Naza H Build Thread - Set up explained

[Tahoe Ed]

I wasn't going to do this but I see a need that is not being met with the current Naza H threads here and other forums. I will start out saying that I am an amateur heli pilot. I did not start out in my teens, rather in my 50's. I currently own a 550 and a 500. I sold my 700. It cost way too much to fix even with the slightest tail touch. It is now an A/P 800 for a friend of mine. I cruise and don't do 3D. I will leave the comments and set up for 3D to others. That is why I have a WKH, it fits my flying style. However, the Naza H can fit the requirements of both. I took a never ever flier and set him up with a Naza M with GPS. He flew fine and will eventually move beyond GPS and ATTI. I think the Naza H will do that for novice heli pilots. The hurdle will be the build. If you have a RTF heli, 450 and above and are just changing out the FC then you should be fine. If you are a first time builder and flier, find an experienced mentor for the basics. Most will not have a clue about the Naza H. Don't be deterred. When I started out in RC Planes, I had an old timer totally mess up my pretuned from the factory engine. It never worked the same since. Times change and so does technology.

I got my Naza H about a week ago and the weather has been crappy. I decided to start the build even if I could not fly at the moment. The platform is my Trex 550E FBL. I had my WKH mounted on this heli and it flew well. I was going to put it on a Trex 500E FBL but right now it is 400 miles from me so the 550 is it.

First impressions of the Naza H components. The case is the same size as the Naza M but in a smoke plastic. This may be a result of barometers sensitivity to light that has been reported in the Naza M and caused some issues with altitude hold. The GPS unit is smaller than the WKH as is the Naza M is smaller than the WKM. The LED/USB connector is very similar to Naza M. I found the connection between the unit and the USB cable to be very tight on my unit. It may loosen with use. I really like the BEC. Solid machined case with switchable output from 5V to 7.4V 15A peak output. I will be putting this on when I switch out the Align esc for the Jive 80+ LV that I have for this heli. Right now I am using a CC BEC set at 6V with 20A peak which I was using with the WKH.

Since the Naza H does not have the IMU sensor block of the WKH the mounting on the 550 will be a piece of cake. I will put it in the same spot that the WKH MC occupied. For my receiver I am using a JR R921 with satellite and my Tx is a JR9503.

I have been critical of DJI for not having a proper manual for the Naza H. After setting one up on the Assistant, I will soften my opinion somewhat. The set up is very step by step and includes some good explanations as to what you are doing and why. As with any heli set up you have to have your mechanical set up correctly. I learned from Finless Bob, maybe you have heard of him and his videos. If not check the stickies. He has some great videos that I still reference. If the mechanics are bad, the electronics no matter how good they are cannot guarantee a great out come.

What will you need to set this up. A swash plate leveling tool, a pitch gage, some zip ties, a PC with the drivers and Assistant installed. I am not going to go through the installation of the drivers and Assistant. I will note that some people have had issues with Windows 8 and the driver. Do a search here to find the posts. I will eventually add to this page with links to quick fixes to issues. DJI has already posted some of the best videos that I have seen from them in support of this product. Mine will be better. Not, but I am a user and I have had the same issues that most others will have.

Here is the installation video that DJI did for the components:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9AjbnyBCVA&feature=player_embedded[/ame]

DJI mounts the MC on the bottom plate. I am not a big fan of that on the Trex 550. I have done that with an SK720 on my Trex 500 but there are too many other options on the 550 for that. I prefer the plate above the tail boom mount that contains the gears to the shaft drive. The 500, I do agree with their choice. I have seen the GPS mounted on the horizontal stabilizer. I am not doing that. One it can induce vibrations and two it is very close to the tail rotor another source of vibration. I have mine mounted on the supplied tail boom mount. I put some 3M outdoor double stick tape on the underside of the curved portion of the mount then wrench it down with zip ties. Use two small ties rather that one longer tie. They lie flatter on the top of the mount. Remember you are sticking the GPS/Compass on top of it. The flatter the better. Even with that, I had to us the taller 3M double stick rather than the supplied DJI thin double stick. I could not get good adhesion with the supplied tape. The black tape lines that you see on a sheet are to help you set up the alignment of the GPS. The front is where the can bus lead comes out. You will see an arrow and a notch on the front and back that show the center line of the GPS. Put one of the stickers on the GPS and align it with the center of the tail boom. That is all you need to do with the GPS. Make sure it is 20cm from any motor or servo. You don't want any interference.

