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300X Blade 300X Helicopters Information and Help |
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12-11-2012, 10:47 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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Blade 300X Aluminum tail case
FYI
If you purchase the Blade aluminum tail case for the 300X (BLH4532A) you will experience serious slop in the stock tail shaft/pulley assembly. You must also purchase the tail rotor shaft aluminum drive pulley (BLH4535A). The shank on one side of the pulley in 4535A is longer and will account for the extra width in the aluminum tail case assembly. I apologize for opening a new thread but did not see an appropriate place for this otherwise. Cheers! |
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03-10-2013, 12:28 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Alternatively I've found you can use a step washer from the feathering shaft to take up the slop using the stock tail shaft in the aluminum tail case. This is the washer that rests against the bearing and has one side that is smaller than the other. The smaller side rests against the inner race of the bearing. Place the washer on the shaft on the side opposite from the tail blades between the plastic bushing and the bearing with the smaller side facing the bearing. This effectively removes all of the slop and saves some dough given you happen to have some of these spare washers from feathering shaft repairs. Also, I would guess that the plastic gear is probably less destructive to the tail belt over time.
I actually did purchase the aluminum tail shaft based on this thread, but found the setup described above results in less slop than with the aluminum shaft. The aluminum shaft still has a very slight amount of slop but doesn't seem to cause any problems. Also, it should be noted that if you plan to stick with the stock tail pitch lever you will need to supply a nut (the same type used on the blade grips) to secure it. The screw doesn't thread into the aluminum tail case as it does on the stock case. |
04-08-2013, 11:38 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Blade 300X Aluminum tail case
Thank you, this was just the thread I was looking for.
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04-09-2013, 01:00 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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The biggest problem I have head with the tailcase is it is not indexed so you have to tighten it too much to keep it in place that causes vibes. I think if you put it on with some goop to keep it from rotating you can keep from overtightening it.
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06-18-2013, 04:05 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pickens, SC
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I am thinking about purchasing the aluminum tail case- I already have a tail pitch lever and rotor pitch control slider on the way. I did not buy the case because I had heard that it was loose.
Question: If I buy the case and the aluminum tail shaft- is it worth it? |
06-18-2013, 06:21 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Stock tail case is fine, Alu is really bling factor, try the mod as Nelsonisms posted above and see if this works for you.
As you already have 2 of the required parts for the Alu set up, the case completes the mod, it's really a question of cost / postage and delivery time just my thought's...
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sc00bied00 DX8i | Phoenix Sim | Nano CPX | 300X | 450X | Goblin 380 | Soko Heli Tool |
06-18-2013, 07:19 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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the whole ally assembly is plagued with slop, the pitch slider control arm has the biggest issue, the screws that run in the slider ring are too narrow introducing a least a mm of play.
The slider bush is also a poor fit but doesn't become apparent unless you work your way back from the tail grips removing slop as you go. I went for Align's latest silver grips for the 450 pro, problem with that is it highlights the play in the slider pitch links so I removed the slider and split it, I also stripped a slider from the 450 pro, I used the front part of the align slider complete with pitch links and the circular part from the ally eflite slider and screwed it all back together. This setup while better still has some play in the Align pitch links so i'm replacing them with the ball raced version from helioption, these are also available from Kde. This then highlights the play in the stock brass slider bush, the Align 1's destroy themselves when removing them ( they're pretty soft, order a spare ). The result from all this should be considerably less play and increased throw each way due to shorter Align pitch links, adjust your epa's to suit.
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Lee Griffiths |
06-18-2013, 10:15 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: US
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Interesting...
I got all the Blade alloy bits and alloy tail housing and have no visible vibration or tail wag, but have the Lynx tail fin and blades which were very well balanced out of the box to the thousanths of a gram. So far all the stock Blade aluminum is working well for me, but I only have a handful of flights on mine and no crashes.
