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Old 09-04-2014, 03:51 PM   #41 (permalink)
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For the gyro not the motor! LOL
The Cyborg...
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Old 09-04-2014, 04:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Lol I had to quote the movie "Armageddon". When that guy says they're off the grid and the other guy says"what are u a freakin cyborg?". I'm a movie quoter. And I would probably need a little elf on my heli holdong my gyro steady. Lol . Also I was thinking about the auto bailout. I finally got the concept however you lose the ability to arm the heli in throttle hold due to no 0 throttle. And I was thinking u could use the trainer button as a throttle cut. Just take the button out and solder in a switch instead. Could even use it for other features as well. Easy solution. That way u have a designated throttle hold for auto bailout and a throttle cut for safety.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:03 AM   #43 (permalink)
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What i do is arm the heli with TH on - the ESC doesn't arm now and that is a good precaution for me.
Only before takeoff i disengage TH, wait for it to arm at normal/0% and then open throttle...
Another thing you could do is assign the throttle cut to 0% and use it to arm. that way you have TH for the bailout and throttle cut for arming.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:33 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Auto bail out works good Omer!
As a side benefit all my normal transitions in RPM have become very smooth.
I have a real smooth initial spool up to normal throttle PPM (40) with very little overshoot. On throwing the switch to idle up I get an immediate smooth spool up to idel1 (60) RPM. Before I had a small lag between throwing the switch and getting a response in RPM, but no more.
It was worth the effort, thanks for blazing the trail Omer!
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:55 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Great to hear! couldn't be better
I also did some test flying today - i think the response for bailout was a little slow but i guess that's just tuning.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:35 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Omerco, sorry I haven't gotten back to this until tonight. As on the other thread I had to finally sort out some initial gov issues with my two running helis. After resetting the gyros from scratch and again setting my throttle rates in my Yep/Yge esc's I finally have decent SS spools with my gov hitting.

Question? Since I have a Jeti Tx it has an auto bailout switch that is programmable, as well as my TH switch. What exact low throttle point do you want me to test with the Auto switch value to test with? Yge Yep do not have auto bailout settings, so I am just curious if I will see full SS spools regardless? Thanks bro!
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:01 AM   #47 (permalink)
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I think YGE/YEP do have bailout? Last time i read the manuel was a while back but i think it is set exactly as castle:
Apply TH with low value. Start increasing that until motor starts spinning and then back it down just until it stops.
This should be your bailout point, i think?
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:19 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omerco View Post
I think YGE/YEP do have bailout? Last time i read the manuel was a while back but i think it is set exactly as castle:
Apply TH with low value. Start increasing that until motor starts spinning and then back it down just until it stops.
This should be your bailout point, i think?
Lol, pouring through that manual tonight as we speak. My pdf file doesn't show anything about AR.

Can do! My current TH is set at -12, but I will play with the auto low value and see what happens.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:13 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Could be i read it on the forum?
I have one i can bench test i will do
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:13 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Found something. not exactly what i thought....
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=533122

Although i don't know which Firmware REV it is. ?
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:36 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omerco View Post
Found something. not exactly what i thought....
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=533122

Although i don't know which Firmware REV it is. ?
Ahh, nice find. I do believe both my Yge's are the latest firmware. My guess is I may not be able to go lower than half? But that still gives me a decent drop in HS to auto with. Kinda like my low battery cutoff spool I hit a dozen times this year as my skills began outpacing my old flight time settings. I also went back to an old Dx7 I couldn't hear the timer warning with. That plus a few packs I destroyed doing speed runs, I barely got my heli back (almost to the landing pads most times) as they literally ran out and dropped.

