Just pulled the trigger on a Helibug 600 conv.

[Doozer]

it's actually a 600ESP I'm converting. Bought the 17t Kit and the parts bag. I also bought a rx tray, main shaft bearing mounts, boom case, engine bearing mount. I've only been flying liquid fueled since Jan., but I'm hooked. Anything else you guys can think of, or tips that might help the build go smooth would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
robby

[carey shurley]

the manual has suggestions assuming you're converting a nitro

[Azalin]

I have converted my 600E. Had to spent more money but the result is good.

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by carey shurley

the manual has suggestions assuming you're converting a nitro

Just d/l'd it last night. Very nice manual you've written. Straight forward and concise. Thanks for writing that. Just waiting to get the kit. Just a quick question though, and maybe you covered this in the manual but I didn't see it/missed it... As I stated in my first post, I'm converting an ESP. The tail servo is mounted on the boom. Do you recommend buying the tail control arm and mounting the servo in the frame?

[Azalin]

I moved the servo from boom to the frame. Both same actually. Maybe the smoke from the muffler affect the servo if its in the boom.

[klamp]

I add a jewel generator to my gassers. That way I don't have to worry about charging a receiver pack. Had to fabricate a mount out of a plate of G10.

[carey shurley]

Do you recommend buying the tail control arm and mounting the servo in the frame?

Unless you have the parts to boom mount the servo, you're going to have a hard time mounting the servo.

I mount them upfront on my 600/700 simply because I don't want to deal with the long wires and extra connectors that have to be secured.

I don't think you'll see any real performance difference regardless of where you mount it.

my recommendation would be to simply put it in the default position. The parts needed don't cost much

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by carey shurley

Unless you have the parts to boom mount the servo, you're going to have a hard time mounting the servo.

Yes sir, I do, that's why I asked. This was an ESP which comes with the boom mount.

On that note, heres a list of parts I've needed to complete an ESP conversion:

So here's the break-down:

• Helibug HB6-RCT7 Gasser Conversion Kit $300

• http://www.helibug.com/HB6-RCT.htm
• HB6-RCT7 - Required Parts Package $130 (same link as above)
• This is a complete pack of required parts to complete the HB6-RCT7 Conversion kit. You will need these parts to complete the above conversion.This package includes:
• 
  
  1. Align Trex 700 Clutch and Clutch Bell
  2. Align Trex 700 Clutch Start Shaft
  3. Align Trex 700 Flange Bearing Pack (HN7067)
  4. Align Trex 600 One Way Bearing and Bearing Shaft (H60021 & H60139)
  5. Align Trex 600 Frame Mounting Blocks (HN6019)
  6. Align Trex 600 Frame Mounting Bolts (HN6104)
  7. Align Trex 700 115T Module-1 Main Gear
  8. KDE AT600-MGC Trex 600 Main Gear Case
  
  
• Zenoah G230RC Gasoline Engine $205
  
  
  http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=112260
  
  
  
  Really you can get these from many distributors, but these guys are really good, and super fast. Either of the Heliproz (there are two) are very good to deal with, but the ones from up north go out of their way to deliver the goods. Their site is up to date, and the inventory is current. If there's an issue, they call.
  
  
  
  
  600E necessary conversion parts:
  
  
• HN6105 - Metal Engine Bearing Block $25.99
• HN6004T - Engine Gear Set $11.99 (you need the clutch nut from this set. You can toss the pinion in a spare parts box)
• HN6011 - Bearing Blocks (Upper and Lower) HN0007 $13.99 (plastic)
• HN6024 - RECEIVER MOUNT 600N $7.37
• HN6030 - TAIL BOOM CASE NITRO $11.47
• HN6016 - Canopy Support $10.99
• HN6038T- Metal Tail Control Arm $10.99
• HN6032T- Bearing(6800ZZ/695ZZ) $7.99 (engine bearing block does not come with bearings)
• HN6093 / HC6001 - 600N Fiberglass Canopy/White $17.99 (This is a blank Canopy. I do my own paint jobs. If you want a canopy that's painted, you can add between $40 - $65 dollars more to the overall price.)
• HN6026T - Control Shaft (HN0011T) $6.99 (your ESP Control Shaft is too short )
• HN6019T - Frame Mounting Block $19.99
• HN6099T Servo Linkage Rod Set $6.99 (you'll need the long linkage rod from this set for your tail servo and a linkage rod for your throttle servo. Anyway, it never hurts to have extra linkage rods.)
• HN60037T - Plastic Hexagona Bolts $3.99 (you'll need these if you use the plastic main shaft bearing blocks)

