Capacitor thingy broke off of ESC..motor stiff.

[mixfisto]

Hey guys, I was just flying and had a really minor crash (only popped out a main grip link ball, still landed on the skids). Before the crash, everything was running very smoothly. I flew a couple more packs and things seemed fine, but when I was done and about to go home, I noticed that the black round capacitor thing sticking out out the ESC was really loose. I wiggled it a tiny bit and it came off. Now obviously I have to fix that (or get a governed ESC!!).

But the main reason I'm here asking for help is that when I turn the main rotors by hand, it feels very sluggish (was very smooth at start of the day). Tail assembly is fine, belt tension is fine and main gear to pinion gap is fine.

I don't have time now to take out the main gear and motor to inspect further... But do any of you know what might be the cause?

Did the ESC short out or something, therefor damaging the motor (btw, it doesn't smell burnt)??

[ahahn]

Try this.

Unhook the three motor plugs from the ESC and see if the mains turn easier now.

If the ESC is somehow shorted out to the motor windings, the motor will get very hard to turn since it is producing current (like a generator), which if the ESC is acting like a short, will make it feel like molasses.

If it still spins with difficulty, then I'd loosen the motor mount and move the pinion off the main gear, and try again. Next would be to get the tail belt off the pulley. You are looking to see what is left to cause the stiffness.

[mixfisto]

How strange...just went to have a quick look and the rotors move freely now. However the ESC would still need to be fixed or replaced.

I've been thinking of buying that YEP ESC for governor mode...who here has tried one and would you recommend it (or maybe some other governable esc)?

[ahahn]

Originally Posted by mixfisto

How strange...just went to have a quick look and the rotors move freely now. However the ESC would still need to be fixed or replaced.

I've been thinking of buying that YEP ESC for governor mode...who here has tried one and would you recommend it (or maybe some other governable esc)?

Maybe possible that whatever was shorting out the motor windings (in the ESC like a small piece of wire or solder flashing) fell out. If you want to test out what I was sayin, remove the three motor connections and short two together. Now try to move the main blades. See if that feels similar to what you were feeling before.

I agree that you need a new ESC.

[Electric-Hertz]

Thanks for the info on this threat guys. I would have never fixed it with out it. I also just ran into this issue where the blades are stiff to turn after the battery is unplugged. I followed your advise with the motor wires and to my surprise as soon as I unhooked them the Blades started to turn fine again. Hooked the wires back up and back to the stiff turning. I pulled the ESC out and cut back just a portion of the rubber shield around the Capacitor and found that My capacitor had indeed come off the board. Soldered the capacitor back in place and it runs great again. THANKS. My Wife appreciates the fact that you saved me from Purchasing more Heli parts!

[helidude71]

Originally Posted by mixfisto

How strange...just went to have a quick look and the rotors move freely now. However the ESC would still need to be fixed or replaced.

I've been thinking of buying that YEP ESC for governor mode...who here has tried one and would you recommend it (or maybe some other governable esc)?

Solder it back on and watch polarity.

Or grab the YEP30A with progcard.
Governor works perfect!
I'm using the internal BEC as well without problems. (Fixed 5.5V with the YEP.)

[Scream]

I'm not aware of the scientific terms, but going off the title of the thread ...

I do know that when the thingy breaks off, the doodad usually goes kaputs or kerspaltz right into the thingamajiger. For shizzles.

The YEP idea is solid, but also consider the AE45A as apparently the yep 30 has a funny bec and for 5$ more you'll have a 5amp Bec & headroom for when she gets fat and you flip to a new motor!

Cheers!
-=S=-

[DoubleCH]

Originally Posted by Scream

The YEP idea is solid, but also consider the AE45A as apparently the yep 30 has a funny bec and for 5$ more you'll have a 5amp Bec & headroom for when she gets fat and you flip to a new motor!

Cheers!
-=S=-

How funny with the YEP BEC? I don't have BEC problem with the YEP30, but I have problem with YEP30 not running smooth. AE45A ESC SBEC is 4A at 5V or 6V switchable.

[Scream]

DoubleCH

You are correct sir, there are in fact numerous errors in my last post...

I meant to say funny GOV, not BEC... typo-uhoh. I really thought the AE45A had a tougher BEC though.. thanks for pointing that out. Also the ae45 is about 8$ more.

When comparing the 2 ESCs, I'd still suggest the AE45A because BEC can go to 5v to be PNP if you have stock tail and it can be flashed with BLheli for easy gov settings, and the obvious that its higher rated. IF you aren't worried about running gov, then save some weight and $$ and go with the YEP30.

I have a YEP 45 on the way, will be able to do a fair comparison VS. the AE

Of course DCHs vote is worth many more flights than mine, in your most recent post DCH you're running the AE45 aren't you?

I just wanted to clear up the errors from my last post,
Cheers!
-=S=-

[nartac]

YEP 45 is too big to fit into the 300x frame. You would have to tilt it to have it fit inside the frame. YEP 40 fits just fine. Both work great though

[DoubleCH]

For YEP, I think 40 is the best choice for the 300X mostly because it fits better than 45 and I had bad luck with 2 30s. YEP governor is good. My problem with YEP is both my YEP30s didn't run smooth so I had to dumb down governor settings to compromise.

