Naza H Build Thread - Set up explained

[Tahoe Ed]

I am running a DS650 and it looks like it is working ok. I may take it apart and look at the gears, but when testing it on the bench in HH the tail rotor moves smoothly to compensate for rotation but that is different to the reactions to flight. The Assistant is the first place I checked and the only adjustment that is available is the endpoint travel. More testing and flying. The one thing that I did not do yesterday was the auto trim flight. There was a slight drift that should be able to be tuned out with that.

V1.02 of the software is up now so I may go ahead and load that while I am at it.

[nightflyr]

I do not use the 650 servo much, so I can not comment on how well it will perform.

I have been going over my install and decided to secure all connections ( which happen to be quite a few ) with hot glue.










Might be a good idea to double check yours.

[Thunder Fighter]

I always use hot glue as well, but in this case the setup is only on the heli for a few test flights so I just check the cables before each flight.

Ed, can you give some more description of the problem, you are saying a kick, not a wag. Is it happening after you input to the tail or randomly?

If after input you might want to reduce your stop gains on the tail, they are on the advanced panel.

If it is randomly, it is not normally vibration, that will cause a slow drift. Static is often the cause of a kick, is the heli a belt drive?

BTW: I use a DS650 in my Logo 600 and there is nothing wrong with them, if yours is functioning ok, then there should be no need to upgrade the servo.

//Dennis.

[Tahoe Ed]

TF,

It is consistent kick of about 6" in both directions. The tail responds appropriately to stick input. My 550 is shaft drive to the tail. I do not have a stock tail servo mount. I could not get used to the 550 mount under the tail mount. I could never adjust the travel and center to my satisfaction. I moved it outside the frame for access and upgraded the servo to the DS650. First next to the tail and then later toward the frame to adjust the balance with a CF rod to the tail. I do not have any rod supports as they don't match the original mounts and the CF tube is larger than the SS rod.

[Thunder Fighter]

So that sounds like tail wag if it goes back and forth 6" at a time, does it happen faster as you increase the head speed?

Obviously getting the mechanicals right is first, so a nice smooth action is required. take the link off the servo and move the tail from that end, if it is smooth and doesn't stick or feel stiff then start reducing the gain. Otherwise go through each of the moving parts one by one to see if there is anything sticking, it doesn't take much to cause an issue.

When reducing the gain you should take it down 10% and see if it makes a difference, reducing the speed of the wag or the distance. If not the problem is problem is elsewhere.

//Dennis.

[Tahoe Ed]

Dennis, it was most apparent in Manual. Not so much in ATTI or GPS ATTI. Mechanicals appear smooth as well as the servo. I am still testing the mechanicals. I do know that it doesn't talk much to F things up. Gain was at 16% when this happened. I move the gain up to 40% but have not flown it again. That is a Christmas day event.

If that does not yield any results, then I may have to take it to a different level. I am hoping that the suggestions that I got here will fix the problem.

[salience]

Originally Posted by Tahoe Ed

TF,
<snip> I do not have any rod supports as they don't match the original mounts and the CF tube is larger than the SS rod.

I'd try a support of some sort, make a custom one just for a trial. After seeing how boom support rods vibrate like heck at certain motor speeds, probably a resonance effect according to vibration frequency and rod length, one might think an unsupported control rod may do this too, especially at certain motor speeds. Put the support not at half-way but at some point where the lengths on either side are not in a simple ratio.

[alchemy66]

"QUOTE" Next is the IMU mounting. Remember the measurements that I had you make this is where you enter the measurement in CM from the main shaft to the center of the IMU. Remember Green is Negative, Red is Positive. If you click on advanced you can enter your Y and Z settings from GOG. For most heli installations the Y will be "0"

Quick question, I cannot get a negative (green). I've clicked in the box and pressed down cursor, I get a "-" but the digits are not green. Might be me being thick but how do I input a negative value if the above doesn't work??

Be Advised there will be more Q's to come!!

[nightflyr]

The numerals do not change colors.. you need to have ( - ) in front of the value.

[alchemy66]

Thanks Nightflyr

[Tahoe Ed]

Ok, found out a few things about the tail set up in Assistant. If you look on the bottom of Assistant you will see the mode that you are in and whether you are in HH or Rate. It also shows the gain that the assistant is seeing. DJI is recommending 40% for a good starting point. Since every Tx is different you need to adjust the gain in the Tx while watching what is happening in Assistant. My JR9503 needed to be at 50 for Assistant to show 40%. The ball on my tail servo was in the 3rd of 4 holes, I dropped it down to the second hole and made sure that there was no binding and adjusted the travel down a little bit. I am going to balance the main rotor blades and that should do it.