I did use the supplied double stick tape for the IMU. DJI FC's like to be hard mounted. Forget what you learned about vibration isolation. The IMU has it built in. If you mount it on a gel pad or velcro you will confuse the IMU. Hard is the best. Note that the Naza H is not for Nitro or Turbo Helis. The internal dampening is good but not that good right now. Remember times change.

The video shows the LED mounted on the side of the heli. I have mine mounted on the small lip that is present between the rear LG and the bottom plate. There is enough material that some of the 3M tape can grip the LED and the frame. Have you noticed that I really like the 3M tape. You are right. I don't think that I have a copter without it.

Now that the components are set, I would take some measurements. On a single rotor heli the Main Shaft is the center of the X and Y axis. You need to measure the distance from the Main Shaft to the center of the IMU and the GPS. The next measurement you need to make is to determine the COG. Which means the Z axis in relationship to the X and Y axis. What I do is to hang the copter with lipo, blades extended front to back, from the tail shaft in a door frame. I use a metal hanger to do this. With the heli hanging down, draw a line from the tail shaft straight down. Where it intersects the Main Shaft is the COG. Picture attached below. Note that and take the measurements from the COG to the middle of the MC and the GPS. In DJI logic above the COG is green and negative, below the COG is red and positive. Don't ask me to explain the standard, it is what it is. Learn to live with it.

You will need to set up a new model in your Tx on Heli, 1 servo normal and bind to the Rx. My Tx is a JR 9503. Any quality 7 channel radio will work with the Naza. I helps to have the ability to save failsafe in the Rx. AR7010 and above with satellite receivers are capable of preset failsafe as are others. I use them on my smaller quads. On the lager MR's I use AR8000 and A921. Here I am using a A921. I don't fly 3D so I am setting this up the way I would recommend a beginner to set it up. N, ST1 and ST2 are all set the same to avoid confusion and an accidental switch move. For my Throttle Curve I am at 0-Inh-80-80-80-80-80. Stabilizing flight controllers need some headroom to control altitude and attitude. The pitch curve is -4. +5.5, +8. This is per DJI recommendations. I normally set sum expo in the Aileron and Elevator channels. I am not going to do this, at least until I do the Auto Trim Test flight. Then I might add about 20-30%.

Now to set up the Naza H in the Assistant. Here is DJI's video again.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N9KJEtcNMI&feature=player_embedded[/ame]

Here are the areas that I had to stop my video and figure what they were asking me to do. One, if you are used to the M series of the DJI controllers you are used to clicking on "write" before you move to the next tab. The Naza H Assistant does that for you. There are a few times that you are required to press "enter" to write a value but they are few and far between and a prompt appears in the lower right hand corner to remind you. Contorl Mode Setting. I think that they meant Control Mode Setting. I use Aux 2 in my Tx. What you want to do first is to place the switch in the center position. Check the U slider. The "A" should be highlighted in Blue. If not move the sub trim for the Aux 2 channel to where it does.. Then flip the switch to the end positions, Manual and GPS. Adjust the end points in your Tx so that the slider is highlighted Blue.

Next do the Tx calibration. Press start and move the sticks to the end of their travel. Note that when you move the Th up the slider moves right. When you move the Elevator up the slider moves right, down moves the slider left. The Rudder and the Aileron stick movements should mirror the slider movements, right is right, left is left. If you do not see these movements reverse the channels in your Tx. Once done press finish.

Next is the IMU mounting. Remember the measurements that I had you make this is where you enter the measurement in CM from the main shaft to the center of the IMU. Remember Green is Negative, Red is Positive. If you click on advanced you can enter your Y and Z settings from GOG. For most heli installations the Y will be "0"

Next is the Rotor direction and Rotor type, FB or FBL. If you are having problems with this put your heli up for sale.

Next is Swash Plate Type. Choose your swash type. My Trex 550E is HR3. In the advanced tab you can adjust the rotation. Refer to your heli's build guide for instructions on adjusting the degrees of swash rotation. I have never seen more that a few degrees. I did not do this step in my set up, nor did I do it with my WKH set up. It flew well. If you are more anal than I am, go for it. You will also set the type of servos for digital or analog. How many of your are still using Analog? My guess is not many.

Next is to set the individual servo direction. You will be moving the Pitch/Throttle stick up and down. Check that the head is moving accordingly. If not reverse the Pitch in Assistant. Check the Aileron and Elevator sticks as well if they are not correct, reverse the direction.

