Hyp 550s conversion to Micro Deans

[das_bulk]

So before i wing it and start soldering/ripping off the black cover, I was wondering if anyone had any insight on how to do this. I have 9 packs and 9 Micro deans connectors with 2in on wire remaining. I was hoping i could remove the black cap on the batery to expose the solder points then just solder on my microdeans (threaded back through the cap) and reglue said cap back to the battery. Is this even close to what I will be doing? If not, I will have to cut the banana plug wires and solder my deans direct to the origional wires.

If you have any insight ie. Pictures, Link to a guide, ideas on what glue is safe to re-glue the black cap back on (I would like to use 5/15 min Epoxy) then start sharing!

Also looking for general ideas of what my flight times on HP05 setup will jump to. Getting about 3:30 on the 300 MAH packs doing supre-diluted-mild 3d.

Thanks in advance!

[Skyroo]

Just solder them micro deans to the wires directly. No need to mess around to remove and regluing the black cap. First cut off the original JST connector. To do this safely, you need to cut off one wire at a time, as close to the edge of the JST connector as possible. Leave the other wire uncut as otherwise you might run the risk of shorting out your battery. You should have about 15mm of cut wire to work with. The wire is very soft so you can use your fingernails to strip off the insulation to leave some wire strands exposed. Tin the wire then slip a short length of 1.5mm heat shrink tube over the wire. Secure the micro deans plug somewhere firmly like a small vice. Tin both connectors. Then hold a piece of wet rag over the heat shrink tube and solder the battery wire to one of the connectors. I like to solder my negative wire to the micro deans so that the exposed end is the negative end. The idea of the wet rag is to temporary stop the shrink tube from shrinking due to the short wire length. Once you have soldered the wire, slip and heat the shrink tube to cover all exposed metal/solder area on the micro deans. Now you can cut off the other battery wire and repeat the above process.

Most people don't do the following but I do. Finish off by slipping a 15mm length of 6mm shrink tube to cover up the 7mm length(the whole length) of the micro deans plug and 8mm of the battery wires now covered by shrink tubes. This is to stop the heat shrink tubes from sliding off after repeating plugging and unplugging of the battery. As a final safety measure, cut off some small length of 6mm shrink tubes and apply a tiny bit of hot glue on one end and use your fingers to pinch shut that end while the glue is still hot. You now have a cap to cover up the single exposed end of the micro deans connector. You never know, those batteries can somehow get amorous making ultra hot and lethal love with each other.

[Skyroo]

I forgot to mention that with my XP-12A and HP05 setup, I can safely run fly up to 5 minutes which leaves just slightly over 20% of battery capacity left. At 4:30 minutes, I get around 27-30% capacity left. Take it easy for the first few flights to run in your batteries properly. I suggest 3:30 max 4 minutes flight. According to Hyperion, you can charge up to 6C but I like to charge mine at 5C five at a time using my parallel charging setup. It takes just under 30 minutes to charge them fully at 5C.

[65L88]

I removed the connectors and the wiring on my 550's and replaced the 24awg with 20awg before soldering the Dean's on. It might not make a noticeable difference, at least by itself, but IMO it all adds up. I DO know that replacing all the wiring on my bl setup with 22awg wiring and using 20awg on my lipos along with converting to micro Dean's gave me a solid 350 rpm higher headspeed on my C05m powered bird, so it's something worth at least considering......

[Spunjah413]

Originally Posted by Skyroo

It takes just under 30 minutes to charge them fully at 5C.

30 minutes seems a bit long for 5C. Takes me ~15-20 minutes from 3.7V, and ~10-15min from 3.85V storage charge @ 5C.

[decompyler]

What does 5C translate to amps? It is kind of silly why it is standard for us to use C rating when we have to do a conversion to amperage for the setting on our chargers anyway.

[DiggityDan]

.550 x 5 = 2.75 amps

[Spunjah413]

Originally Posted by decompyler

What does 5C translate to amps? It is kind of silly why it is standard for us to use C rating when we have to do a conversion to amperage for the setting on our chargers anyway.

.550mA x 5 = 2.75A for a 5C charge rate of a single 550.

[decompyler]

So, if you were doing 2 cells in parallel, you could go as high as 5.5?

[Skyroo]

Capacity of battery = 550mAh
1C -- 0.55A
5C -- 5x0.55 = 2.75A or 2750mA

My Hyperion charger which I hook up to my PC will tell me the batteries are sufficiently charged at around the 20-24 minute mark charging at 5C. The indicated battery voltage displayed by the software at this stage is 4.18v. I can use the batteries at this stage but I have programmed the charger to continue charging until the batteries no longer accept any more charge when they have reached 4.2v which is around the 27 minute mark. The charging time is also determined by the amount of the internal resistance of the batteries.

[Skyroo]

Originally Posted by decompyler

So, if you were doing 2 cells in parallel, you could go as high as 5.5?

Correct. So if I charge 5 batteries in parallel which I often do, the charging current at 5C is 2.75(1 battery) x 5 = 13.75A

[das_bulk]

Converison is done 7 of 9 survived (1 lost to short circuit, 1 lost to wrong polarity that also took out my ESC). My mistakes and caused the loss of the 2 packs to the salt water bucket but they are still bad ass. Now im looking to go BL with a bigger motor and better ESC than the Wow hobbies PNP kit. Any sudjestions?

[SYMAWD]

Spin 16300 and XP 7A

[das_bulk]

Originally Posted by SYMAWD

Spin 16300 and XP 7A

Done and Done... just finished placing my order or the 16.3 10A before i checked back on this page. The biggest problem is im stuck flying the stocker for about 2 weeks on my 3 small packs (stocker doesnt like the hyp 550s cause they are fat).

[65L88]

Originally Posted by das_bulk

Done and Done... just finished placing my order or the 16.3 10A before i checked back on this page. The biggest problem is im stuck flying the stocker for about 2 weeks on my 3 small packs (stocker doesnt like the hyp 550s cause they are fat).

Trim the little nubs off the inside of the stock battery holder and the 550's will squeeze in. Don't expect to do any wild 3d with them on a stock heli, though. They're pretty heavy.