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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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06-26-2014, 02:14 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Trex 500e upgrades and spares
Hi everyone,
First post, so be gentle! Im in the process of my first build, a Trex 500e, its going together pretty nicely so far! I'm pretty new to heli's and looking for some advice on non Align parts and upgrades. I'm planning to put together some spares and upgrade some of the plastic parts to metal as and when they need to be. I've seen various parts from China by Tarot and some un branded. Specifically metal tail units and main blade holders which are half the price of Align and just wondered if the quality was good or just not worth it as poor quality/performance? Any help would be much appreciated. |
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06-26-2014, 06:24 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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china
I bought a few things from china DON'T buy any torque tude umbrella gears from them or the torque tube drive gear not worth it there cheap and they won't fit right.....I didn't like the metal rotor grip's also....but I did like the rotor blades and carbon main blades they was nice for the price....my 2 cent's is china hong kong just puts out cheap nock offs and low prices......
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06-26-2014, 09:29 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Maryland
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Most people that buy the clone helicopters end up replacing parts with genuine Align parts until they eventually have an Align heli. Clone quality is hit or miss, and the last thing you want is to save $15 on a part, which breaks in midair, causing $100+ in crash damage.
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<> Trex 600 ESP FBL, Trex 500 ESP FBL, Gaui X3, Oxy 3 <> <> Builds in progress: Logo 600SX, Synergy 516 <> *Spartan Vortex VX1e*
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06-26-2014, 10:55 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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250 and 450 clones are ok if you are trying to save money. A 500 in my opinion is just too big of a heli to go cheap on with your parts. No offense, a 500 isn't even all that big of a heli when you see a 700 flown in real life but still. Much more piece of mind flying proven parts.
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Team MSH USA - Cyclone Blades MSH Prôtos 380 Brain 2 MSH Prôtos Max V2 Brain |
06-27-2014, 12:55 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Why buy a nice heli just to put cheap sh£t on it ?
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Nigel. A few little tiddlers ..SR, 300X, TRex 500E Pro with DFC, Trex 700DFC..... and quite a few Planks and Tanks ! |
06-27-2014, 02:36 AM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
I recently bought an HK500 kit, having already got an Align 500e. I went into it eyes-open, having read about problems with the tail gear and, sure enough, when I got mine it was immediately obvious that the tail operation was notchy. So I replaced it with genuine Align parts. Then I had a problem setting the main blade pitch accurately, due to slop in the system, but I took it for a test flight, and aborted within 5 seconds due to the blades being about 3" out of track, and horrific vibration. I replaced the complete head, from swash upwards, including main shaft and bearings, with Align spares that I had for my original heli, and it now flies just like my Align Usually there's no need to go to 3rd parties for metal upgrades, since Align do many themselves. The only 3rd-party item I've got is a metal anti rotation bracket from KDE Direct, which Align don't seem to do for the 500. |
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06-27-2014, 03:22 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Thanks for the feedback, I will stick with the Align stuff as don't want to risk a failure just to save a bit of cash.
Is there anything plastic that you would replace straight away on the 500e for a metal upgrade? |
06-27-2014, 04:13 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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For me, there are some clone parts I will buy and other things I will buy align only. Main shafts and feathering shafts I buy align because I have had issues with clone parts, so I don't screw with them anymore. I guess as you get more experienced, you start to figure out what clone parts work and which don't also which brands to stay away from. Batteries is one area you want to stay away from the cheap knock offs. You don't have to buy expensive, but make sure the batteries you get have a decent reputation. I bought ebay batteries once and it was a horrible experience. rcaerodyne has some decent clone parts.
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Trex 700L Ikon 2 / Trex 700L Ikon V. 2 / SAB Goblin 500 Sport Ikon 2 / HD Cell 500 Ikon 2 It isn't about if, it is about when! |
06-27-2014, 07:28 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Thanks for the feedback.
I think I will stick with the Align stuff, not worth the risk of problems just to save a little bit of cash. Is there anything that I should think about replacing plastic for metal straight away, or just replace when in breaks/wears? |
06-27-2014, 11:03 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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My Align 500 flew for a few years with original parts. The only thing I upgraded because it broke (threads stripped) was the anti-rotation bracket I mentioned earlier. Other parts I upgraded only when they wore out -- I got an all-metal tail unit a while back, for instance, because the original plastic one was creating a vibration which resonated in the tail of my scale Hughes 500 fuselage. I also upgraded my ESC from the stock Align one to a CC Talon 90 when the original started playing up.
