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richmurphy83 · 06-08-2015, 09:19 AM

I bought a new to me radial 20 over the winter but until yesterday I had not flown it other than a test hover in the driveway. So after a long spring of projects I finally go around to installing and setting up the gv1.

I spent the first half a tank getting the needles somewhat dialed in and verified the governor was functioning properly. Once I was happy with that I did some circuits and then some loops and rolls, that's when things got interesting. It was super mushy around center stick on cyclic but when pushed further would over react.

It felt like too much expo so I landed and checked my radio settings and to my surprise I had none programmed in. So back up in the air it went and I chalked it up to the wind as it was very gusty and I'm not used to a flybar lol. It only got worse and I almost lost it a couple times so I decided to give up for the day. Upon landing and inspecting the heli I found the issue. The bronze bushing had fallen out of the washout assembly so it had major slop. When I looked even closer I noticed the aluminum washout hub was cracked.

When I got home I re installed the original plastic washout hub and will probably never have a problem with it again.

MotorRotor · 06-08-2015, 11:11 AM

That stock plastic washout hub is the same one that has been supplied for years with other Century helis. I have always used the stock washout hub on all of them and they have proven to be very reliable. Consequently I have never tried one of the optional aluminum ones.

Of note, is that the stock plastic ones have bronze slider bushings molded into each end. As a caution I would wick some thin cyano between it and the plastic molding

Just for your interest. I also found that most of the stock ball links initially fit pretty snug on the balls. If they are not "sized" with a sizing tool or using the "squeeze" method, you will find the response, specially in the hover and when using light service servos, to feel like there is some expo set on the cyclic channels.

What battery pack are you using on the EI unit? What EI unit are you using - the Zenoah, the HWC or the RCExcel?

You may be interested in posting your gasser heli info here:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=525918

Have fun with your G-20.

richmurphy83 · 06-08-2015, 12:16 PM

I am running a single 2000 mah lipo for both the rx and the ignition. I am using a castle bec to bring the voltage down and I'm running an ibec to isolate and be able to remotely kill the ignition. I'm pretty sure it had the hwc ignition, I had to splice regular servo connectors onto the stator gator in order to connect it.

MotorRotor · 06-09-2015, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richmurphy83

I am running a single 2000 mah lipo for both the rx and the ignition. I am using a castle bec to bring the voltage down and I'm running an ibec to isolate and be able to remotely kill the ignition. I'm pretty sure it had the hwc ignition, I had to splice regular servo connectors onto the stator gator in order to connect it.

When you said "...single 2000mah lipo, do you mean a single cell 1S/2000 mah or a 2cell 2S or 3cel 3S pack?

What model of Castle BEC?

What model of ibec?

richmurphy83 · 06-09-2015, 02:11 PM

2s lipo with the regular 10a castle BECpro. I know the BEC is on the low side of being adequate but I'm just a sport flier and having a flybar still it isn't really putting a huge load on the servos. For the IBEC I am running this one http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCIBEFV2.1.html I really prefer the tech areo IBEC but they were out of stock at the time.

I'm not really sure about battery life with this setup on this heli, but I did have the same battery and IBEC in a 20cc gas plane with HV servos and I could get about 5-6 flights at 10+ min and still have 75% battery.

MotorRotor · 06-09-2015, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richmurphy83

2s lipo with the regular 10a castle BECpro. I know the BEC is on the low side of being adequate but I'm just a sport flier and having a flybar still it isn't really putting a huge load on the servos. For the IBEC I am running this one http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCIBEFV2.1.html I really prefer the tech areo IBEC but they were out of stock at the time.

I'm not really sure about battery life with this setup on this heli, but I did have the same battery and IBEC in a 20cc gas plane with HV servos and I could get about 5-6 flights at 10+ min and still have 75% battery.

