The Official ALeeSUSA Rush 750 Evolution Build Thread

[crashcopterman]

Tail please! (Sounds like I'm talking to my wife ) haha

Steve

[Michaelinpr]

If you can't wait for Scott then you could just check out the Legend Rush build thread. Same tail system.

[crashcopterman]

Oh I can wait, quite frankly I don't need it. He asked, I answered.

[PowerDyne]

Not to derail the build thread, but on the turnbuckles; Which way do you guys put them on? What I mean is the index mark denoting the reverse thread side?

I put mine so the reverse threads are on top, so that when I am looking down on the rotor head I know that turning clockwise shortens the link.

I suppose it's a matter of personal preference, but I didn't know if anyone did it differently?

[dunkonu23]

To be honest, I forgot about the index marks. I'll address that tomorrow. I think having them up is a good thing, too. Righty tighty and all that good stuff.

Edit: It is taken care of. Thank you, Derek!

Scott

[lowey79]

One other thing Scott, with those horns, it looks the spacing you have is about 18mm. I found when doing my swash setup in the vortex, that 18mm put me over 120% in the 8 degree cyclic setting. I went to 21mm on my horns, (only other hole available) and my 8 degree came in at 106%.

[PowerDyne]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

To be honest, I forgot about the index marks. I'll address that tomorrow. I think having them up is a good thing, too. Righty tighty and all that good stuff.

Edit: It is taken care of. Thank you, Derek!

Scott

Thank you for the kind words.

Originally Posted by lowey79

One other thing Scott, with those horns, it looks the spacing you have is about 18mm. I found when doing my swash setup in the vortex, that 18mm put me over 120% in the 8 degree cyclic setting. I went to 21mm on my horns, (only other hole available) and my 8 degree came in at 106%.

I found that 21mm was optimal for the Robird I am using as well. At 18mm it threw my geometry off. I really do think that the servo horn ball distance is dependent on the specific FBL controller.

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by lowey79

One other thing Scott, with those horns, it looks the spacing you have is about 18mm. I found when doing my swash setup in the vortex, that 18mm put me over 120% in the 8 degree cyclic setting. I went to 21mm on my horns, (only other hole available) and my 8 degree came in at 106%.

Thanks, Wayne. We'll see how it works out.

Scott

[Michaelinpr]

I am at 17mm right now using the Vortex. Flies great but I will be trying 18 & 19mm just for fun. I also found the % really high on 17mm.

I aslo noticed that with 17mm I had to use cyclic ring taper which was a first for me. My elevator link was hitting the anti rotation bracket just ever so slightly.

[RJVan]

Anyone build an EVO with a Vbar yet? Just wondering what servo arm length would be best.

Thanks
R.J.

[chris-fry]

I have. Running the ProTek single servo arms (exactly like Scott's build thread).I believe they are 18.5mm, it's the inner most hole I'm using. Only have 1 tuning flight on it. I need to get out and fly it. Had an issue with getting elevator Pre Comp lowered. Every adjustment we made, it didn't help. Found out that my signal wires from the VBar Rx A were about to come out of the Rx (I didn't relocate the Rx after I plugged everything in). Thats what caused my tip over last week on the asphalt. Had it been in grass, I would be waiting to fly it. But I have a friend that is gonna loan me a set of blades so I can fly it.

So, a little goop will be going on the servo plugs in the Rx and VBar.

[Ah Clem]

The problem of the plugs backing out of the FBL units (and receivers) seems to exist with many different manufacturers (I have used five different brands of FBL units, so far-this can happen with any of them I have used).

Goop works, I use the 3M tape and put an extra fold of it under the plugs, so they cannot back out of the FBL unit unless the tape is removed:



If I were to design an FBL unit, I would try to come up with something to lock the plugs in, so that this cannot happen.

[crashcopterman]

I use a section of a zip tie and put a bead of hot glue on it, drop it on the gang of connectors and you're good. Easy to take off when you want and not as messy as most adhesives.

Steve

[Michaelinpr]

I like shoe goo. Just a thin bead between the connector and the FBL unit applied with a small stiick or old flybar rod. Shoe goo self levels and makes a nice clean look if you apply just a little.