• In addition to the above parts, if you use the plastic mainshaft bearing blocks you'll need (x22) 2.5mm x 12mm screws (button head or capped your choice)for frame mounting. You can reduce this number by 8 if you use the metal blocks). Also you'll need (x2) 3mm x 16mm for the clutch. Since the I had to change the tail boom case, you'll need (x2) 2.5mm x 16mm screws. I had screws with the electric case, but there wasn't enough threads in the nut for my taste. This is a running tally and may change.
  

Price for NECESSARY parts from 600N: $156.73 (Heliproz Prices http://www.heliproz.com/ )

Total price of the 600E conversion as it stands: $787.55 (This is with an unpainted canopy. If you don't paint, count on adding at least $40 more.) Because you'll need screws, it might be wise to invest in some RC Screwz or RTL Fasteners.

This is what I use: http://rtlfasteners.com/Merchant2/mercha....Category_Code=A

This kit has saved me gas and time many many times, in many different builds. I've already used screws from this kit in this build (May 01, 2011).

[Azalin]

I recommend the metal ones.

The ESP canopy wont fit whatever you do. Sorry.

[Doozer]

Thanks for the reply Azalyn... I kind of figured that was the case with the canopy. I saw that Rototerrier used the 700 Canopy because he had issues with the 600.

I guess it depends on how you fly and your experience level as far as the plastic goes... I know why people like to use metal, but are we sure that plastic is not usable. If someone has already used plastic and found that it fails, that would be great information to pass on. While I've not read every single post in every thread in this forum, a search does not bear out that kind of information. If there is a thread/post that has that information if someone could link it I would appreciate it. If no one has tried plastic in this kit, I guess I'll step up.

[fastflyer20]

Welcome, the kits are very good.
The plastic clutch block support is a weak link even on a nitro, the gasser with a 700 clutch will make it worse, 3D or not. Other than that I think you will be OK. If you ever decide to upgrade to metal main shaft blocks, use ones with oversize bearings, I think I2 (rc-tek) and KDE both make them. The 6800zz main bearings don't last long in a T600.

Two Helibug threads:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=219735

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=292109

[Azalin]

I have never used plastic main shaft bearing blocks but i had 2 fails with the plastic tail rotor control arm and vertical stabilizer mount. Soon after i replaced all plastics with metals.

[Rototerrier]

If you do go with a 700 canopy, make sure to not try to use the stock rear mounting positions on the canopy. That will have the canopy sitting really high and it won't be well supported. I found that air would get in there and cause the thing to shake violently. You will need to lower it down in the rear to take up some of the slack and get it tighter and closer to the top of the frame.

[fastflyer20]

Fusuno "new shape" T600 canopy is the perfect size, bigger that the original canopy slightly smaller than the 700, with better positioned rear attachment points.

[Doozer]

I updated the necessary parts for an electric conversion. I added the metal engine bearing block to the list because some very wise people in this thread think its needed. I don't want to bang my head against the wall wishing I'd taken the advice so I went ahead and ordered it.

[Doozer]

While I'm waiting on parts, I decided to paint the frame.

[Azalin]

Looks good.

[Rototerrier]

Hmm, now it will be really hard to tell when / if your heli has really caught fire

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Rototerrier

Hmm, now it will be really hard to tell when / if your heli has really caught fire

Thought that's why they made temp guns

I was bored. I broke down and ordered the metal engine block from my LHS. He was out and it will be in Friday. I also needed a clutch nut, which he didn't have, and it will be here friday as well. I did dry fit the clutch to the bell and it seems very loose. I'm using the Align 700 clutch and bell. Do you guys recommend re-lining the bell with the Lynx liner on this clutch as well?

[klamp]

Originally Posted by Doozer

Do you guys recommend re-lining the bell with the Lynx liner on this clutch as well?

I would. Just don't do the lynx clutch + gasser liner. With both it's way too tight. But one or the other is fine.