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Gasser Helicopters Gasser Specific Discussion |
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11-11-2014, 02:22 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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Good to hear that. Thanks.
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Suat Trex 700 Gasser FBL | HeliBug HB7-RC 17T | Silverline V-Bar| TRM VX290TT | SG | RJX Gas muffler (modded) Trex 600 Gasser FBL | HeliXHeli conv. | OS GT15HZ | iKon | Homemade onboard generator |
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11-11-2014, 11:43 PM | #23 (permalink) |
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I believe Carey also has some time on these retainers, Doug has them as well but I don't think he has started running in his GT15HZ. Dennis' retainers will be soon making their way to germany, pulling him back towards the dark side
So collectively I think we should get some solid data. I'll be damn surprised if one falls out, given it was properly installed. I have really spent some time on each retainer to take a really close look if it's properly seated. On the front retainer, I will actually install the wrist pin and put some firm pressure on the back of the retainer to make sure it's seated. As well as take a pick and press firmly from the ID of the retainer radially outwards into the groove. On the rear retainer, I have a set of tweezers with outward bent tips to grab the ID of the wrist pin in order to pull out firmly against the retainer. As well as seat the retainer with a pick against the groove. Spend the time to do it right. A little time spent here will go a long way to ensure you have a properly built motor.
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11-12-2014, 02:46 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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Yes and I will run it this time in my T-Rex 700 Nitro to test for reliability. As I converted my T-Rex 630 to electric and sold it (cause I was so frustrated) I would need a complete new rotorhead and tail untit to bring it to life again. I am willing to do that but first I need to know if it is reliable with the spiral retainers. After break in I am going to run it again at 15-15.500RPM with the hatori pipe cause this is the point where this engine makes fun to me. I think it plays a key role at which RPM you operate that engine. As far as I heard al the guys not having any issues whith the stock retainers are running at much lower RPMs. And thats my personal experience as well, I lost most of my retainers shortly after increasing RPM and pushing the engine harder. So at what RPMs are you running your engines? regards Dennis
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11-12-2014, 03:52 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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I asked the same question to Carey. He keep running his engine at 16k. I'll install my clips soon as I get them and try to go up to 15.5k.
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Suat Trex 700 Gasser FBL | HeliBug HB7-RC 17T | Silverline V-Bar| TRM VX290TT | SG | RJX Gas muffler (modded) Trex 600 Gasser FBL | HeliXHeli conv. | OS GT15HZ | iKon | Homemade onboard generator |
11-12-2014, 11:01 AM | #26 (permalink) |
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I've been running my Trex 600 at 2100 on the head that's roughly 16,200 rpm at the crank.
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11-15-2014, 03:15 PM | #27 (permalink) |
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My stock of retainers is depleted, if any of you guys need any retainers contact Carey Shurley he will be able to get you hooked up.
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11-24-2014, 06:43 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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OK I got my retainers from Carey (Thanks). So how to install these?
Edit: Just noticed the installation guide in the first post.
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Suat Trex 700 Gasser FBL | HeliBug HB7-RC 17T | Silverline V-Bar| TRM VX290TT | SG | RJX Gas muffler (modded) Trex 600 Gasser FBL | HeliXHeli conv. | OS GT15HZ | iKon | Homemade onboard generator |
12-01-2014, 05:44 AM | #29 (permalink) |
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More I read this thread more I am convinced that the problem is not the retainer but their groove: it is so tiny that any kind of retainer clip will get out sooner or later. Hope to be wrong!
My solution (remember without clips retainer) still at running in, with two deposit completes. We will see... |
12-15-2014, 06:02 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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I was studying the exploded view of the OS GF30 4 stroke gasser engine.
The piston pin seems rather unique. It looks to have a non-metallic insert on one end while the opposite end uses a conventional circlip. Interesting! The exploded view is available from this page: http://www.worldhobbies.com/product/...ef_cat_id=AAAA Piston pin: http://www.worldhobbies.com/product/4A006000_item.html Last edited by brw0513; 12-15-2014 at 06:05 AM.. Reason: Spelling and bad link. |
12-16-2014, 12:17 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Makes it a lot easier to assemble the motor, no fiddling about with the circlip through the hole thing. I have had a few YS four stroke nitro plank engines and they have a non metallic piston pin retainer on both ends of the pin but they run at least 20% oil content in the fuel and also run a bit cooler than a gasser. Did wonder if it would work on a gasser motor though and obviously it does according to OS but it's a four stroke with a plain liner, no porting in it to foul the end of the retainer. Have also used this method on full size turbocharged four cylinder motorcycle engines, was back in the early eighties and if my memory is working it is telling me the material I used was some sort of PTFE bar stock.