I am assuming the one battery feeds the Castle BEC for the Radio gear and the IBEC feds the EI. These should provide sufficient amps for both systems. As a heli motor runs constantly at the same high RPM you will find that its' EI will have a higher power consumption then those used on an airplane. Ditto for the flight servos, they too will generally have a higher power drain then on an airplane. So I would only caution you on monitoring the MAH/minute consumption overall through a couple of flights and then use that as a guide as to how many flights your pack is good for on the heli.

richmurphy83 · 06-09-2015, 10:30 PM

The battery goes into a switch then into the BEC then into the rx. From there the IBEC plugs into and is powered by the the rx and is controlled by one of the channels.

I am planning on keeping an eye on the battery till I get an idea of how long it will last.

06-08-2015, 09:19 AM	#1 (permalink)
richmurphy83 Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010	Felt like 100% expo I bought a new to me radial 20 over the winter but until yesterday I had not flown it other than a test hover in the driveway. So after a long spring of projects I finally go around to installing and setting up the gv1. I spent the first half a tank getting the needles somewhat dialed in and verified the governor was functioning properly. Once I was happy with that I did some circuits and then some loops and rolls, that's when things got interesting. It was super mushy around center stick on cyclic but when pushed further would over react. It felt like too much expo so I landed and checked my radio settings and to my surprise I had none programmed in. So back up in the air it went and I chalked it up to the wind as it was very gusty and I'm not used to a flybar lol. It only got worse and I almost lost it a couple times so I decided to give up for the day. Upon landing and inspecting the heli I found the issue. The bronze bushing had fallen out of the washout assembly so it had major slop. When I looked even closer I noticed the aluminum washout hub was cracked. When I got home I re installed the original plastic washout hub and will probably never have a problem with it again.

06-08-2015, 11:11 AM	#2 (permalink)
MotorRotor Registered Users Join Date: Nov 2004	That stock plastic washout hub is the same one that has been supplied for years with other Century helis. I have always used the stock washout hub on all of them and they have proven to be very reliable. Consequently I have never tried one of the optional aluminum ones. Of note, is that the stock plastic ones have bronze slider bushings molded into each end. As a caution I would wick some thin cyano between it and the plastic molding Just for your interest. I also found that most of the stock ball links initially fit pretty snug on the balls. If they are not "sized" with a sizing tool or using the "squeeze" method, you will find the response, specially in the hover and when using light service servos, to feel like there is some expo set on the cyclic channels. What battery pack are you using on the EI unit? What EI unit are you using - the Zenoah, the HWC or the RCExcel? You may be interested in posting your gasser heli info here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=525918 Have fun with your G-20. __________________ Phil Last edited by MotorRotor; 06-09-2015 at 12:44 PM..

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06-08-2015, 12:16 PM	#3 (permalink)
richmurphy83 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Feb 2010	I am running a single 2000 mah lipo for both the rx and the ignition. I am using a castle bec to bring the voltage down and I'm running an ibec to isolate and be able to remotely kill the ignition. I'm pretty sure it had the hwc ignition, I had to splice regular servo connectors onto the stator gator in order to connect it.

06-09-2015, 02:11 PM	#5 (permalink)
richmurphy83 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Feb 2010	2s lipo with the regular 10a castle BECpro. I know the BEC is on the low side of being adequate but I'm just a sport flier and having a flybar still it isn't really putting a huge load on the servos. For the IBEC I am running this one http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCIBEFV2.1.html I really prefer the tech areo IBEC but they were out of stock at the time. I'm not really sure about battery life with this setup on this heli, but I did have the same battery and IBEC in a 20cc gas plane with HV servos and I could get about 5-6 flights at 10+ min and still have 75% battery.

06-09-2015, 10:30 PM	#7 (permalink)
richmurphy83 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Feb 2010	The battery goes into a switch then into the BEC then into the rx. From there the IBEC plugs into and is powered by the the rx and is controlled by one of the channels. I am planning on keeping an eye on the battery till I get an idea of how long it will last.

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