[sdunne]

The cap is just there to smooth the output current. Soldered back in place it will be fine. Sounds like you have it done already and the polarity correct otherwise it would have go pop!
Go fly; no need for new ESC

[D22597]

Originally Posted by mixfisto

I noticed that the black round capacitor thing sticking out out the ESC was really loose. I wiggled it a tiny bit and it came off.

I just noticed mine did the same thing. I have zero crashes and have never touched/moved the ESC or BX. I noticed the capacitor was touching the BX and then discovered it slid forward because it was completely disconnected. Unfortunately I don't think I can solder it back on.

[D22597]

From closer inspection, I'm guessing it shorted. Does anyone know or have a pic of where it should go? Pos is obvious. I assume the neg side goes on the spot just next to the pos batt lead?

[helibus]

Originally Posted by D22597

From closer inspection, I'm guessing it shorted. Does anyone know or have a pic of where it should go? Pos is obvious. I assume the neg side goes on the spot just next to the pos batt lead?

Looks like the pos lead is the one that broke off the cap, since the broken lead seems to be soldered to the pad with the red wire?

The cap goes across the battery inputs and is there to provide some surge capacity local to the ESC. I won't cut mine open to verify, but in your picture it looks like there's a trace that extends from the Black wire solder pad across the front of edge of the board. The neg lead from the cap could be soldered where ever it falls along that trace. The board is likely designed that way to provide some flexibility in lead spacing between different capacitor manufacturers, etc.

What likely happened in your case is that the negative lead came unsoldered for some reason, which put more stress on the positive lead and it broke. And yes, that cap is shot at this point. I wouldn't bother going to a place like Radio Shack for a replacement. Browse through Digikey or Mouser for one with either a high surge current rating or a low ESR value.

[D22597]

Originally Posted by helibus

Looks like the pos lead is the one that broke off the cap, since the broken lead seems to be soldered to the pad with the red wire?

The cap goes across the battery inputs and is there to provide some surge capacity local to the ESC. I won't cut mine open to verify, but in your picture it looks like there's a trace that extends from the Black wire solder pad across the front of edge of the board. The neg lead from the cap could be soldered where ever it falls along that trace. The board is likely designed that way to provide some flexibility in lead spacing between different capacitor manufacturers, etc.

What likely happened in your case is that the negative lead came unsoldered for some reason, which put more stress on the positive lead and it broke. And yes, that cap is shot at this point. I wouldn't bother going to a place like Radio Shack for a replacement. Browse through Digikey or Mouser for one with either a high surge current rating or a low ISR value.

Hmm...I replaced it with one from radio shack already. They didn't have a 330uF that was the same as stock, so I went with a 470uF 35v. I chose this one because I noticed a 60 amp ESC running 2 470s and assumed it was close enough. My other option was a 220 and thought a little bigger wouldn't hurt. I'm upgrading the ESC in a week or so.. Is this safe to run for now?

[helibus]

Originally Posted by D22597

Hmm...I replaced it with one from radio shack already. They didn't have a 330uF that was the same as stock, so I went with a 470uF 35v. I chose this one because I noticed a 60 amp ESC running 2 470s and assumed it was close enough. My other option was a 220 and thought a little bigger wouldn't hurt. I'm upgrading the ESC in a week or so.. Is this safe to run for now?

Yes, it should be safe assuming there's no solder shorts or other problems of course. The value of the capacitor isn't critical - larger is actually better in this case. I downplayed Radio Shack mainly since you don't know much about their parts. If you had all the specs, the RS part likely has a higher ESR which means it just won't be quite as effective as a higher quality, more expensive part. It probably also isn't rated for as much ripple current, which would be more of an issue for a piece of electronics that is powered 24/7 than an ESC that is on for a few minutes at a time.

[helibus]

Back to mixfisto's original problem. A magnet-based motor acts as a generator when you turn it. In motor controls, shorting motor leads together is considered a BRAKE condition, since the motor can't easily generate voltage across the short.

That said, I'm at a loss to understand how the presence of, lack of, or shorts involving the large capacitor across the battery leads would be related to what is felt rotating the blades. Maybe I just don't know enough about the specifics of this ESC design. I just thought I'd at least share the knowledge regarding the brake condition.

[Relisys190]

This happend to me yesterday. With my 450. Caused a brownout of my RX and subsequently a crash.

I didnt find out about a loose capacitor until 5 mins ago finding this thread.

Removed my ESC because i was gonna send it into HH. And the CAP IS LOOSE.


Funny cause my first brownout yesterday i managed to land it, and noticed the blades were really tight to turn backwards.......

Should i solder it back on or have HH do it properly.hurrrmmmmmm

[D22597]

Originally Posted by Relisys190

This happend to me yesterday. With my 450. Caused a brownout of my RX and subsequently a crash.



I didnt find out about a loose capacitor until 5 mins ago finding this thread.



Removed my ESC because i was gonna send it into HH. And the CAP IS LOOSE.





Funny cause my first brownout yesterday i managed to land it, and noticed the blades were really tight to turn backwards.......



Should i solder it back on or have HH do it properly.hurrrmmmmmm

My LHS was able to get me a new ESC from HH under warranty. You might just give them a call and see what they say. I'm guessing they won't repair and will send you a new one.