Christmas Upgrades

[gtrsteele]

Merry Christmas everyone. Share you upgrades here. I'm Evolutionizing my Legacy. Looks sharp!

[crashcopterman]

And that canopy shows up very well, too, I'm sure you'll like it!

Steve

[satgod]

Other than toni's battery trays and a few very small parts there isnt much that needs to upgrade on a RUSH

I love all of mine

[Atomic Skull]

Originally Posted by satgod

Other than toni's battery trays and a few very small parts there isnt much that needs to upgrade on a RUSH

I love all of mine

While I found fewer things than usual that needed improvement on the Rush, I still found plenty:

Replaced the steel washers here with aluminum dress washers that grip better and won't scar up the aluminum.



Similar to the above I replaced the 7mm steel washers here with some aluminum C washers that were an exact fit (7mm) and won't bow in slightly as the steel washers do or scar the aluminum.



Purely a cosmetic upgrade here. I replaced the m4 cap screws and washers here with m4 countersunk dress washers and screws. Care had to be taken to use a screw that would not intrude into the boom on the boom clamp. (with countersunk screws the lenght includes the head so an 8mm countersunk screw is shorter than an 8mm cap head)





Added the frame strengthening plate from the 700 Evo. Also I am running a Trex 700 auto gear and Trex 700N front TT gear which increases the tail ratio from 4.3:1 to 4.95:1. Unlike with the 700E gear this is a drop in fit that does *not* require slotting the frame (the 700N gear is 21t vs 22t for the 700E gear).



The new front TT gear does need to be modded slightly, the hub that sticks up above the spur gear must be sanded down slightly or it will rub on the maingear. Also with both the 700N gear *and* the original Rush gear I found that there was a bit of vertical play in the front drive gear that needed to be shimmed out or else the spur gear would move up and down slightly as the two bevel gears went around (this was caused by low and high spots on the bevel gears). I fixed this by adding 0.1mm shims to each end of the shaft and then adjusting the two bevel gears so that the high spots on both do not come together (you could tell where this was the case by a tight spot in the gear mesh)



Replaced the link balls on the bellcranks with longer swashplate balls. Normally the aileron links are slanted out, using the longer balls will correct this.



Replaced the 8mm steel washers on the ends of the bellcrank support rod with M3 countersunk aluminum washers. Originally I just removed them because they caused drag on the arms by touching the outside race of the bearings. I eventually figured out that this was to protect the bearings from side loads so I put these countersunk dress washers (which are 8mm like the stock washers) on instead. They serve the same function but won't cause drag on the arm. Additionally I shimmed up the bellcranks with 0.1mm washers to remove sideways play (I left a tiny amount of sideways play so they would not be sideloaded, this is necessary due to the lack of a collar between the bearings inside the bellcranks and to protect the frame bearings from being squeezed together which would cause them to wear out prematurely.

I also found you can use 8mm screws here instead of 6mm (or 10mm with countersunk screws)



I also have plans to replace the wire pushrod and plastic guides with an Align CF pushrod and it's single guide for a cleaner looking tailboom and possibly putting CF tubes with aluminum endcaps over the pushpull rods.

Quick UK heavy duty landing gear (which are basically 700 size Gorilla Gear) are a direct fit on the Rush 750 with no redrilling required. You get about an inch of extra ground clearance on the tail and a wider stance which would be useful on a stretch or if you are flying off tall grass.

The screw hole for the head button doesn't have enough thread for the screw. After looking this up it seems all of the hubs are like this. I fixed that with an M3 plug tap. I just put a drop of oil into the hole and carefully threaded the flutes of the plug tap in till it hit bottom then put the handle on and turned it the rest of the way through. The existing threads will feed the tap through and keep it straight.

Also the screw holes for the button heads in the main bearing blocks that retain the bearings don't have enough thread for a standard 6mm button head (the stock screws are slightly short of 6mm) I wanted to replace all of the crappy 10.9 button heads with some good 12.9 ones (10.9 button heads strip easily) so I fixed them the same way (the last 1 mm of the tap hole through the block isn't tapped).