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12-21-2014, 05:36 AM | #32 (permalink) |
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Another fuel tank more (5 1/2 in total) and without issues... except at tunning carb and Futaba Governor.
I had to disconnect it at the end, didn´t work at all, I think because of ...wrong needles tunning? Can´t explain but, with little needdle adjustment, it was working well at more than 50% throttle open and now stops like carburettor flooded. I'll come back to standard factory setting and begin again |
12-25-2014, 04:43 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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That's interesting. I have found it pretty easy to foul the plug during the break in process, I always bring 99% iso alcohol to clean the plug. After break in and the needles are set my 600 has been completely reliable. What version are you running? And did you flip the carb?
That's cool your swaged idea is working, keep us posted! 3 month update: I was able to get a little over 2 gallons through the 600 motor, and half a gallon through the 90 class motor over the last three months. The 600 has been flawless since the spiral retainers have been installed. I think the 90 has a leaky carb, but I'm still ruling out other things, these engines seem to be finicky during the break in process. But that may be in my part due to my reluctance to lean the motors out. The last time I went out I flew the 600 at 2200 on the head for a full tank (14min). With a ratio of 7.73 that's ~17k at the crank. I'm going to start running both my 15HZ's at 17k to see how it impacts reliability.
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12-25-2014, 05:33 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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Carey Shurley Proprietor - Gas Powered Helicopters |
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12-26-2014, 05:11 PM | #35 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
It definitely flies much better at 2200.
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12-26-2014, 05:32 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
How are you getting your GTHZ engines to run at 17,000rpm - are you using a Hatori 3D pipe? |
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12-26-2014, 05:48 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I'm running the OS Boost pipe on the 600 currently, and the Hatori on the N7. The OS pipe doesn't pull much more past ~15k, but it does recover better at 17k, but that's probably due to blade inertia rather than power. The Hatori pipe pulls well into 17k. The 600 version is bone stock with spiral retainers. The 90 version has a set of Boca ceramic bearings and spiral retainers, I also yanked the choke off the carb.
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12-31-2014, 10:10 AM | #38 (permalink) | ||||
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Hi together,
I am back in business again with the GT15HZ. Thanks to mitsudriver! I got some spiral retainers from him and they are installed now. They went in easily, took about two to tree minutes to install them. Meanwhile I have 7,2 liters through the engine and it is performing very well. I ran it in with stock needle setting about 4 liters and then I started to increase RPM and leaned it slowly. The last three tanks I flew at 1950 on the head which makes 16k on the crank. And I really pushed it. Even in a 700 size heli it is performing not to bad. Temperatures at about 135°C when I really load the engine. Outside temperatures are around freezing. I am trying to make a video when the weather becomes better and my cameraman is back from vacation. There are not many videos out whith the GT15HZ flying 3D in a 700 sized heli cause it is a challange. But with the hatori pipe it is much better than with the OS pipe. It really pulls much more. You can compare my old video with the OS pipe one and a half years ago:
with that video with the hatori pipe:
I would say my heli NOW performes about the same as in this video from the japanese guy and I pushed it about the same way he did. As sayed before, for three tanks (600ml) which gives about 20min. flying time per tank with this kind of flying. So now 1h flying time with 16k and engine still alive . If it is still alive after 15liters I will but it back into my T-Rex 630 heli (HeliX heli conversion) and it really will become a powerhouse .
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12-31-2014, 10:19 AM | #39 (permalink) |
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And by the way I found a way for me to fly this engine whith just a single batterie without any interferences. I just put an HF-filter into the supply line of the EI. And the EI is grounded now. According my vbar log no issues any more (and there have been a lot of issues before)!!
Happy new year to you all guys!! Dennis
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12-31-2014, 11:48 AM | #40 (permalink) |
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I'm glad to hear the motor is performing as it should, keep us posted
Now if we can only figure out how to squeeze more power or of it.
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