The next section you will need your swash leveling tool and the pitch gage. Take the head off and put the leveling tool on the main shaft. Move the sliders until you have the swash level with all arms touching the tool. Then set the blades to "0" degrees pitch.

If you have a Fly Bar skip this section.

Here is where you will also need a pitch gage. I wish I had the fancy digital gage that DJI has. I don't I have a gage similar to the one shown in the graphic. Now adjust your pitch between 6-8 degrees depending on the size of your heli. The first step is to have "0" pitch when you have the Th at 50% when centered over the tail boom and the Normal indicator is showing "Normal". if not I adjust the linkages on the swash. DJI says you can use the trim as well. Remember what I said about having the mechanical as close as possible. Here is a case to adjust the mechanical first and then the trims. When you the blades at "0" then press measure and adjust the pitch to the desired degree using the slider.

The next thing is to find out what frequency your tail servo operates at. Check your specs online. Mine is digital, 1520us(333Hz), an Align DS650. Next use the sliders to set the limits. Move the slider until you meet resistance then set the other side. This is a case where you can enter a digital value then press enter to fine tune. That is what I did because it is difficult to make fine adjustments with the slider.

The next section is the Feedback settings. I was lost with the pictures, but now I have it. In picture 1, pitch of your blades should go positive, negtive,center.
P2,Swashplate should tilt forward, backward, center
P3,Swashplate roll to left, right, center,
P4, Heading should pan to left, right, center by judging tail blades movement.

If all that is correct press "Finish". You will get a pop up to advise you to check the gain settings in the Common Parameters, mine is set a default now. Set your gyro gain, mine is set to default now. Calibrate your Compass and use Auto Trim for the Autopilot system to fine tune the mechanical. Remember what I said about a solid mechanical set up. Make it right mechanically and don't overwork the electronics.

Press OK.

On the Common Tab, I am using default for all the settings right now. I am not using the battery monitor. I will probably set it up later and adjust this post to reflect that. I like the timer in my Tx for the most part. I also have a lipo alarm that I plug into the balance plug.

How to and when to calibrate the compass and what is magnetic declination?

How to enter calibration mode. I switch the mode switch 10 times then wait for the led to change. When I say 10 times I mean Manual to ATTI to GPS and back to Manual is one time. Do this 10 times then wait. The LED should turn yellow. Then rotate the copter horizontally around the main shaft. When the horizontal calibration is complete the LED will turn Green. Flip the copter with the nose pointed down and rotate around the tail boom until the LED flashes to signal the calibration is done. When do I do this? I would do it outdoors away from any magnetic or electronic interference. Take the cell phone out of your pocket when you do this and be away from electric transmission towers. Do it before you fly for the first time. Do it when you change locations. Do it when you change components on your copter. What is magnetic declination? The degrees of magnetic declination varies depending on where you are located on the globe called Earth. You can check yours by googling the term. If your copter has TBE, toilet bowl effect, the copter moves in circles while in GPS hold try rotating your GPS to match your declination. I am in Las Vegas and my declination is 11 degrees rotated to the right. Some of my multis are more susceptible to TBE than others. I have 2 of the 5 that I have made adjustments to. The other 3 are pointing straight forward. Fly and then decide for yourself.

"My Video Goes Here"

I hope this helps those that are thinking about owning a Naza H and those that are having issues in setting theirs up. This is a place that I envision everyone can get the answers they need. This is an awesome community that helps its own.

[alchemy66]

Great post - I have a NAZA H but I'm just starting the build of the 500 that it's destined for. Your info will be a great help!! Looking forward to your video's

Nice One!

Jim

[Tahoe Ed]

Thanks Jim!

I am editing the video now. I am almost as anal with my video as I am with my setups. I hate crashing and I don't want to lead folks in the wrong direction. I will eventually move the Naza H to my 500. But right now the 550 is all I have to put it on. Let me know how your build goes.

[StraightUp]

Thanks for the info , nicely written, looking forward to setting up mine when it comes in the mail. Just ordered a Naza H and can't wait to try it.

I have only flown flybar (with the exception of an mcpx) but I bought a FBL 550 that is set up just waiting for a FC. But I think I will put it on a smaller bird first ,maybe a 450 or 500 just to test it, then onto my 550. Any recommendation here? I just got fbl 500 and 450 heads that I haven't set up yet.

Question when you determine the Z axis COG do you think you will need to change it every time you install a different size/weight battery pack and the COG changes, or is this just for the first time and any changes small enough that the FC can compensate I have different capacity packs, canopies and gear which i place on the heli from time to time.

