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Old 02-18-2009, 09:07 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Read through the thread I address the grips and decided to switch to metal.
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Old 02-18-2009, 11:09 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ping View Post
Yea same points bind on mine. Are you setting Cyclic and Pitch separate, as long as you can get 13 degrees pitch without touching the frame your good. Then turn the head 90 degrees and check cyclic you should again get at least 10 degrees. Everything else is mixed inside the Vbar and toned down by the cyclic ring so the corners don't touch.
Yes I can get easy 13° collective pitch without binding, but when I add full cyclic input at 13° collective pitch the rods bind on the frame! I know this input is not used during flight even not on hard 3D but on the bench I get the binding!

Will check the cyclic pitch values this evening but I am sure I will get 10°!

I will also try to go to the outer holes on the servoarms!

Last edited by Libelle; 02-19-2009 at 02:34 AM..
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:39 PM   #63 (permalink)
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If your getting 13 pitch and 13 cyclic, that's 26 pitch in the corners of course it's going to bind. Set it up how I detailed. Set 13 degrees of pitch, then turn the head and set 10 degrees of cyclic. Then put the stick in a corner and increase the cyclic ring until the binding goes away.

At 0 pitch you'll still get full cyclic travel.
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:17 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Hallo ping,

I went to the outer holes on the servos now the rods are not 100% vertical but I think that doesn't matter because they are also not vertical on my Logo 400 which flies great!

Cyclic pitch is the value when collective pitch is at zero and cyclic input is given; right?

How do you set or limit the cyclic pitch with V-Stabi?

Which parameters?

Thanks
Martin
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Old 02-20-2009, 08:54 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Yes it's the value when 0 pitch is on the stick and full cyclic is applied. I asked the same question on the Vstabi forums. I don't think their is a way to electronically adjust it as the Vbar controls cyclic rate much differently then in a traditional head.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:44 AM   #66 (permalink)
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OK, I think I am ready to go!

Pitch is 13°, cyclic Pitch is 10°, Cyclic Ring is at 55 and I get no binding on maximum stick moves!

Now waiting for better weather
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:27 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Now you can share your V-bar config file

Wesp
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:41 AM   #68 (permalink)
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When it works in the air I will post the file!
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:42 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Have you had it up in the air? Look forward to reading about your experiences!
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:17 PM   #70 (permalink)
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my V-Bar setup first flight is this weekend.

Will compare to firends Skookom...and Trex600 GAUI 365

Wesp
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:05 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Have you had it up in the air? Look forward to reading about your experiences!
I have now a couple of flights on my Protos V-Stabi and all I can say is I love it
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:27 AM   #72 (permalink)
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I really need to stop reading through these threads, it only makes me spend more money...
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Protos 500... needs a Brain
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:45 AM   #73 (permalink)
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So will any1 share their V-Stabi config?
The on on v-stabi forum didnt work that well for me

Wesp
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:18 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Here is my file!
Attached Files
File Type: zip ProtosULTRA.zip (814 Bytes, 155 views)
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:52 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Anyone used a sk360 on the Protos? My swash driver has just arrived
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:49 PM   #76 (permalink)
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A friend has it on his. Works great.

V-Bar 4.0 here

Wesp
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:52 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Libelle/Martin
when you used the trex 500 balls in the Protos swash did you shorten the threads or add washers? I just tried to fit some and they go in slightly too far so I'm worried they will clamp up or sitffen the swash. Did you have to do anything?

Also I was going to use the slightly longer balls in the 500 pack for he swash driver and shorter ones for the links to the head. Is this what you used?
edit - Ok found the longer ball does not cause the problem so will use those for the swash driver and keep the Protos ball for the link to the head.

Last edited by MouldyRF; 04-27-2009 at 07:02 AM..
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:05 AM   #78 (permalink)
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New, longer arms- like Mikado (mill... no CNC). No more binding.
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Old 04-28-2009, 12:05 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MouldyRF View Post
I just tried to fit some and they go in slightly too far so I'm worried they will clamp up or sitffen the swash.
Yes thats right, I used some 2mm nuts to get them a little bit out!
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Old 04-28-2009, 01:50 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Sorry - yes I re-read the post and luckily, even though I'm away from home this week I have some of those with me Even though they are V thin they did the trick. However I still need to order the Mikado links as I could not make any combination of MSH/trex links work. The trex links are a bit too loose on the MSH rod which is a shame as I wont get to the state of being able to fly now til the weekend.

I had bought some JR rods but they are too BIG for the MSH rod ends <SIGH>
Be ready soon though
Thanks again
Cliff
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