[jimbo24]

Does anyone know if I have to reprogram the esc with ATV adjustments commonly needed for the esc to arm? Do I use governor mode? Or does Naza somehow take care of all of that?

Thx. Merry Christmas.

[gpbill]

I believe if you start your setup in your TX with a new model you will need to also reset the ATV of the ESC.
I had forgot to do this and my heli would spin-up without throttle input when flipping the TH switch.

[Aaron Hartwell]

Tahoe, great thread! Thanks for helping me with my set-up.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=483511

I just took my Naza H out and put it through some forward flight. It's amazing! All three flight modes are rock solid in hover.

Have you done any tests where you're in fast forward flight and switch to GPS mode? If so, have you been able to get the heli to stop suddenly without any bouncing?

If I'm moving forward at a good clip in manual flight mode and then suddently switch to ATTI GPS mode the heli slams on the brakes and stops pretty quickly but it bobs 3 or 4 times before really locking in.

Aaron

[Thunder Fighter]

Originally Posted by Aaron Hartwell

Have you done any tests where you're in fast forward flight and switch to GPS mode? If so, have you been able to get the heli to stop suddenly without any bouncing?

If I'm moving forward at a good clip in manual flight mode and then suddently switch to ATTI GPS mode the heli slams on the brakes and stops pretty quickly but it bobs 3 or 4 times before really locking in.

I have tried it a couple of times but I don't think it is designed to do this, it is meant to be enabled in a hover with the controls at center. It was so violent in stopping mine that I was worried it would boom strike, but I do have the control rates set up high in the 3d range.

//Dennis.

[gpbill]

Hey guys, after initially installing and testing my NAZA-H I found it required quite a number of clicks of forward and right trim in the TX to get the heli to hover fairly well in manual mode and after getting the trims set it did quite well in atti and gps modes.

Thinking I could remove some of the trim needed in the TX by going back and checking the swash for level again, I found the right side servo link to be out about two turns and fixed that. The need for forward trim was likely due to testing without the canopy on making the heli a little tail heavy.

Then thought I should do a reset of the software and start from scratch which I did. Also set all the TX limits back to the starting position like starting from scratch.

Now when flying in normal mode she sits in a hover as well as can be expected but when switching to atti or gps modes she drifts to the right just as it did before doing the link adjustment. In gps the drift will only be a few feet to the right then stops and maintains position there.

Any ideas?

[Tahoe Ed]

Bill did you do the Auto Trim Flight? Also you can try and rotate the GPS to closer match your magnetic declination. It also accounts for interference from your electronics. On guy had drift, made the adjustment and he was stable in ATTI and GPS. It is worth a try. Normally in the multi rotors it is a balance issue but that is not the case in most SRH. Check that your Naza is mounted level on the frame and the frame is level to the ground. Remember to allow the Naza to complete its start up routine before touching the sticks. The gyros and accelerometers calibrate at that time. Hope this helps, it is a shotgun approach to your possible problems.

[gpbill]

No, didn't do the auto trim flight as I am still using a flybar on this heli.

Nothing was changed in the setup of NAZA physically so I can't get my head around why it wont hover the same in atti/gps as it does in normal like it did in the beginning.
I thought I may have missed a TX setting but have been through it many times now and don't find any thing.

[Thunder Fighter]

Originally Posted by gpbill

Now when flying in normal mode she sits in a hover as well as can be expected but when switching to atti or gps modes she drifts to the right just lid before doing the link adjustment. In gps the drift will only be a few feet to the right then stops and maintains position there.

Any ideas?

That is pretty much what mine has been doing, nice and stable in a hover but right drift in ATTI mode and when I enable GPS it moves a couple of meters right before settling to a nice locked position. Mine is different in that it is FBL but I didn't have a chance to do an auto trim as I only had the NAZA in that model for a short time to test it. I will see what it does in the bigger heli I have just fitted it to for some flights today.

//Dennis.

[gpbill]

It doesn't appear, according to the quick start guide, that the auto trim flight will do any thing for a fly-bared heli though I'm tempted to give it a try to see if it makes a difference.

Another thing I just noticed is, that while doing the second step of the compass calibration the tail is to be pointed up and I did it other way around. Don't know how much difference it makes but I'll redo that next time out.

I changed the recommended switch on my Futaba 8fg from the sd to the sc switch. They are right next to one another, the latter is nearly twice the height and much easier to toggle with out looking down for it.