Cheers,

[Tahoe Ed]

I would check the COG with each lipo and then try an average is the range is not that great, 1-2 CM. The real test is in the flying. The Naza is a powerful controller and it can compensate for some variations. If you were switching between a 2200 and 5500 lipo that is a big difference that will effect your flight characteristics regardless of controller. In general, if you change equipment, DJI recommends that you run through the set up again, including Compass calibration.

[Thunder Fighter]

Nice writeup. I am doing a test and writeup on my local forum in Australia for one of the distributors out here and will be doing some 3d setup and testing as well as setting up the GPS. I have copied the info onto Helifreak as well in the Flybarless forum for reference.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=479138

//Dennis.

[Tahoe Ed]

Dennis,

I have been watching your thread as well. I am not a 3D guy and your input on your impressions of the Naza H 3D set up would be invaluable.

Ed

[Tahoe Ed]

Added Throttle Curve, Pitch Curve and Z Axis Calibration.

[DJI Innovations]

DJI Naza-H 3D Flight in 3DX China 2012
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WISt-wXUG7k[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-361nfshEyc[/ame]

[Thunder Fighter]

Just finishing off my setup and couldnt find a setting for tail rotation rate/speed like there is for cyclic. I guess it is like the older tail gyros and atv travel on tail = rotation speed in normal mode.

//Dennis.

[Thunder Fighter]

Did my first flights with the unit today, report in post #3 here.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=479138

//Dennis.

[Tahoe Ed]

Dennis, nice! Thanks for posting the link here.

[Thunder Fighter]

Originally Posted by Tahoe Ed

Dennis, nice! Thanks for posting the link here.

And thanks for your write up, as it was my first DJI unit the info in your post helped me through a couple of steps understanding their conventions. How is the Video editing going?

//Dennis.

[Tahoe Ed]

It is going ok. I will finish up before the weekend. I hope this weather gets better. If it hasn't been windy, it has been raining or both. I may have to take some time off from work just to do some flying during the week when the weather has been better than the weekends.

[Tahoe Ed]

This a quick video that I did testing the servos in manual mode.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaWc-TkEOJU[/ame]

[Tahoe Ed]

I went out and did the first test flight to day. Set the gains for HH at 40 and Rate at 58. It am getting a tail kick of about 6" oscillating from side to side. I am not sure how to tune this one out? Any suggestions to the pro Heli guys out there?

Other than that it flew well. I am getting some vibration at startup that is more than I like. I may need to balance these blades again. It was a little twitchy in Manual and I added 30% expo in Aileron, Elevator and Rudder. Somehow I got the throttle reversed. It showed correctly in Assistant but when I could not get the esc to arm, reversing the Th channel fixed it. In ATTI it smoothed out considerably. With both ATTI and GPS the reaction to Pitch was considerable slower. Considering that Assistant recommends 6-8 degrees of pitch, that is understandable. I changed my internet server so I should be able to get some video uploaded soon.

I want to thank Alan Szabo Sr and Jr with their help getting this in the air. I am still what I would consider a hobby heli guy and their knowledge helps me out a lot. Maybe someday I can return the favor in the Multi Rotor arena.

[nightflyr]

Concerning your tail wag...
First try to isolate and eliminate your vibration, this may well be the cause.
Might also consider trying different mounting tape if you used the stock tape.
Also check that the tail mechanics are in proper working order, no binding, all bearings are working correctly.

[Thunder Fighter]

I'm running down at about 26% in HH mode with the NAZA so possibly your gain is just too high on the tail. Is it a wag you are describing or a kick when you pitch pump?

If you have reversed your throttle channel make sure you reset your failsafe, both in GPS mode but also in Manual mode, otherwise you could get a surprise if you switch your Tx off first by mistake.

//Dennis.

[Tahoe Ed]

Thank you I am going to go through it today. When I get the kick it is in a hover and the gains were originally set at 16. I increased them. I am going to balance the blades, check for mechanical issues. I just recently relocated my tail servo and added a CF servo rod. I don't think I am getting any flex but that could be an issue as well. Servo moves, rod flexes, the releases and tail kicks.

[nightflyr]

Looking at the DJI software...
Not a whole lot you can adjust there, If the tail assembly shows no signs of binding and all the mechanics are in proper working order.
The problem may lie in the tail servo.
You might also double check the tail servo settings in the software.