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Thunder Tiger GT5 FBL System Thunder Tiger GT5 Flybarless Electronics


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Old 02-25-2014, 06:32 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Got my max headspeed at 2900 and I'm flying around quite enjoyably at 2200rpm which on my 450 makes for 10 minute per pack. Motor and batteries stays cool as well. Doubt I'll attempt even mild 3d with this setup... I'm the "hoover" king tho

It feels very dialed already tho I'm sure as my skill progress, I might notice some subtleties tunable by the GT5. Very nice then also learning on the GT5 as its a bit more in depth and interactive than other fbl's with mostly predetermined setups. But not really a set and forget unit... Always something to be tweaked, just part of the fun, at least for me.

Even had some of the more pro guys comment, the 450 flies much bigger for a usually twitchy bird...

One thing I'd love to see in future releases is the ability to save your setup to the gt5... for milder and more aggressive setups. Would enjoy a self level option with bailout and usb / bluetooth connectivity.
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:56 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hey Polartip you can get 2 setups within the flip of the switch by having a 100 overall gyro gain for taking off in flying in idle up 1 and I use a 96 gain for 3550 head speed that is accesed by the flip of my rudder switch or gyro switch on the TX.

The bird reacts so much faster with high headspeeds on the main and tail that the gain doesn't need to be as high.

Its a good idea to jot your settings down if you have it flying like you like just in case you ever have to replace the gyro. It would save a lot of time.

In fact its good to know the default settings which were never included anywhere in the manuals of the various GT-5's. Just in case you found you've mistakenly changed the wrong thing. Every gyro I've ever seen made mention of its default settings.

The 450 does fly amazingly different as a FBL heli, much more perfect. Good servos even make it better.

My first GT-5 I had booted it it up with an RX and a lipo just to scroll through its menus while my FBL head was in the mail and got the x,y,z axis out of calibration just by looking though the menu's. Its in the tools menu. Its a good idea to jot those numbers down for all 3 axis as well. You can recalibrate it yourself if it ever gets messed up but its pretty time consuming to get it back perfect. You have to get the gyro on a strait surface, make sure that you are moving the corresponding axis and check the numbers while in edit mode. What you want to see for each axis is the numbers go from zero to 89 when you rotate the gyro 90 degrees on that axis. If they go higher you have to reduse the setting on the current axis you are working with.

I've found that a 1x2 inch wooden stake with one end in carpet to work well. That way I can pick up the stake until the numbers read zero in the gyro, then quickly rotate the gyro 90 degrees. Then quickly check the moving numbers again. If they show more than 89 degrees of movement you have to lower the setting for that axis and check again. You can also reset that back to zero but it quickly starts counting ahead so you only get a second.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:16 AM   #23 (permalink)
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With the new software and USB cable, you can save and load setups from your pc/laptop/notebook. It also makes initial setup far quicker, I can setup one from scratch in like 5 minutes. Not Bluetooth but still a huge step in the right direction. As soon as it gets above sub zero temps with gale force winds I plan to do a lot more flying with the new firmware. Only got a little in before it got cold, and other family issues got in the way.
It's strange moving up here from florida. I never understood the concept of a "building and indoor flying season"
Unfortunately now I do.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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It sounds like the GT-5.2 will be worth a try. I was about ready to try something else but my 5.1 works so well I'm afraid I'd be disappointed. I love the BeastX on my Trex 550 and wouldn't mind scoping one out on the 450. I feel the GT-5 gyros probably fly about the same though, they just have that cool Hi-Tec looking monitor that no other gyros have. They work even better with good digital servos, the analogs feel just a little bit like a FB 450, not all the way but just a little.

You surely didn't move up where they have 3 feet of snow did you Gary?
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:27 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Gary, how can I mount my gt5.2 sideways like on the new e550 fbl? There are no settings I can see that allow me to do that. I have 5.2 on v1 hardware. Thanks!

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Old 02-27-2014, 04:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hexperience View Post
Gary, how can I mount my gt5.2 sideways like on the new e550 fbl? There are no settings I can see that allow me to do that. I have 5.2 on v1 hardware. Thanks!

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I wanted to mount mine sideways originally and found out later that it can't be mounted sideways. Wires must face forwards or backwards whether the gyro is on the side of the heli or top. The tap pad on the side is one negative for the GT gyros especially if you have to mount in down inside the frame.

If you mount it sideways with the wires off to the left side the rudder works correctly as well as elevator and aileron from the sticks but the gyro does not correct in the right direction. If you nose the heli over by hand the gyro thinks the heli has got blown over on its left side and corrects with right aileron which would yield disaster in flight.
If you roll the heli right by hand the gyro thinks the nose has gone down and pulls back on the elevator. Total disaster again.


