Furion 6 Flybarless Build Pictures

[Thrasymedes]

Any updates? Can't wait!

[dauste]

DON'T!!!


OK I'm starting to get a bit fed up waiting for the batteries to arrive.

SKU Z40005S-40
StatusBACKORDER
Price$55.73
Capacity4000mAh5S
Discharge40C (160A)

I've got another week or so before these things hit Europe. We have just had some awful weather, so in some ways I'm glad they are not here as that would be worse if I had them and couldn't fly because it is so cr@p outside.

I think I'm going to upgrade my Vbar software to Pro tomorrow though, just to give me something to do!

[fenwayrick]

Damn I got my kit on a Monday, I ordered my batteries on Wednesday and got them the following Wednesday. They were the same batteries , but the nano's.

[dauste]

Hey, thanks a bunch! Nothing like rubbing some salt in to the wounds!!!

What are your flight times/CoG like with those Rick? They are just a couple of grams heavier than the ones I've gone for.

[fenwayrick]

The COG is damn near perfect, however the flight times are not so good, I really don't fly that hard and get around 5 min.

[fenwayrick]

The 5s1p4000 30C packs are in stock, do you think you need a 40C running 10s

[dauste]

Nah, don't think I specifically need 40C, that's just what was available at the weight I need to balance. At least they should come down fairly cool and may help extend their usable life.

I'm doing the Vbar upgrade later, so I will have the bank facility to store and switch to various flight set-ups. It may mean that I will get some 5Ah batteries as well and let the Vbar do the maths.

[dauste]

I was struggling trying to measure the pitch on the blades with my cheapo Align gauge and no flybar to measure off. I lined the heli up in front of a known level on my wall, but then thought the heli itself may not be level, so whatever I did was always just going to be an approximation. I had seen that screw in rod that you fit where the head button is, but didn't want to go to that extent.

I've now upgraded the Vbar to Pro software and it uses some simple measuring techniques to give very accurate pitch measurements. Having looked at the maths, I figured you could use this as the main means of measuring pitch and never use a pitch gauge again. So what to do... (apologies if you've seen this elsewhere, I'm sure someone else must have shown this before on the site.)

First I swapped one of the blades over and then fold them back in the blade grip like this.




To set 0 pitch at mid stick.

Set your linear pitch curve in the TX and then at 50% stick position you're aiming for 0 deg pitch on the blades. Adjust your swash height as necessary and you will have 0 deg pitch when the blade tips are together like this.




Now to check your collective pitch range.

Move your stick up to give full +ve and the blades will move apart. Take a rule and measure the distance between the blade tips as shown here.



Now for that calculation, you will need a scientific calculator!

Take your measurement from the rule and divide it by 2. In this case I had 270mm, so divided that gives me 135.

Now measure your blade length from the centre of the bolt hole to blade tip, on these Edge blades that is 603mm.

Divide the 135 by 603 = 0.22388......

Next select the Inverse SIN function on your calculator and I get 12.94. So I have 12.94 deg of +ve pitch.

If you then move to full -ve pitch you can check to see that you have an even pitch range, i.e. you should get the same measurement on your ruler.


To check cyclic pitch range.

Put your collective back to 0 deg mid stick. Now with the blades pointing out front, move your elevator stick fully up/forward, the blades will dip down towards the ground. Measure from the blade tips down to the ground, I have 265mm in this instance. Now move the elevator stick down/back and the blades move up. Again measure from the blade tips down to the ground. I have 430mm for example.

Take the first measurement from the second 430-265=165 and then divide this by 2. Gives 82.5, again divide this by the blade length. 82.5/603=0.1368...

Finally select the Inverse SIN function on your calculator giving 7.86.

So I have 7.86 deg of cyclic pitch on the elevator.

To measure aileron pitch, just move the blades off to one side of the heli (90 deg to the boom) and perform the same procedure moving your cyclic stick left/right instead.

