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Old 12-03-2012, 04:28 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by caralmar View Post
Not for everyone. At 1.25, my OS37 pretty much drinks the fuel and bogs doing anything other than figure 8s.
Just finished the video and at the end of the flight he says he will probably end up at 3/4 - 1 turn.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Are you guys tuning the engine with the governor on or off?? You can do both but will probably get better results with it off.... Pitch pumps and flying around with no governor to see how the motor reacts and how fast it drops back into idle… it should very quickly. I was a little over 1 turn out before but felt it might be too much until I saw Bobby’s video … and I am almost positive I am at 1.25 on the needle (will confirm tonight). I don't know my head speed and hope to have it tached soon.

I hate to tell you guys I actually had a stop down timer set for one flight I got 8:32 sec flight on.. I was just piddling around and no 3D. My next flight however was just over 6 min…. I have a header and main tank and really just run the main tank down. I wonder if I am getting a little extra fuel from the header which I might not be noticing as much to give the extra :30 seconds or so. I run a fuel magnet in the main tank and cluck in the header. Also the heli is not covered in oil.. the normal amount I think.

The idea that one governor is able to keep up better than the other is interesting. I am using the Align one with magnet and align senor. O. also using a G-force T-Rex 600 metal fan I had laying around.

At 1.25 out (which again I am almost positive I am ) I am able to do all sorts of things without it bogging. Funnels, tic tocs, aileron tic tocs, etc. It is one zippy heli.

Wonder how much the weather is also affecting our diff. in performances.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:57 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tauscnc View Post
Are you guys tuning the engine with the governor on or off?? You can do both but will probably get better results with it off.... Pitch pumps and flying around with no governor to see how the motor reacts and how fast it drops back into idle… it should very quickly. I was a little over 1 turn out before but felt it might be too much until I saw Bobby’s video … and I am almost positive I am at 1.25 on the needle (will confirm tonight). I don't know my head speed and hope to have it tached soon.

I hate to tell you guys I actually had a stop down timer set for one flight I got 8:32 sec flight on.. I was just piddling around and no 3D. My next flight however was just over 6 min…. I have a header and main tank and really just run the main tank down. I wonder if I am getting a little extra fuel from the header which I might not be noticing as much to give the extra :30 seconds or so. I run a fuel magnet in the main tank and cluck in the header. Also the heli is not covered in oil.. the normal amount I think.

The idea that one governor is able to keep up better than the other is interesting. I am using the Align one with magnet and align senor. O. also using a G-force T-Rex 600 metal fan I had laying around.

At 1.25 out (which again I am almost positive I am ) I am able to do all sorts of things without it bogging. Funnels, tic tocs, aileron tic tocs, etc. It is one zippy heli.

Wonder how much the weather is also affecting our diff. in performances.
I just finished watching that video. I'm no Bobby Watts, but I can do the basic stuff he was doing no prob... but my heli is NOWHERE near as good in terms of power as the one in the video. It feels very much like anything hard it bogs the crap out of it and I have to hover it to get the headspeed to recover. Perhaps my vbar governor is not as good, but on my 700N, it works like a charm. I also run CoolPower 30% in my 700N.

1.25 on the needle is too rich on my engine. I can tell you that for sure! I broke the engine in using governor...flew a few flights at 1.5 on the needle, then slowly started leaning it until I got to 1 turn plus 4 clicks. I will go a few more clicks and perhaps end up just under a turn. There's got to be something wrong with my setup though, as the performance is world's apart from the video, and its not just the pilot. Those tic tocs he did are basic and there was no bogging.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Tauseef,
All the guys I fly with are tuning with the governor off. I have no personal experience since this is my first heli that will have a governor.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I'm closing in on 30 flights, these 2 gallons was cool power 30. I'm going to try rotor rage 15% next. It has a ton of power, way more than I need to learn collective mngmt.

I'm getting over 6 min on the tank, timer set at 6, still have about 1/4 to half inch of fuel in main tank.
No gov yet, still waiting on my silverline to show up.
my heli is not wet after a flight, but after about 6 - 8 flights it needs to be cleaned.

