BL Nano- Bog to HOT DOG

[kingmeow]

Originally Posted by Smok1n

So my question is - where can you get a bare connector for making a new battery cable?

Here:
http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...vr1dajnfti5qj5

If you don't want to crimp, they have one assembled with wire but wire is only 28 gauge.

http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...vr1dajnfti5qj5

Shipping is only $2.

[Smok1n]

Originally Posted by kingmeow

Here:
http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...vr1dajnfti5qj5

If you don't want to crimp, they have one assembled with wire but wire is only 28 gauge.

http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...vr1dajnfti5qj5

Shipping is only $2.

Thanks!

[737 Driver]

I am glad to see others are having the same dramatic results as I have.

I guess that confirms the theory about direct soldering to the ESC, upping the wire gauge and better connectors.

Happy Flying

[fac13]

Thanks for starting that thread mixfisto, and this one 737 Driver, they let me know I wasn't the only one unhappy with my mild upgrade.

A few more bits of information about my battery rewiring: -

I used 22awg stranded wire. This stuff is stiff but manageable, nothing to worry about.

This wire should be good for 10A continous and much more in bursts. It's probably overkill for this purpose.

My wiring, including the new connector, weighed about 1.2g. This is about 0.7g more than stock.

My unloaded head speed (zero pitch, taped to the bench) is the same as it was before I rewired - about 3800 rpm at 68% Tx governed. That's according to the helitach iphone app, which is well worth investigating by the way.

But the main thing is it now doesn't bog when I pitch pump

Next on the agenda is some battery life tests.

[P@reez]

Originally Posted by kingmeow

Here:
http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...vr1dajnfti5qj5

If you don't want to crimp, they have one assembled with wire but wire is only 28 gauge.

http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...vr1dajnfti5qj5

Shipping is only $2.

Astroid design sells them cheaper (60 cents)
http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...e-battery-plug

I just ordered some.

[kpod]

Did you get all of them? Apparently they are a hot commodity now. I was waiting to order the connector when I placed my wicked motor order and now the wicked motor is in stock but no connectors.

[Bhujang]

Originally Posted by kpod

Did you get all of them? Apparently they are a hot commodity now. I was waiting to order the connector when I placed my wicked motor order and now the wicked motor is in stock but no connectors.

It's wild and that set up comes with the connector...

[kpod]

Originally Posted by Bhujang

It's wild and that set up comes with the connector...

I ordered the wicked kit and it connects to a 300x. I was hoping to order the connector for my mild kit that I currently have though at the same time though.

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by kpod

I ordered the wicked kit and it connects to a 300x. I was hoping to order the connector for my mild kit that I currently have though at the same time though.

What's your order #?

Sent from tapatalk

[Bhujang]

Originally Posted by kpod

I ordered the wicked kit and it connects to a 300x. I was hoping to order the connector for my mild kit that I currently have though at the same time though.

Whoops sorry! Thought you meant the 16500 motor size for the nano...

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by kpod

I ordered the wicked kit and it connects to a 300x. I was hoping to order the connector for my mild kit that I currently have though at the same time though.

Never mind, just put 2 and 2 together with your name

[Bladecpnitro]

Hey 737 Driver, my motor slipped away from the pinion today and crashed me. I just had done a forward flip up 20' I guess and it went strait to the ground. No harm done except the pain of getting the motor back in. I attempted to glue it in and took too long to get it in and the glue set up and had to all be scraped out before I could get the motor back in. While I had it apart I went ahead and ran the battery lead strait to the ESC the way you originally did it with the stock connector and servo wire.

Got all that done and the tail motor wouldn't work. Apparently the sticky tape under the esc had pulled loose my tail FET which I had replaced the 3rd day I had the Nano. So I had to resolder the tail FET and all is well. Rain and dark set in so only hovered in the house but can't wait to take it outside.

It was already doing considerably better after resoldering the esc leads to the board.

It would be nice in the future if the brushless kits came with a heavier battery lead and connector already soldered to the esc or at least in the kit with the idea of starting off that way.

[mixfisto]

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

It would be nice in the future if the brushless kits came with a heavier battery lead and connector already soldered to the esc or at least in the kit with the idea of starting off that way.

Yeah, I think it's probably the way to do it. Would be top shelf from the get-go

[Dylwad]

Yeah but not all Mild kits bogged using the stock battery wires, I think it might have something to do with the wires being frayed where they enter the main board, or a dodgy connector.

You guys are a small sample out of the 500+ Mild kits out there, if the stock wires weren't up to the task for 99% of people you would hear a lot more complaints!

I will most likely make the Mild kits come with the wire and connector though, and will be the same price as the Wild kits

[Smok1n]

Dylan,

I gotta tell you - I am loving this mild kit! So glad my stock motor burned out and I couldn't find a replacement.

BTW: I did the heavier wire direct to the ESC, but only because I had a flaky battery connector anyway. I was having no bogging issues with the stock wires soldered to the stock location. Running the suggested throttle range - 68 % flat curve in Norm (now IU1) and 75 % flat curve in IU2. (DX6i)

[mixfisto]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

Yeah but not all Mild kits bogged using the stock battery wires, I think it might have something to do with the wires being frayed where they enter the main board, or a dodgy connector.

You guys are a small sample out of the 500+ Mild kits out there, if the stock wires weren't up to the task for 99% of people you would hear a lot more complaints!

I will most likely make the Mild kits come with the wire and connector though, and will be the same price as the Wild kits

And that is why Dylan rocks

[Bladecpnitro]

I just tested my battery to esc mod this morning and its worse than ever before. With my best lipo I'm now reaching low voltage cut off at 3.5 minutes where it was 4.5 minutes with my lesser batteries after resoldering the ESC to the board. My guess is I didn't get a good solder joint to the esc with the battery leads. A good solder connection makes a lot of difference too.


I took a short cut and soldered the leads to the front of the board where the pos/neg pins come through the board. I'll probably have to move the leads to the back of the esc where the other wires are connected to the esc.

[kpod]

My bl mild kit actually flew very well with the stock wires and I went back to check and I don't have them soldered to the esc. I resoldered them to the front of the board where the esc wires solder to, not directly to the esc. I didn't want them pulling on the esc and breaking my other solder joints.

The only reason I believe my initial set up didn't work as well as it should have was that when I soldered the esc to the board, I believe my poor soldering skills loosened the connection the battery wires made to the back of the board. I completely removed them and soldered to the front of the board and the problem was solved.

I'm starting to believe my current bog issues are 100% battery related. I have 4 eflight 35c batteries coming to test this theory out.

I still like the idea of the thicker gauged wire. I plan on dropping in the wild motor to give it a try. The thicker wire should guarantee that we get the most out of the mild setup as well. I just hope the added benefit isn't outweighed by the weight of the wire.

[Bladecpnitro]

My situation has gotten worse. I took it back in to recheck my solder joints and now the main motor won't spool up. It starts but goes right back off.

Anybody have any ideas on where to look for the problem?

The only thing I've done different was to relsolder my battery plug on to the heavier wire because it broke loose bending it around to plug it into the battery and move the battery wires to the back of the ESC.

Could it possibly be my main motor FET?