MIXER this is the page to adjust the swash directions

[HauLo]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!! S0o0o.. I found out that correction direction is controlled by your mounting positioning!!

You guys are awesome

[PassinThru]

Found the posted settings very time saving 😅

[SHYguy]

Tried it for the first time yesterday in an OXY3. Slight cyclic wobble but no biggie. Amazed by rescue - boy that was good! Never got that to work with the iKON.

Do I use 450 settings for 300 size?

[brancoli]

Hi everybody

Any idea? I find my elevator servo (120ccpm elevator at the back) always runs hotter?
Anything relate to Demon tuning?
Btw, they are 3 Futaba 172sv servos on DiaboloS.
I find the rear servo hotter while maiden, hovering it naked without fuse.

Branco