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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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06-26-2015, 02:01 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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700E Motor Mount Bolts Waaaaay Tight
New-to-me 700E motor swap ended quick. Must be red Loctite?!?!? I tried conducting heat in with my big soldering iron with no luck. Now I'm contemplating coming at the area with a small butane torch from the inside to heat the mount and soften whatever is holding these screws so secure - and without burning the side frames. I haven't stripped the heads yet but it seems any more pressure will either strip the heads or snap them off. Anyone experienced this? Tips?
I'm sure I could drill the heads off, get the mount out, and then safely heat it enough to get the remains of the screws out and save it as a last resort if they do strip. Or try the Dremel slot and flat blade technique.
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LHS Piuma Tandem X20S HW150v5 iKON 2 |
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06-26-2015, 02:09 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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I've used a propane torch and heated an old hex wrench red hot 2-3 times apllying it to the screw in between each heating to get the heat to loosen the retaining compound. Using a mini torch to heat the aluminum mount might be quicker, just point the flame away from the CF side plates. The screws should come lose.
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~Jim~ Goblin700 Gasser TRM-300, BD Axon, Align700E w/HC3SX, and a Goblin 380 w/BD3SX, using Futaba 14SGH |
06-26-2015, 02:13 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Use some solder on the iron to conduct the heat properly. It shouldn't stick to the screw.
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Current fleet: Goblin Thunder Sport, Trex 700L, Logo 600, Specter 700, TDR, OMP M1 - Vbar Control - 5" and 3" FPV racing quads and a Taranis Next heli(s): No idea. I have everything I wanted. |
06-26-2015, 02:19 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Thanks I'll try both of those!
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LHS Piuma Tandem X20S HW150v5 iKON 2 |
06-26-2015, 03:43 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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If you use the heated hex wrench be sure to hold it with pliers!!!
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~Jim~ Goblin700 Gasser TRM-300, BD Axon, Align700E w/HC3SX, and a Goblin 380 w/BD3SX, using Futaba 14SGH |
06-26-2015, 06:44 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
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Assault 700DFC | EXI 450DFC | Blade mCPX | DX6i
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06-26-2015, 10:44 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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What is the power of your solder iron? The weaker ones don't have the gusto to really cook up the loc tite. I have a 60W solder iron... and good Lord it takes care of that loc tite!
My weaker iron could not get it hot. Lukewarm... but not hot. My 60W iron would get the entire motor mount plate hot as well. I also used a flat tip to maximize surface area. The pointed tip can not contact as much. |
06-26-2015, 11:54 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Dude. Alcohol.
Use isopropyl alcohol, if it's possible to put that portion in a small cup of alcohol(while keep the rest of the motor dry, ofcourse). An overnight soak will do it. |
07-06-2015, 11:12 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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I have seen this issue also. This was on a buddy's 700, and when I built my 700 DFC, I made a change to the Lynx SS replacement screws. Of course this was before I did the original build, but just wanted to give you an option if you are ever able to get it out.
I think what I did was cut a slot that fit a big flat head screw driver and got my buddy's out. Went back with the SS ones on the rebuild.
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07-06-2015, 11:42 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Nothing worked. I drilled the heads off, then was able to cook what was left of the screws out of the mount with a full size propane torch after removing it from the heli and clamping it in a vise.
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LHS Piuma Tandem X20S HW150v5 iKON 2 |
07-13-2015, 12:10 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Yuck. Sorry to hear. Next time, try using nail polish remover because it softens acrylic based locktite. Soaking over night helps.
I have some spare motor mounts if you need them, but they're from a 700 dfc/v3.
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