We wont mention the forced autos this year I have had. One with my Tri on fire as the esc had a melt down. It actually melted the tabs out of my main packs. So if I hadn't had a separate rx pack. Things would have been far worse coming out of an invert 20ft up as the esc popped. Then I lost a resistor in one of my Yge's in my Gob 800, basically doing the same thing as I popped a hard invert ail roll. A batt connector popped again on my 800 due to some bad solder, basically melted in half while doing some hard 3d. And another three forced auto's for other reasons. Been a fun summer!
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:38 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Well - i think it should still run with what i wrote.
I will bench test when having time
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:52 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Tell ya what, I do love a good safe soft start. But I wonder when just practicing autos if the figures should be ramped up for a quicker spool?
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Old 09-07-2014, 01:42 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Could be? it might effect your SS overshooting but just try.
Note that if you are using ESC's SS its going to limit your bailout...

Edited the procedure - some corrections (like the correct castle throttle cal. video...ooooppppsss).
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Old 09-20-2014, 01:47 PM   #55 (permalink)
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UPDATE-
Did some flying today and some autos and bailouts. i changed few things since last time i tested, as my bailout was a bit on the slow side for my taste:

1. increased castle headspeed change to 20 (maximum) so ESC will not limit.
2. changed low ramp to 100, high ramp to 120 - this gave me a better bailout response.
3. lowered mt TH setting to 8 (in the Tx) because my motor kept spooling slowly.

I would say its working great now

EDIT - updated first post with new data.

Attached is a screen shot of my flight.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:52 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Default Thanx

Omerco
Great work.
I appreciate, the professional attitude and time taken to explain the process to all.
Its wonderful to see such expertise not just in your flying skills but also in your technical knowledge.
Thanks!!
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Old 09-21-2014, 03:43 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Thank you!
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:33 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Default An observation on spool up and throttle up.

Up until today after going through all the changes for bail out which was successful on my ship I noticed something that maybe useful to others.

I had a better spool up with a smaller overshoot of the initial target RPM after all the adjustments.
However as flights past I had the same old overshoot that occurred before the bail out adjustments were made.
Today I figured out it was a function of how fast I moved the throttle up to neutral or 50% throttle on the initial spool up.
If I moved the throttle up rapidly I would get a pretty good kick out of the ESC initially which would cause torque to yaw the ship a little, not much but enough to make me want to slow down the initial throttle movement.
In doing so I saw that the ESC kick and yaw go away but also the overshoot to the initial RPM was gone and the SK acquired the initial RPM dead on with absolutely no overshoot.
And throttle up to idle 1 was done crisply with no overshoot.
This was verified on subsequent starts...two quick to 50% throttle I would get the overshoot.
Slow down the advancement of the throttle just a little and the target RPM was captured dead on with no overshoot.
It looks super cool on the logs, it looks like I drew the lines in with a ruler...its awesome.

So if you still observe the overshoot, you just may need to slow the advancement of the throttle down slightly on spool up and the overshoot may just disappear.


The screen shot is shows the smooth transition during spool up with just a short excursion into Idle 1. No Overshoot!
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Last edited by A VIKING; 09-22-2014 at 05:58 AM..
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Old 10-02-2014, 10:08 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Omerco - just found this thread (thanks Xrayted). Great work, thank you very much. I've been wanting autorotation bailout with SK Gov and Castle ESC for a long time. I set it up with sucessful bench test this evening - will try to get flight test tomorrow. Now I have to man up and try inverted autorotations - excuses gone.

Here is a tip that I put in place with my Futaba 14SG (will also work on 8FG and possibly other brands). In the condition menu I activated IDLE3, I made IDLE 3 a higher priority than HOLD. IDLE3 has a 0-0-0-0-0 throttle curve and 0-25-50-75-100 pitch curve. On a three position switch on top right (SG) fully forward is nothing (goes to flight mode condition priority N,1,2), middle position activates hold (which allows for autorotation bailout) and closest switch position gives IDLE3 (all 0 throttle curve). The advantage here is that I can arm the ESC with a switch as well as deactivate bailout after a landing; instead of having to go to Normal and go all the way down on the stick. This also allows me to plug in my preferred way, in IDLE1. The ESC will not arm until I either hit the switch for IDLE3 (again 0s) or go to N and down; and won't spool until taking a second action.
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:04 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I have that as well (Throttle Cut) - my only fear is mixing between it and HOLD by mistake
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