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Mark Dusty Shelf queens: TDR2, TDR, Protos Max, Logo 550SX, Protos 500, Jeti DS-16, etc.... |
06-18-2013, 02:38 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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It's been documented a few times in this forum how the pins (the ones that go into the silder) in the aluminum pitch lever are too short/narrow which may result it excessive play. At least they were in the past. Maybe Horizon got it together and fixed the issue, but I doubt it. The general consensus has been to use the stock lever (which has longer pins) with the aluminum case/slider. As I said in my previous post you just have to use a locknut to secure the lever. I've been running it in that configuration for a good long while without issue. That is, the aluminum tail case, aluminum slider, stock shaft (with step washer as shim), stock lever, align 450 pro tail hub/grips.
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Gaui X5F 6S (VBar), Lynx 450X-L 6S (Ikon), Lynx 300X-L 4S (Ikon), Blade 180CFX 3S (Ikon) Lumenier QAV400 4S (Vector), Lumenier QAV250 3S (Naze32/CleanFlight), CYE Stingray 500 4S (TG Multi) AMA Member, HCAM Member |
06-18-2013, 05:36 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: US
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First of all I'm not trying to be defensive about my purchase in any way. I'd like to know about any trouble areas that I should look for. This is just a toy and I purchased what I did based on the recommendations of a friend who has been getting good service out of his little 300X's.
Can you see any problems that you describe from this picture. I made sure to locktite all the bolts in the tail area as a matter of good practice. Does that cover what you were talking about or did I miss anything? I put 3 in 1 oil on the slider shaft like I do on all of my helis.
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Mark Dusty Shelf queens: TDR2, TDR, Protos Max, Logo 550SX, Protos 500, Jeti DS-16, etc.... |
06-19-2013, 09:45 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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No worries mkovalcson. I'm definitely not one to get defensive over stuff like this. You're right, we're essentially talking about toys here. I'm glad you spoke up.
I absolutely agree with you based on that image. The pins in the lever look like they do fully extend into the slider. I know there were some pictures showing the short pins at some time back which convinced me to stay away, but I can't seem to find it now. I wonder if Horizon didn't make a change though. If I'm seeing this correctly, the pins in the slider are flat on top and don't have any slots to insert a screw driver. In the original version they were screws that had a philips head as seen in this thread...https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=459984 Anyways, you've convinced me to possibly give it a shot. Thanks.
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Gaui X5F 6S (VBar), Lynx 450X-L 6S (Ikon), Lynx 300X-L 4S (Ikon), Blade 180CFX 3S (Ikon) Lumenier QAV400 4S (Vector), Lumenier QAV250 3S (Naze32/CleanFlight), CYE Stingray 500 4S (TG Multi) AMA Member, HCAM Member |
06-19-2013, 10:43 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: US
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Right now I'm not getting any tail wag in flight.
I did have to drill a shorter hole in my tail servo arm so I could get my tail gain up to about 33% and I'm using the outer most hole on the tail pitch arm. That let the tail servo have more range of motion.
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Mark Dusty Shelf queens: TDR2, TDR, Protos Max, Logo 550SX, Protos 500, Jeti DS-16, etc.... |
06-19-2013, 01:10 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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Lee Griffiths |
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06-19-2013, 01:40 PM | #14 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: US
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Quote:
I just got mine fixed back up after hitting a tree yesterday. 4 batteries charging.
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Mark Dusty Shelf queens: TDR2, TDR, Protos Max, Logo 550SX, Protos 500, Jeti DS-16, etc.... |
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06-19-2013, 03:03 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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I'm just sending HH UK an email regarding the updated part, I have a new unused alu tail set with the screws that are not finished at the bottom in the lever assy, they are also not the same diameter as the ones in the plastic tail lever.
Looking for a replacement with this new one if they have modified, as I don't want any premature wear of the slider ring as shown in this thread https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=459984 #20 I can't return to Fast-Lad as I have had them longer that the retuns time, will update with HH's response, have sent pic of the one that mkovalcson has on his 300X as an example, so thanks for posting this. Also I was looking at trying to mod the one I have by putting heat shrink on the screws that locate into the slider ring. I used 2mm heat shrink trimmed off excess and then had a look at the fitting, it's a little tight even with some triflow grease on it, I don't have any 1 mm heat shrink to try and see if its a little thinner when shrunk on to the screw, not sure if anyone has tried before but thought I would mention.
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2.4, 300x, blade, heli, spektrum |
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