[chris-fry]

It was just a small oversight on my part, and it about cost me a machine. So, my machine is free now, so to speak.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled build thread.

[lowey79]

Originally Posted by Michaelinpr

I aslo noticed that with 17mm I had to use cyclic ring taper which was a first for me. My elevator link was hitting the anti rotation bracket just ever so slightly.

I found the same thing with 18mm spacing. With 21mm, the problem was non existent.

[vburge]

Originally Posted by Michaelinpr

I like shoe goo. Just a thin bead between the connector and the FBL unit applied with a small stiick or old flybar rod. Shoe goo self levels and makes a nice clean look if you apply just a little.

I use liquid electrical tape on my connectors. It holds very well and cleans off much easier than hot glue. There are also several different colors to choose from.

[dunkonu23]

Now, we build the tail assembly. This is a super critical step. Everything must work together to form a buttery smooth, fall under its own weight assembly. Later, I will post a link to a tech tip video that will show you how to make your tail "fall under its own weight" smooth.



All the parts to build the tail system are found in Bag 9. The build of this assembly starts on page 25 and ends on page 27of the manual.



Here are the individual parts bags that hold the parts needed to complete page 25 of the manual.



Here, I have laid out the parts needed to complete page 25, Parts are shown as they fit.

The parts are:

Four M3 x 6mm button head screws;
Two M3 x 10mm button head screws;
Left tail plate;
Right tail plate;
Tail case hub;
Arm support;
Tail shaft bevel gear set;
and the plate spacer.



The separate bevel gear fits into the bearing in the tail case hub as shown. It will be tight. A hint here is to put the tail case hub and the bevel gear into your freezer for about 10 minutes...



Note the ridge on the bevel gear. The ridge must fit flush against the bearing. If you put your tail case hub and the bevel gear into the freezer...



... slide the gear in to the bearing now. Note that inside the tail case hub is a spacer that the gear slides into, as well. The spacer must be aligned before you slide gear into the hub. Also note the ridge on the gear is flush against the bearing.



This is the right tail plate. Note the small machined posts on the right side of the plate and the indent on the left side of the hub.



This is the outward facing side of the right tail plate. Note the indents--no posts.



This is the tail pitch arm support. Note the posts machined into the part.



The right tail plate and the arm support fit together on the right side of the tail case hub. The easiest way to install these parts is to slide an M3 x 10mm button head screw through the arm support (don't forget to apply blue thread locker, first), then...



Align the parts and lightly tighten the screws. Why lightly? The plate spacer needs to be installed--we'll do that last.



Next, slide the bevel gear with the tail output though the right tail plate as shown.



Slide the bevel gear/tail output shaft assembly in until it meshes with the tail case bevel gear. Then slide the left tail plate over the tail output shaft's left side as shown.



Use two M3 x 6mm button head screws with blue thread locker and thread them through the tail plate into the tail case hub, as shown.



Next, slide the plate spacer into place as shown. Squeeze the plates together...



While squeezing the tail plates together, tighten the screws for both tail plates.



Finally, use the two remaining M3 x 6mm button head screws to install the plate spacer. Do not forget blue thread locker!

Next, we continue with the tail.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

From this point on, while building the tail, concentrate on smooth operation. It is much easier to make things smooth step by step than it is to find the source of rough operation later. Most folks who have tail issues with the Legend Rush 750 do not follow the steps in this tech tip:

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=12

Follow them now, and you'll save tons of time later! This tail is a work of art, but it has very tight tolerances. Make sure yours is just as smooth a mine in the video and you'll have trouble free tail control.



Page 26 has us installing the tail pitch slider, the tail pitch arm, and tail pitch links. This bag is part of Bag 9.



Parts except the links and their shoulder screws are shown here:

Slider assembly (pre assembled, but use a 9mm wrench to take it apart and check for thread locker--use blue to reassemble);
Lever (pitch arm);
Ball link;
Four M2.5 x 6mm cap head screws;
Slider arm;
and two Pin screws.



The lever is oriented as shown. It has a figure 8 cutout on one side that fits over posts machined into the slider arm.



Use blue thread locker on two of the M2.5 x 6mm cap screws...



... to install the lever to the slider.



Next, even though the manual says to use blue thread locker to install the ball link to the lever, I used red as it matches installation of all other links (thanks for pointing that out, Ivan).