[gtrsteele]

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

While I found fewer things than usual that needed improvement on the Rush, I still found plenty:

Replaced the steel washers here with aluminum dress washers that grip better and won't scar up the aluminum.



Similar to the above I replaced the 7mm steel washers here with some aluminum C washers that were an exact fit (7mm) and won't bow in slightly as the steel washers do or scar the aluminum.



Purely a cosmetic upgrade here. I replaced the m4 cap screws and washers here with m4 countersunk dress washers and screws. Care had to be taken to use a screw that would not intrude into the boom on the boom clamp. (with countersunk screws the lenght includes the head so an 8mm countersunk screw is shorter than an 8mm cap head)





Added the frame strengthening plate from the 700 Evo. Also I am running a Trex 700 auto gear and Trex 700N front TT gear which increases the tail ratio from 4.3:1 to 4.95:1. Unlike with the 700E gear this is a drop in fit that does *not* require slotting the frame (the 700N gear is 21t vs 22t for the 700E gear).



The new front TT gear does need to be modded slightly, the hub that sticks up above the spur gear must be sanded down slightly or it will rub on the maingear. Also with both the 700N gear *and* the original Rush gear I found that there was a bit of vertical play in the front drive gear that needed to be shimmed out or else the spur gear would move up and down slightly as the two bevel gears went around (this was caused by low and high spots on the bevel gears). I fixed this by adding 0.1mm shims to each end of the shaft and then adjusting the two bevel gears so that the high spots on both do not come together (you could tell where this was the case by a tight spot in the gear mesh)



Replaced the link balls on the bellcranks with longer swashplate balls. Normally the aileron links are slanted out, using the longer balls will correct this.



Replaced the 8mm steel washers on the ends of the bellcrank support rod with M3 countersunk aluminum washers. Originally I just removed them because they caused drag on the arms by touching the outside race of the bearings. I eventually figured out that this was to protect the bearings from side loads so I put these countersunk dress washers (which are 8mm like the stock washers) on instead. They serve the same function but won't cause drag on the arm. Additionally I shimmed up the bellcranks with 0.1mm washers to remove sideways play (I left a tiny amount of sideways play so they would not be sideloaded, this is necessary due to the lack of a collar between the bearings inside the bellcranks and to protect the frame bearings from being squeezed together which would cause them to wear out prematurely.

I also found you can use 8mm screws here instead of 6mm (or 10mm with countersunk screws)



I also have plans to replace the wire pushrod and plastic guides with an Align CF pushrod and it's single guide for a cleaner looking tailboom and possibly putting CF tubes with aluminum endcaps over the pushpull rods.

Quick UK heavy duty landing gear (which are basically 700 size Gorilla Gear) are a direct fit on the Rush 750 with no redrilling required. You get about an inch of extra ground clearance on the tail and a wider stance which would be useful on a stretch or if you are flying off tall grass.

The screw hole for the head button doesn't have enough thread for the screw. After looking this up it seems all of the hubs are like this. I fixed that with an M3 plug tap. I just put a drop of oil into the hole and carefully threaded the flutes of the plug tap in till it hit bottom then put the handle on and turned it the rest of the way through. The existing threads will feed the tap through and keep it straight.

Also the screw holes for the button heads in the main bearing blocks that retain the bearings don't have enough thread for a standard 6mm button head (the stock screws are slightly short of 6mm) I wanted to replace all of the crappy 10.9 button heads with some good 12.9 ones (10.9 button heads strip easily) so I fixed them the same way (the last 1 mm of the tap hole through the block isn't tapped).

Wow. You really put some thought into this. You must really love this heli.

[Atomic Skull]

Turns out the Align rudder pushrod is too short so I'm going to have to roll my own using a 6mm CF rod and a pair of m2.5 link rods and 6mm bicycle brake cable end caps.