Hurricane 425 build log

[stark]

PTcaflyer, thanks for the tip. I got it now.

Is the original 550 FRP canopy any good @ 35$?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12464

Is FRP the same as Fiber glass canopies?

[PTcaflyer]

YEP !
FRP = Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic or "GF"
I got mine from Hobbypartz.com and was not half that price...
PT

[stark]

bag with roll/pitch, elevator arms.


Identify what goes where


Assembled link balls.


Assembled roll/pitch bell cranks.


The elevator arm was not moving freely so I had to clean up the excess plastic.
Used a drill bit to clean up the elevator arm.


Sanded the edges of this part where the elevator arm pivots.


Installed the elevator arm.

[Mikej]

Roger,

Just a quick note - but you have your elevator servo arm on back-to-front

Cheers,
Mike

[Mikej]

Roger - just a quick note, you have your elevator lever on back-to-front.

Cheers,
Mike

[stark]

Mike, thanks for pointing out. To clarify what you are saying, you mean I must flip the elevator arm (triangle) by 180 degrees, right?

How do you identify which way it goes? is there some marking?

[Mikej]

Yep 180 degrees. The plastic arms in the kit have an offset built into them (if you look at the elevator lever the pivot point in the middle is offset from the centre-line of the 2 balls), you also need to build this offset into you servo arms (there is a diagram in the manual that shows you how to do this) or alternatively Gaui sell straight CNC arms that don't need the offset.

[stark]

Ah, you are talking about the elevator bell crank and not the elevator arm. The elevator bell crank is free to rotate all the way and was in a random position while taking the picture. But I will keep in mind what you said while assembling the servo arms and links.

edit:

Mike, I was wrong with the above statement. The elevator bell crank does not rotate all the way and I will have to disassemble and fix the orientation.

Here is a picture with the correct elevator bell crank orientation.

[stark]

I did a mock up with my 6S battery pack and canopy and observed that they will fit together if I mount the battery under the front of the frame with the extra 3 piece battery mount. Also, I would have to offset the canopy mount holes a bit from the provided dimple marks, otherwise it doesn't fit.

The 3 piece battery mount.


Used CA glue and screws to fix it to the frame.


The landing skids weren't going all the way through the landing struts so I had to shave off excess plastic using an X-acto knife. The excess plastic was only on one end of the strut.


Fit the landing skids and the skid grips.

[texasclouds]

subscribed!

[sp00fman]

Good stuff, keep the pictures coming

[stark]

bag with head parts


The head. I did open it up and check for correct assembly and thread-lock.


Identifying the mixing levers


on they go


Identifying the seesaw


on it goes


Put the flybar and flybar arms. Set the flybar to equal length on either side.




the washout guide assembly. The screws will be tightened later after I mount it on the spindle.


Washout base and arms.


The assembly wasn't smooth so I had to disassemble the arms and clean up the excess plastic using a drill bit.


Put the swash plate and the washout base + arms onto the frame.


Then goes the head. Tightened the hub screws and the holding nut. Sized the ball links as necessary. Most were tight few were too lose. I discarded the loose ones. I've adjusted the link lengths as mentioned in the manual. I suppose I'll have to get back to adjusting the links when I do the CCPM setup.


Finally the flybar paddles.

[stark]

Bag with tail gear and belt


Identifying the tail gear parts


Bag with rest of the tail parts


Opened up the tail grip assembly to make sure everything is ok as per the correction sheet.


Assembled it back.




Fit the tail grip assembly onto the tail shaft.


I used both washers between the lever and the tail gear box. This ensures that the tail control lever does not rub the tail gear box.


Another shot of the ready tail assembly

[stark]

Tail boom and fin. Had to open up the tail gear box to put the boom as it has to fit in a notch within the gear box.


Put the tail rod supports.


Fit the boom to the frame and fixed the boom supports.




On goes the stabilizer fin.


Identifying the tail blade and bolts.


There was some excess plastic inside the tail grips which I had to sand off.


On go the tail blades.


NOTE: Main blades rotate clockwise when looked at from the top of the heli, the tail blades rotate anticlockwise when looked at as in the above picture.

[texasclouds]

it seems like there are alot of locnuts in the kit. that looks good to me since I'm always worried about how much loctite to use when using screws into metal like my align helis use. also, replacing a stripped nut is cheaper than having to re-buy an aluminum part after you booger the threads.

[sp00fman]

I see the tail rotor hub has changed from when i got my kit a year back. My bearings are retained with a tiny screw that goes in the tail rotor hub, but your is held on by a nyloc nut. Good to see Gaui still fixing issues on older designs.

[stark]

Yes good to see the manufacturer fix issues based on user feedback. I would be surprised if they haven't fixed the One Way Bearing (OWB) yet. I'm going to use the stock OWB 19T gear that came with my kit.

Is there any way to identify the faulty OWB lot?

[stark]

Just received the 22T Pinion. Too bad, the pinion does not fit inside the frame.
In order to fit it I would have to cut the plastic standoffs. I'm not willing to do this as I think it would weaken the frame.

Plan B is to go with a higher RPM motor so I don't have to use larger pinions.
I'm going ahead with the Hyperion HS3026 1210kV motor.

[volens31]

Good choice of motor, I use this with good results. Nice and cool with 7 mins of flighttime..

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[stark]

7 mins is impressive . What battery size and pinion/gears you use?