Tools

[lennyk]

I have found that the bent tip pliers come together fairly parallel than a straight pliers
at least good enough for smaller motors.

[HeliFX]

not so much a tool but a question about a method of removing insulation.

Has anyone found a nice, clean and quick way to remove insulation off copper wires ?

apart from scraping with knife I do recall reading somewhere about using aspirin but not sure how to apply it. Is it heated and wire dip in it .
anyone know or did I read this wrong.

[ZuvieleTeile]

Originally Posted by HeliFX

not so much a tool but a question about a method of removing insulation.

Has anyone found a nice, clean and quick way to remove insulation off copper wires ?

apart from scraping with knife I do recall reading somewhere about using aspirin but not sure how to apply it. Is it heated and wire dip in it .
anyone know or did I read this wrong.

Hey HeliFX,
you got that Aspirin solution backwards.
People are sitting there, looking at those wire ends, don't want to scrape because that could put some nicks in the wire and creates a breaking point, they don't want to use any dangerous acids or otherwise harmful solvents, they don't want to use sandpaper or other abrasive tools.

And all this staring at the wires and chasing for ideas gives them a very bad headache.
That's, what they need the Aspirin for. . .

[Stolla]

Heating up with gasflame then dipping in methylated spirits seems to work but i use the scraping method

[HeliFX]

I'll just to stick to scraping with a knife.

cheers

Originally Posted by Stolla

Heating up with gasflame then dipping in methylated spirits seems to work but i use the scraping method

[HeliFX]

thought I share this link regarding where I read the part about aspirin used for stripping wires.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hlight=aspirin

if you look further down on that post you see a neat little stripping tool vid.
now that would take no time and clean.

[ZuvieleTeile]

Originally Posted by HeliFX

thought I share this link regarding where I read the part about aspirin used for stripping wires.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hlight=aspirin

if you look further down on that post you see a neat little stripping tool vid.
now that would take no time and clean.

I was just teasing your a little bit. . .

[HeliFX]

How's the headache ?

anti-rotate pin make me a bit nervous

Originally Posted by ZuvieleTeile

I was just teasing your a little bit. . .

[ZuvieleTeile]

Since the motor is spinning now nicely, my headaches are gone suddenly. . .

Which pin version did you use?
Since I might have to take the motor apart and rewind later, I put some more work into it with the set screw.
Question about yours. Where did you get the isolation tubes from?
I had some black stuff in stock from Brocott, but was looking for the colored, shiny ones what everyone is using.
I found some on the net, but they have all been manufacturers and I didn't get a source for small quantities

[HeliFX]

Since where on the this theme regarding headache I decided not tap with M2 and just use the traditional method via scorpion style. 1.5 mm straight pin.
It would completely suck if I screw it up with M2 screw. next time.

funny you ask about Glass fiber sleeves. I too have the brocotts black sleeve asked about colored version but didn't get a response back. Seems like black is it.
Preferred colors for me would have been 1mm white and 2.5 mm green.
Started poking around here in town (T.O.) as usual nothing remotely close.

tried source in the US kinda "mcmaster" but not sure if there correct or similar since they don't have proper photo's

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ca...eeving/=gv57no

seems like electrical insulation sleeve are all in China. Do search on ebay you'll find plenty but not about spend 30 buck shipping for insulation tubes.

so my answer - no clue

I'm even having a hard time finding loctite 648 piano wire local .

finding material has been exhausting at times.

Originally Posted by ZuvieleTeile

Since the motor is spinning now nicely, my headaches are gone suddenly. . .

Which pin version did you use?
Since I might have to take the motor apart and rewind later, I put some more work into it with the set screw.
Question about yours. Where did you get the isolation tubes from?
I had some black stuff in stock from Brocott, but was looking for the colored, shiny ones what everyone is using.
I found some on the net, but they have all been manufacturers and I didn't get a source for small quantities

[Stolla]

look for automotive rewinding shop ask them for some

[xfactor6]

What props is everyone using to flatten the wiring? any links appreciated.
Thanks,

[belcom]

For what it's worth... I found these pliers at Home Depot and thought it is close enough to what I needed.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/irwi...-pliers/904225

I did not know what will come out of my experience trying to rewind my first motor so did not want to spend a load of money on all the recommended tools.

So I have modified these Irwin brand pliers and went through a few refinements in the process. First the ends were thicker and had flat surface, then I had to make them even thinner to be able to get even further between the windings to decrease the change of slipping. Nevertheless the wires still slipped out and got nicked. Then I thought about making a grove but the surface was wide enough to fit two grooves. So that is what I did. Powered grind wheel, dremel then 400, 1000 and finally 2000 grit sand paper to finish it off. Its pretty much polished mirror like surface but because the ends are so thin if you manage to press hard enough for it to slip backwards there is a good chance to strip the wire insulation still. But once I learned how and where to properly apply this custom tool it worked pretty well. Mind you since this was my first experiment I only tried it with 1.3mm thick wire so far and was successful at doing so in the end after many trials.

Here's the result and it seems to work ok as long as there's ample space to grab the wire and press carefully to compress it against the tooth. Having 2 grooves in the upper and lower jaw really helps make sure wires don't slip out sideways. But like mentioned above there is still a slight chance of slippage backwards. Have to be careful with that and it will work fine.

[HeliFX]

whatever works .. works.

for me the Knipex pliers are invaluable plus with the current rewinding method I use I finding I need them less and less. Mostly with the "outside jump" method.

everyone finds there own rhythm

[ZuvieleTeile]

The back slipping issue is what makes the Knipex superior . . . because the jaws move parallel.
I ground the jaws asymmetrical to better account for the shape of the slot.

[belcom]

Originally Posted by ZuvieleTeile

The back slipping issue is what makes the Knipex superior . . . because the jaws move parallel.
I ground the jaws asymmetrical to better account for the shape of the slot.

I fully understand the benefits and will order a set in due time Good tip on the asymmetrical shape of the ends

Which is a better size though 150 or 180 ?

[powercroco]

150 is big enough also for the thickest wires I have used (2,5mm round)

[Pampaflieger]

I found out a "anti finger snap tool" yesterday. Since my fingers are not to strong to hold the rotor of a pyro 800. I used a simply cord.

[powercroco]

good idea.

[belcom]

A little update on my further efforts to improve the tool set I have

Finally broke down and bought the Knipex 86 03 150 pliers. Expensive little buggers but hopefully worth it going forward.

Used a grinding wheel first to get rid of the bulk of the metal first and finished it off with dremel grinding wheel then polished up to 2000 grit. Came out as expected and no surprises.





I also got the the insulation tester and a new multimeter.