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Titan X50 Thunder Tiger Titan X50 Helicopters


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Old 03-04-2012, 09:18 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Nice job, Kou. Don't waste too much fuel hovering for break-in. After say four tanks, start to lean it out a little and do some mild climb-outs to build some heat into the engine and help seat the ring. Once you get the mixture leaned out a little and its running smoother, you can start feeling out the tail and raising the gain.

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Old 03-04-2012, 10:11 AM   #122 (permalink)
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I wasn't too sure about the gyro gain. It's not that bad right now, i might add 2-3 ticks up. depends on whether there was some slight wave of wind... Needs tinkering a little indeed.
Blades i had loose i know about it. I tightened it with 2 pliers as i forgot 3mm allen driver at home .

Tip is tricky... I fixed it with cable ties on next flights (ripped one cable tie in half because i simply pulled it right too much ). 3 i don't know how to fit them there... Metal tip seems to be too short to me for 3 cable ties but i will see what can i do...

As for break in and stuff... I try to figure out figure 8's on small one. Now i don't think i will go into this with big one yet so wasting nitro is arguable... I will try to move into curves for sure (and i fact i did) but you know... new machine so i will be quite cautious... So i flew about 2-3 tanks today so i think after like 2 more i will go one half twist to lean on needle.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:20 AM   #123 (permalink)
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No matter the type of flying you're doing, you still need to place a load on the engine in order to build heat and seat the ring. I don't know of your particular engine, so I can't advise on how much to turn the needle, just make sure you don't go too lean.

Regarding break-in, no amount of hovering or easy flying is going to build sufficient combustion chamber pressure for a good seating of the ring. That's why I mentioned mild climb-outs. They don't have to be full pitch and don't have to go too high. They just need to place a load on the motor so the carb opens up. More air and fuel = higher CC pressure. If you're just running on curves, you'll need to make sure your throttle curve is set to increase throttle to the amount you want.

If using a governor, obviously it will take care of throttle for you.

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Old 03-05-2012, 09:37 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Speaking of governor... Where do you guys mount your governors? I am trying to figure out some good spot but it's hard to find enough space... Aerospire is quite big...
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Outstanding!
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:16 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KouDy View Post
Speaking of governor... Where do you guys mount your governors? I am trying to figure out some good spot but it's hard to find enough space... Aerospire is quite big...
Well, I'm using the RevLimiter in the AR7100R so I didn't need to look for a special spot. There isn't a whole lot of room on this heli for electronics.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:59 PM   #127 (permalink)
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I think mine will likely end up on battery tray from below or some weird place like that. I am still waiting for delivery man to come with my packages. One of them includes sensor for Aerospire so didn't mount it yet. Even if i mount it i am thinking of switching governor to inhibited as i just hover anyway but i will see about that.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:25 PM   #128 (permalink)
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you can have it active in idle 1 and 2 but leave it of in normal mode as far as i know never used a Aerospire but its one of the best out there ,think bob did a video on it , i use the ATG ,getting a X50 TT in a week and im sure this build thread will come in handy , very nice thread.
just want to get some thing this year that not as stressful as the srimok and the x50 fits the bill just right
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:39 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Oh yea i saw Bobs video on Aerospire. I will see about settings later... So far it seems postman will not arrive again...

Only my pleasure if you find something useful for you in this build thread

And to call off radio settings, as everyone has different radio, i after all didn't go too deep in that question as you could see. I don't think it's needed. If anyone has question about Futaba 10C i can chime in with some hint hopefully.

@Bob : Do you think i should create clean topic with only my posts (a little modified texts so they make sense) for build thread and then you lock it so everyone can post here but the one will stay clean?
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:40 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Kou,

If you want to, go ahead and create a new thread for your build and lock it. Then you can PM me with which posts you would like copied to that thread. Just tell me which post numbers, I assume they will be all the ones with pics and such.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:50 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Ok i will create "empty topic" and close it and then PM you the post numbers...

Now to one stupid question about swash...
Today my pitch gauge arrived and putting it on and measuring the pitch on middle stick, i am getting -5 degrees (heli would descend).
I am almost certain i should move somevalue in Swash AFR menu on my radio.
Right now i have :
Aile : -50%
Elev : +50%
Pitc : -50%

Which one(s) do i need to move in order to get blades to 0 degrees on middle stick?

Yes i have moved pitch curve to linear for this setting.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:54 AM   #132 (permalink)
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You wouldn't adjust anything in Swash mix. A mechanical adjustment is needed to equal out the pitch range. Once you have zero at mid stick, then you can adjust Pitc: to increase or decrease the overall range.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:04 AM   #133 (permalink)
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I see. In that case i will have to adjust some links. There is elevator arm which cannot be adjusted. That leads me to adjusting 2 links going from swashplate to the mixing levers on the seesaw hub.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:14 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Yes, the elevator arm sets the swash height. So the linkages in the head need to be adjusted for zero degrees while still maintaining mixing arms level/proper orientation.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:35 AM   #135 (permalink)
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So i went and installed governor. Here are some photos from the work.

