300X-to-CFX Conversion

[ShamusOtooley]

Has anyone done it? I put my 300X into the ground yesterday and broke the frame. I suppose I'll call it an "upgrade opportunity" rather than a crash. Looking for some advice on where to go from here.
The 300CFX frame parts are available, but looks like it will have to be pieced together (frame set, bearing blocks, gyro plate, battery plate, etc...) which would add up the $$ quick. Not sure why Horizon wouldn't sell a complete frame kit?? I do not fly smack 3D but like to go inverted on occasion. Looking for the best bang for the buck here. I know the frame conversation has been beat to death, but with the new CFX parts in the mix, I thought it was worth putting out there.

300X Frame prices:
Lynx $85
Microheli $68.99
Stock replacement - $12.75

300CFX Stock Parts:
Main Frame $26.99
Bearing blocks $22.49
Bottom Plate $14.24
Gyro Mount $4.99
Battery Mount $9.99
Tail Boom Mount $14.24

[Uriah]

I think Horizon Hobby is having an issue with the 300 CFX motor mount not being correct. It's apparently being sold as the same part number and motor mount as the 300X, but it's not the same part. So apparently you can't actually build a CFX frame from scratch yet until Horizon Hobby gets the correct motor mount in stock.

Once Horizon Hobby starts selling the correct motor mount, your motor options on the CFX frame will be extremely limited, due to the actual design of the frame. Lynx is apparently working on a motor mount/plate upgrade for the CFX, but until then most motors simply will NOT fit in the CFX frame without heavy modding. In my opinion, if you really want a carbon fiber frame, you would be much, much better off with the Lynx frame. You can fit any motor you want in the Lynx frame (within reason, of course) and it has a lot more room for wiring and such.

Since you're not flying 3D and are only occasionally going inverted, I would personally recommend you stick with the stock plastic frame with the Lynx frame brace. This is just my personal opinion, but I don't see a reason to add the weight of a carbon fiber frame when your flying style is not going to need a more powerful drive train. Now if you simply want the bling factor then that's totally fine and I say go for it. I much prefer to see pilots admit they like bling then pretend the bling helps the bird fly better.

[terryv83]

Plus 1 to all above, also another thing to consider, if you are running the stock motor and esc any CF frame is too heavy and performance will suffer.

[jypt01]

I am in the same boat you are, I cracked my plastic frame also.
My birds got all upgraded electronics, trex tail, dons wicked motor, lynx slant gear and OWB, lynx stiffner and a few other upgrades. Flys great and I love it, I am mostly a sports flyer venturing into mild 3D.
End of the day I decided to fix bird with stock frame. New frame is on the bench and I will start on it after I complete my 500 3D updgrades.
I put some of the $ I saved delaying the carbon frame upgrade toward the UMX Pitts - let me tell you that things is blast to fly and has great flight behaviour and awesome looks.
Let's us know which route you take and your results and thoughts.
Good Luck!

[Metroart]

If you really want to upgrade to carbon fiber I'd recommend the Lynx 300x frame - very nice construction and easy to get parts for.

[ShamusOtooley]

At this point I am leaning toward replacing with the stock frame. Ideally I would like to get a donor airframe and transfer my electronics over. I whacked the old one pretty good. Broke the swash, main shaft, frame, bent tail tube, feathering shaft will most likely be bent (haven't disassembled yet), canopy is pretty beat up. Im sure there will be more odds and ends when I start to tear it down.

[terryv83]

Wow look at the carnage, chances are the servos are toast as well, fingers crossed for you that they're not though. Pictures don't really convey the whole story but when mine was trashed like that I went all out with a rekit using Lynx, Hitec and castle she's super smooth now. If you can find a complete airframe get that like you mentioned, or pull the BeastX and either sell it and get a new 300X or keep it and put money into a different kit. That Is of course if it's as bad as it looks. You may need to do some sums first because what I built wasn't cheap, but as it was the first heli my wife bought for me, it's got quite a personal hold on me.

[Uriah]

Just be thankful you didn't hit a power line. This is what real carnage is. A Goblin 700 and power lines don't mix. I recall the guy who built it was running some crazy high headspeed of 2800RPM (insane for a 700) and he only had one satellite receiver in it (insane for a 700). The pilot didn't build it and was doing a test flight for the owner. It apparently lost signal due to the single sat and he had no control over it when it crashed. But now you don't have to feel bad about your crash.

Goblin 700 vs POWER LINES Crash and burn (1 min 44 sec)

[terryv83]

Never mind got beaten to it

[Uriah]

I edited the post and added the video. =)

[James Recard]

Very unlucky to crash (lose control) and touch two blades on two wires, and then for CF to be that conductive... WOW

[terryv83]

With blades that size I wonder if static charge comes into play, I was watching a doco not that long ago about the wire walkers that clean the powerlines and the have to release all the static before they can step out of the heli or they will get fried. Talk about a scary job.

[DoubleCH]

Off-topic... I don't think it's about grouding the statics but to bring the body/suit to the same voltage of the power line. The whole body will be at 30kV+ but with reference to the line you'll be like 0V.

Regarding the Goblin, either that pilot tried to bring it back but mixed up orientation or someone didn't set up failsafe properly. No one sets failsafe throttle to 100%.