Mystery parts in a Jive box

[Hawk404]

So I resolved my "Jive vs. Koby" quandary by buying two Jives - one 80HV and an 80LV for 12S and 6S applications respectively.

Included with the LV but absent from the HV is a resistor, a couple of microscopic connectors and a nano-scale itty-bitty wire. The instructions probably didn't translate all that well so given the following:

I don't stand a chance of soldering those connectors or what I presume to be 24 ga wire in a hundred tries. It'd be like performing a vasectomy on a gerbil and I'm not sure where they go or what they're supposed to do anyway.

Since the microscopic parts are labeled as "anti-spark" can I just use a Jeti anti-spark gizmo which is a nice big old fat thing more suitable to my soldering skills?

I'm supposing that given Kontronik's dire warnings of busting a cap I shouldn't just blow it off.

One guesses that the HV has more robust caps as the parts only appear in the LV and there's no warning note in the HV - can I ignore the issue on the HV or should I treat it to some kind of anti-spark gizmo as well?

Lastly is the Jive 80HV suitable for use where I'm replacing a CC 90? The "80" part doesn't trouble me but I noticed after my order shipped that there's such a thing as a "helijive 120" and a "jive 120" but the differences aren't clear. My internet connection has reverted to 1985 throughput levels so I'm out of luck for explanatory videos or downloading the manuals for the heli and standard (which I presume would tell me what the difference is).

[Vinger]

I have a Jive 100LV on my 500 for nearly 5 years, it never came with anti spark wiring and I don't use it, it has worked flawlessly.

The 80HV with heatsink will out perform the CC90 any day, so you are good there. The HeliJive and PowerJive 120 is discontinued and replaced by JivePro120, basically a mini Kosmik, with BEC adjustable to 8.4V and have auto bailout etc, same as Kosmik and HeliJive.

[Hawk404]

I love it when the answer is exactly what I wanted to hear - thanks!

I'm going to put some GPU heatsinks on the Jive. Solid copper and a tad more expensive than the Kontronik product but they're on hand.

[LARRY2716]

If use a little Shoe Goo or Goop to bond the heat sink edges to the case, it will make it less likely for the mass of the heat sink to pull the heat transfer plate from the Jive during a hard landing, or vibration.
Of course use thermal epoxy between heat sink and Jive too.

For what it's worth!
Enjjoy!

[Hawk404]

Originally Posted by LARRY2716

If use a little Shoe Goo or Goop to bond the heat sink edges to the case, it will make it less likely for the mass of the heat sink to pull the heat transfer plate from the Jive during a hard landing, or vibration.
Of course use thermal epoxy between heat sink and Jive too.

For what it's worth!
Enjjoy!

You made me look.

The copper sinks come with 3M 8815. I've got a small collection of Arctic Silver left over from my computer building days but none of it is the bonding type.

They're pure copper so pretty soft but laying a bead on the built in sink seems like a prudent precaution.

I'm having second thoughts about the resistor on the 80-LV but the Jetis I have on hand are the 4mm 75A guys which will test my meager soldering skills so I'm still inclined to forget about it.

[LARRY2716]

Arctic Silver's ASTA-7G is the way to go. This permanent epoxy is made with 99.8% pure micronized silver and has a silver content of 62-65% by weight.

I still put a small bead of Goop on edges of heat sink to the case, to make it more secure.