First you need to prepare sensor. Place it over the bracket you are going to use and pull piece of heatshrink over both. Now bend it the way i have in the picture. Writting on the chip of the sensor will go up facing the fan.
Do NOT bend just the sensor. I did that on my first sensor and had to replace it because side wires snapped off it. Sensor will be over the bracket edge like on the photo. When you have it bent, heatshrink the tie and place cable tie over whole assembly. Now mix some epoxy and make a little "blob" underneath the sensor connecting it with bracket. I also used some epoxy to cover upper part of the assembly (not the sensor).


Then bolt it to the side of the engine. 2 screws are securing engine block to engine mount so just unscrew them. Sensor is to be mounted on the side with needle and fuel intake nipple so don't mix it. Before tightening the screws just move it so you have 1-2mm between the magnet in the fan and the sensor. Now the way i measure this was that i took 1.5mm allen wrench and tried to put it between the magnet and the sensor. I wasn't quite able to push it in just by a hair, so i have a little less than 1.5mm.


Finally mount the MultiGov body to some place where you like it. I have it on battery tray from below. It was pretty much the last spot free.


Wiring go by manual to MultiGov when you are looking at the unit with grey socket for LCD cable on top, from left you will fill 4 places
Throttle channel from receiver (3 on Futaba)
Governor channel (if you have it, channel 7 on Futaba)
Sensor
Throttle servo

Other three are for power, micture servo and temperature sensor (in that order) to fulfill CarbSmart function (adjusting your needle in flight automatically based on temperature of the engine block).
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:56 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Next weekend and new flight video. Not awesome quality (neither is the flight) but it's longer than previous.



This was last tank running so rich. Next flight i do i will do one half twist on the needle to lean to see how is it.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:37 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Got mine all finished up. Took her to the field today to lovely 15 mph winds, gusting to at least 20-25.
I have flown my 450 in those winds, but I just did not trust the settings (with servo throws and rates and such, and will the tail hold, and is the trim set). I could see me getting light on the skids and have a gust of wind pick her up and not be able to recover due to the settings.
I spooled it up to only about 25% power, and then cracked on FM1, engine bogged, then spooled to 75% (FM0 with stick, FM1 75%, FM2 100%). Made sure collective was low enough to plant the skids, then hit back to FM0. Whoops! She lifted off about 2 feet and settled down nice. Guess I'll have to adjust the pitch curves.
Decided to get some guts to it after a little bit, an put her into a hover in FM0. Noted not NEARLY enough cyclic control in DR0, so I turned everything to DR1. I had DR0 at 50% throws, 12% expo, DR1 75% throws, 8% expo, and DR2 at 100% throws and 0% expo. DR1 was satisfactory for hover control at this point.
I found the gyro lacking at this point, set at 45% gain, (JR gyro, I forget the model) I will have to make some increases to the gain, and program the tri-rates.
Burned through two tanks, and checked everything out. No major issues. I found one servo screw had come out (!) and that was about it. I took the motor out and put on the temperature thermistor, since the DX8 has the telemetry module.
I guess I will try to go back tomorrow and get a few light tuning runs in, and start some forward flight.

I had serious bogging in the engine, but I was running 2.5 turns out on the "hover needle"
on the YS56. There was definite fuel on the ground too, so I know it was rich. "Fast" throttle changes would bog it out , but once running in a hover, it seemed smooth enough.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:05 AM   #138 (permalink)
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How to recognize i am lean enough on the needle? I leaned by one full turn (so i am now 2 full turns open). Measured temperatures after all flights.

Leaned half turn on first 2 flights. Muffler after landing 170°C, engine block (measured from side where TT logo on engine is) was 56°C.
Leaned another half turn for third flight. Muffler got 190-200°C and engine block 64°C.

Are these temperatures normal? Muffler seems to be too hot and engine too cold.

I will be switching to 30% nitro in about 2 more tanks when i finish 15%.

Leaning by 1 turn gave me 2 more minutes of flight time on one tank (from 6 minutes to 8 minutes).

Another question is what do you do with leftover nitro? I am almost sure i will have just a little bit left of the 15%. Maybe as much as 1 header tank. What you guys do in this case?
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:44 AM   #139 (permalink)
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http://www.jupiter-venlo.nl/Algemeen...0EN%20v3.1.pdf

this should help ,have had it book marked for years
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:05 PM   #140 (permalink)
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That for sure helps, thanks Tommy.
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