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06-27-2014, 04:08 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Truth is, everybody crashes differently. For whatever reason, there are guys here that can plow it in from 20' and have a broken skid. I can dumb-thumb it from a 5' hover and need a new kit.
That said, below is a list of commonly trashed parts in a "std." crash (whatever a standard crash is): Main shaft (Align) Feathering shaft (Align) Main Blades Tail blades Tail Boom Torque tube (align) or Belt (align...I've gotten inconsistent lengths from Hobby King/Tarot) Main Gear Parts that wear quickly, may survive one crash, or kinda suck out of the box: Swashplate: The stock swash isn't particularly nice. They even come new in box with built-in slop. Fly it until you get comfortable in the air, then replace it with an I2RC swashplate. Main Bearing Blocks: They don't handle a crash very well. You might get by with 1 or 2, but they'll get notchy pretty quick which can add significant noise/vibration. There are a host of aftermarket options...I'd pick one that offers larger than stock bearings. Skids/Skid pipes: They may last a season of crashes or they may break on the first. Hard to say. I use 600-size skids because I'm a wuss, fly in a windy area, and don't want my heli to tip over on the landing pad. Might not be a bad idea to pick up a spare set. Main Grip/Tail Grip bearings: Again, you might get one or two crashes out of them. Replace them as soon as they get notchy. Metal Parts: When I first started, I promptly spent a bunch of money on metal parts. Then I crashed the hell out of them. I've got enough (new) spare parts to build two or three complete Align FBL heads...but I switched to a Compass tracx head once I started progressing...and now the align parts collect dust. I think the plastic tail grips (if you have them) should be replaced with the complete Pro versions. You'll want the Pro hub too, but it comes as a package with the grips. I've never flown the plastic main grips so I don't know much about them. They may be fine for now, but I'll let someone else with experience in that area chime in. |
06-28-2014, 03:15 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Yeah, as for the plastic to metal upgrades...
Upgrades... well maybe... really doesnt change flight characteristics, but nice to have. OK, plastic main grips.. they are OK, they break in crashes, where the metal grips tend to survive most of the time. ESP Flybar heads are going cheap these days, keep an eye on the forsale threads. Tail grip, and tail units. Many guys like the plastic one better, but that was when Align was still using the old ESP tail units...( only one radial bearing ) Now, the latest version tail grips, are very good. But not totally necessary.. a good "buy when crashed the old ones" option. You have a Trex 500"e" right? Belted? The Align "belted" metal tail case is just about impossible to find anymore. If I HAD to buy one, it would probably be the Tarot. Main bearing blocks....I would replace these when you can. Either Tarot, Align, or my preference..i2. The i2 main blocks are far better quality, and have a great warranty. One upgrade I just posted in another thread that I am a full out supporter of, is.. The i2 metal base plate for the Trex 500. It comes with breakaway nuts for the skid mounts. In three seperate crashes of mine, they worked perfectly. Broke away, letting the entire landing gear break away and saving my frames. +1 for using bigger skids and pipes...I've been flying 600/700 ( they are the same ) skids and pipes on my 500's since day one. Wider stance. almost CANT tip the sucker over. I fly in grass fields so the wider skids work well on uneven terrain. Also I fly the 700 tail fin...my tail blades NEVER touch the ground. Only if I crash it tail first, but in shaky landings, NEVER. All this ISNT necessary.. just stuff to keep in mind for later...right now, get it flying, and go fly.
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Trex700N2E Trex500ESPTT(PRO head and Tail ) Trex500ESP (Belted) HC500SE ....GO TEAM FLYBAR! |
07-02-2014, 04:02 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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I built and flew an Align 500e. I wouldn't upgrade anything until it breaks.
I also have a Tarot 500 ESP I converted to FBL. I think the only Tarot part left is the main gear casing. I can get Align parts almost overnight from A Main Hobbies. I'm using the 500e plastic tail on it! I would certainly consider upgrading to FBL. If you do you'll need the DFC upgrade kit and a set of 500 Pro blade grips. I'm also using the pro tail grips.
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07-02-2014, 04:45 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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I2 sold by rc-tek offers very high quality made in USA upgrades. Their swash and main bearing blocks are must haves if you fly a lot.
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Tom TRM Power CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different. |
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