[BenHeli]

One question - you are still waiting for batteries, correct?

Get the align fbl measure tool. Fast and simple.

[dauste]

You could tell I was getting bored then!

This is actually a very fast way to check pitch and is way more accurate.

[dauste]

I remember further back in the thread benben posting this pic with Stratus control balls on his swash arms and was wondering why?




I've been setting up the gains etc. on the Vbar using the Pro software and noticed that some of the gain settings were only just inside those suggested for good operation.

For instance Cyclic ring was at 65 when at hovering pitch, low for v5 apparently?

Collective pitch is OK, I get 13 deg at 95 gain.

Cyclic pitch was 8 deg at 80 gain (on the low side).

I decided to experiment with the control balls to see if this could be improved.

First off I've swapped out the balls on the swash arms for the same length ones we normally have sat on the inner swash ring.



This means I have the same collective travel, but getting a little less on the cyclic. Doing this I've been able to increase the cyclic ring setting to 75.

I then tried putting the shorter balls that were out on the swash arms on to the swash ring (link to blade grip).



Again this has had no impact on the collective travel, but tamed down the cyclic. I now have cyclic gain at 95 which is bang in the middle of the suggested gain settings for the control loop.

So, pending batteries turning up soon and the snow melting, should all be ready for some serious action! You never know, I might get the maiden in before Christmas!!

[dauste]

Mwahaha!! Guess what turned up today then???!!!

The batteries have finally arrived! I'm getting worried now, starting to run out of excuses not to fly this thing (oh yeah, still got the snow)!

I fitted them on just to check CoG and they are perfect for my set-up. I'll be having them with the leads at the top as shown, so the wires will all run inside the frame.





I've just got to sort out connectors and make up some Y-harnesses.

[Brian James]

Looking great! Good luck with your maiden flight!

[Thrasymedes]

Congrats Dauste! Looks very nice. If you have never flown a 600 I have found it never hurts to take an extra 30 seconds or so to get the blades out as straight as possible to help prevent spool up shakes. Other than that, you are going to love the bigger machine!!!!

[Thrasymedes]

Can't wait for the flight video....I have my 3D glasses on.... :glasses2:

[Rgoh]

Hello guys,

I'm currently building my Furion 6, but having a small issue. The gap of the links from servo to swashplate is supposed to be 21mm according to the manual, but I have to shorten it quite a bit in order to the swash follower level. The gap is about 19mm now, but the swash follower is still not level, I have to shorten it more. Which actually sounds kinda wrong cause I think I have shorten it to the maximum. If I shorten it some more, the links is going to deform.

Btw, looking at my servo horns from the front, the horns aint actually 90deg to the links, it's about 70-80 ish degrees. I used the alignment tool given.

Am I wrong somewhere? My cyclic servos are BLS451.

[iflyraptors]

Hi Rgoh, that is what I found too. I did notice that if I set the servo up so that the top edge of the ball was just under the alignment gauge and the links were adjusted for 19mm then everything aligned. The manual does not show how to use the alignment tool so I just assumed it was suppose to point at the center of the ball.

[dauste]

Hi Rgoh, read from the bottom of page 6 to p 11 in this thread. I had the same issue. D

[Rgoh]

Hey iflyraptors, thanks I followed your method and everything is nicely leveled now.

Dauste, Thanks as well btw, how's those 4000mah coming along? I ordered some 5000mah, they are a tad too tight as it's a bit too wide. And I'm already slightly nose heavy without canopy! Damn...

[dauste]

CoG with the 4000's and canopy on is perfect for my set-up. I did make up a basket hanging off the front that I loaded up with 3S 2200 batts, so I knew roughly what sizes I could get away with.

The 4000's I've got are too wide to lay flat on the tray, so they are mounted side on.

Hmmmm. How am I getting on with them?? We have a slight 'issue' over here in the UK at the moment:





Not the sort of thing we are generally used to in this green and pleasant land!!