They really should have made provisions for remapping those elevator and aileron axis. The rudder axis doesn't care which way the gyro faces but the other two do.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:05 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Exactly. But in every picture the gt5 is sideways on the e550 fbl. I'm tempted to buy one just to see how they mount it

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Old 02-27-2014, 11:46 PM   #28 (permalink)
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My E550 shipped yesterday. So if it comes with the GT5.2 mounted sideways, as it shows in the pic..... then either it works this way....or there's going to be lot's of upset customers when their new ARF crashes on maiden....

https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...7&d=1393361885
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:53 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Well maybe they did make provisions for sideways mounting. With the tap pad thats the sensible thing to do. The GT-5.2 Manual says it has to be mounted wires inline with the boom. They must have squeezed this in at the last minute.
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:04 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, you cannot mount the gyro like in the picture everyone keeps referring to. it has to be with the wires towards the front or the back, not the side. the E550fbl's do not come with the gyro mounted, so the user must mount it. That picture is of a model someone took out of a box specifically for promotional pictures to be shot, and it never crossed their mind that there was a specific way the gyro must be mounted.
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:00 AM   #31 (permalink)
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The other issue is that the manual for the e550 fbl has gt5.1 settings not 5.2. Is there a direct correlation we can use to translate the settings?
OR if Gary can post his settings for the 5.2 on a 550/600 ??

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Old 03-05-2014, 01:03 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I'd be very happy to do that, but I don't have a 550 yet. It's on backorder. Demand was far higher than expected so I didn't get mine yet. With the weather we have currently I probably wouldn't be able to fly it anyway.

I may or may not fly it stock to begin with, but as many know, my setups are a bit off the beaten path (I'm an old fart now <G>) and I like much lower rpms and much longer flight times, so I'll be playing with power systems and such. I'm not sure how much of my "numbers" will even translate for what most people want. I want 10 minutes or more like my 600,700,720,and soon to be 820 (and yes they're all 3D-able, just smooth graceful 3D, not smack style). 99.9% of the population doesn't want that, they want to push it as hard as possibly and deplete the batteries as quickly as possible, so my numbers in the electronics generally don't coincide with what works for others.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Team pilot Adam Landefeld just posted his flight review video. I asked if he would share his GT5.2 settings here on HF for us, so hopefully he will when he gets a chance.
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:32 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Gary, I'm in the .1 and I'm a fan of smooth sport flying... Simone Zuntener is one of my favorite pilots...

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Old 03-05-2014, 03:56 PM   #35 (permalink)
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OK,.. so I guess you're the other one <G> Agree about simone, but a really like Timo Wendtland's style.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:30 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I like some of the places Simone Zunterer flies. This would make a great Phoenix 5 field. Where in z werld is zees place?


I want to fly freakin nutz though like Dunkan Bossian! 3.5 Flight times for me. The BeastX is getting it done too. There are some great interesting moves in this vid, the kind you dont' see every day.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:50 PM   #37 (permalink)
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+1 on low rpm and long flight times... Struggling doing this on my 500 dfc, a head wobble I just can't iron out.

We have sugar cane farms here in Durban - South Africa... Altho this will certainly save a heli in a crash... Imagine finding it after. Would still love to do it tho, lots of hills and wide open valleys.

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Old 03-07-2014, 05:29 AM   #38 (permalink)
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That's awesome Polartip! Love those large fields.

Hey have you tried lowering the swash P and I gain 5 increments at a time, test flying it each time to see if it goes away?
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:39 AM   #39 (permalink)
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You could possibly try some softer blades (more flex) so you could damp with the blades since the head must be stiff. I really don't think you'll ever eliminate the issue with gyro settings, as that's not the problem in the first place.
do you have head without those links,..i.e. a "normal" style head? I wouldn't think you'd want to run the stiff linkage head at low rpm anyway,..the repeated stress on those links when it teeters is just asking for failure. Back many years ago some folks played with stiff heads, literally JB welding the blade axle into the head block and dial indicating it EXACTLY centered. No, I would NEVER suggest doing this. Those heads were plastic (cheap to replace) and we ran far far lower rpms. Still kinda dangerous now that I think about it,..but I digress. The point I wanted to make is they had to experiment with MANY blades to find some more flexible rotorblades that would effectively provide the damping.

On another note, I hope to have a 550fbl in the air soon, and when that happens I'd be happy to share settings that I end up with. With the software and cable I could just post a setup file.I installed a 9 tooth pinion, instead of the stock 11 tooth since I want lower rpms without heating things up, and longer flights. something I always run into with the slower setups is getting the tail to work well. The designers want to make something that appeals to the majority, so they usually work best at the more common high rpm ranges. I found there's an 8 tooth pulley available for the tail of other raptors and it will of course fit in the 550, so I put it in last night. Stock is 9, resulting in 4.55 tail ratio if i counted the teeth correctly on the front pully. the 8 tooth should be 5.1 or thereabouts. If you're gonna spin the head up like most people I wouldn't recommend it, the tail would be really whirring, but at the planned lower rpms it should help a lot. Due to these differences, I'm not sure how useful my GT5.2 settings will be, but I'd be happy to share when done. I'm not sure when we'll have weather to fly and I'll be able to get it in the air though. This weekend would be good but I have family responsibilities.
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:57 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro View Post
That's awesome Polartip! Love those large fields.

Hey have you tried lowering the swash P and I gain 5 increments at a time, test flying it each time to see if it goes away?
Jip, tried all the gain adjustments I could Stomach... Might be to low on the rpm's tho, Trying for 1600 rpm. Not giving up tho. Shes also losing the tail a bit, but I'm sure this will be easier to solve... Probably get some bigger tail rotor blades as I've heard Gary mention in other posts.
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