I have no idea where my needles are set, I just adjust them as needed. and that is 1 or 2 clicks at most per day.
just adding my input.

edit : oh yeah, I do like the NX4. it is getting more flights than any of my other heli's.
definitely a favorite.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:49 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

I just checked twice and my needle actually is set 2-3 clicks past 1.25 out. I have screwed it all the way in and now set it to 1.25 turns out. Mine is making great power and really a blast to fly. I have brought the 700 out each time but it gets no flights! I have not touched the low needle from what it was.

Here is a pic my needle is out 1.25 from closed and low is whatever is factory set.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:50 AM   #27 (permalink)
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http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/37sz-h-manual.pdf

It does not hurt to read the manual .
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Update on my tuning woes... I took apart my tank last night and discovered that the line going from the muffler to the tank has a hole in it!!! It must have rubbed on something and this prevents pressurization on the tank. The second issue I found is that the clunk line was developing a "bubble" at the point it connects to the clunk.

I threw both lines away and replaced the stock clunk line with Hayes black clunk line and put a new Dubro line from the muffler to the tank. Hopefully this solves my power problems!
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:28 PM   #29 (permalink)
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caralmar. that's good news. Bobby mentioned replacing the tank lines in his recent video due to splitting.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:46 PM   #30 (permalink)
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On the tail of the Heli. The 90 degree arm that controls the slider. There is a bolt there screws up from the bottom to attach to the boom. Included with my kit looks to be the bolt but it is longer than the manual says and a locknut was with it. Does this sound right. Anyone else using the locknut and bolt that was inside the tail package.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:20 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I used the locknut screw.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:18 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joallen001 View Post
On the tail of the Heli. The 90 degree arm that controls the slider. There is a bolt there screws up from the bottom to attach to the boom. Included with my kit looks to be the bolt but it is longer than the manual says and a locknut was with it. Does this sound right. Anyone else using the locknut and bolt that was inside the tail package.
One locknut and bolt secures the tail assembly to the boom. Another secures the tail pitch arm to the to the tail assembly.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:28 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caralmar View Post
Update on my tuning woes... I took apart my tank last night and discovered that the line going from the muffler to the tank has a hole in it!!! It must have rubbed on something and this prevents pressurization on the tank. The second issue I found is that the clunk line was developing a "bubble" at the point it connects to the clunk.

I threw both lines away and replaced the stock clunk line with Hayes black clunk line and put a new Dubro line from the muffler to the tank. Hopefully this solves my power problems!
Excellent find, interested to hear the results.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Excellent find, interested to hear the results.
Yeah, I looked at that line a little more closely this morning. It looks like it rubbed on the bottom of the main shaft. I had left a little slack above the tank so that the line wouldn't be kinked, but this came back to bite me as the bottom of the main shaft/AR collar must have rubbed on it and opened it up.

This time around I left no slack and hope the Dubro line doesn't get kinked. I also noticed a small puddle of nitro directly under the tank. I can only assume that came from this hole. I also replaced the plastic nipple with a metal one. I really don't want to work on this tank anymore, what a PITA!
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:26 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Nasca View Post
One locknut and bolt secures the tail assembly to the boom. Another secures the tail pitch arm to the to the tail assembly.

Thanks, Just making sure since the manual does not show the locknut!
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Good catch!!!

Here no

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Here yes

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Old 12-08-2012, 11:13 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Had another 5 flight today and really enjoying it. Getting the motor leaned out a bit and it's just come alive. Great little model
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:24 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I have 3 flights today still breaking in the engine. It has lots of power even though the needle is on the very rich side. I really like this little boy.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:06 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Almost through my first gallon and I am loving this heli. It feels so stable and responsive like flying a small version of my 600. For some reason it just feels so much more comfortable than my 550 or 600 - maybe the size?

I like the fact that I can fly it at a local baseball field (made up of 3-4 fields) at lunch time at work. I have very little time to make it to an official field.
I am impressed with the quality of the GAUI kit and the simplicity of how it all fits together.
I am going to be starting the build of my second one

-GN
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:47 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Has anyone else experienced any issues getting the bolts out to replace the head dampers. I can't seem to get them to break lose at all. Could use a drill but I don't wanna break anything.
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