This shows the proper orientation of the ball link--it needs to point down so the link on the tail control rod can be installed.



Next, use blue thread locker on the pin screws. The pin screws are affixed to each side of the slider arm. Be careful with thread locker here. Apply thread locker only to the threads of the pin screw.



Next, the slider fits into the slider arm by sliding it over the slider assembly as shown.

Now would be a good time to check the slider on the tail output shaft. It must move along the tail output shaft smoothly--in all positions! If not, check out the tech tip video!



Next, with the slider over the tail output shaft, and the slider arm pins slid into the slot on the slider, use two M2.5 x 6mm cap screws (with blue thread locker) to install the slider to the support arm. Check for smooth movement of the entire assembly at this point. If yours is not smooth, check each part individually. On my slider assembly, I had to lightly file the slot in the slider to make sure the pins slid smoothly as I moved the lever.



Next, we will install the links to the pitch slider arm assembly. To do this, you will need the links and two shoulder screws. This is a good time to test fit of the shoulder screws and links. If the shoulder screws are tight in the link, check out the tech tip video. Also, do a test fit of the links into the slider. If they are tight, check out the tech tip video. Remember, these are VERY important steps! We want your tail operation to be buttery smooth!



Install the links into the slider using the shoulder screws. The links should move very freely in the slider!

Next, we finish the tail assembly.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Next we install the grips onto the tail output shaft and mate the links to the grips.

Remember: This tech tip video is your friend!

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...8&postcount=12

Page 27 of the manual...



The tail hub/grips comes assembled. Disassemble it. We do this for two reasons:

1. Check for thread locker on the M3 x 8mm cap screws used to hold the grips to the hub;
2. Make sure the thrust bearings are greased and assembled properly.



This shows the grip/hub assembly disassembled. The parts are laid out in order of reassembly. Remember, the thrust bearing races have different inner diameters. The larger inner diameter race is installed closer to the hub.



This is what you will need to reassemble the grip/hub. Blue thread locker and some type of grease for the thrust bearings. I use synthetic grease. Some folks use lithium grease.



My thrust bearings had very little grease from the factory.



I packed grease into both thrust bearings just like I did for the thrust bearings in the main grips, earlier.



As I did with the main grips, I assembled the bearings in this order on a hex driver:

Small ID bearing race facing to the left;
Thrust bearing ball back with opening facing to the left;
Large ID bearing race facing to the right;
and thrust washer.

Next, like I did on the main grips, I slid the hex driver with bearings into the grip and tipped the grip so the bearing/thrust washer fell into place. Repeat for the second grip.



Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 8mm cap head screw... slip the flat washer onto the screw now, too.



Install the M3 x 8mm cap head screw into the hub. Tighten. Once tight, check rotation of the grip. It should be smooth with little or no side to side or in/out slop.

Repeat for the second grip.



The grips are assembled. All that remains is to install them and the hub onto the tail output shaft. The M4 x 4mm set screw is used to accomplish that task.



The tail output shaft has a machined detent. When sliding on the grip/hub assembly onto the tail output shaft, the detent...



... must be aligned with the threaded hole in the tail hub/grip assembly.



Use blue thread locker on the M4 x 4mm set screw and install it as shown. Tighten it tight. There should be no slop of the grip/hub assembly on the tail output shaft.



Next, we install the links onto the grips. This is done with the shoulder screws. Use blue thread locker sparingly here. It is important to use only enough thread locker to keep the shoulder screw in place and not have it wick up into the link. I do this by applying thread locker into the threaded hole of the grips (this is shown in the tech tip video).



Carefully insert the shoulder screws through the links and then into the grip. Tighten very slowly. Slowly tightening might help keep thread locker from wicking into the link. If you see blue thread locker on the link, it has wicked. Clean all parts with alcohol and try again. When you have one link installed, check movement. It should be smooth. If not, check the tech tip video liked earlier in this post. If it's smooth, repeat this process with the other shoulder screw and link.



The completed tail assembly. All operation of the tail assembly at this point should be very smooth with no binding of any part. In fact, if you install tail blades at this point then tip up the assembly, the slider should fall with no help.

Next, we'll start on page 28 and build on!

Scott