Flew more aggressively today and....

[ryguy76]

Hey guys,

I had a good day at the field today because I decided that I'd start flying IRL more like I do in the sim. I let loose, relaxed and tried more. All was good and I really worked my Protos, buyt I noticed something that I figured I should ask about.

It's hard to pinpoint what it is or even what I'm doing that causes it, but I could definitely notice a change in headspeed at times today during more aggressive, increased pitch moves. I figure it's the governor at work, but I'm not sure what to do to address is. Hard to say if the recovery is too slow, or if it's fighting to keep the speed constant. Any suggestions on how I can diagnose what it is I'm experiencing so I can correct for it?

I'm running a gov. store on my YGE 60A ESC and am sitting at 75% which equates ti somewhere around 2700-2800rpm with my 15t pinion.

[mkovalcson]

Your batteries may not be supplying the power fast enough. My almost 3 year old batteries have been bogging noticeably recently and just I got newer higher C batteries and the bogging went away.

Also if you are starting to hit it hard, you will probably find that YGE 60 will start to thermal on you. I didn't affect me until I started to develop more skill and started pushing harder.

I'm now running Kontronik Koby 90A and it will keep that motor spinning really well if the battery will supply it the current it needs.

[ryguy76]

Originally Posted by mkovalcson

Your batteries may not be supplying the power fast enough. My almost 3 year old batteries have been bogging noticeably recently and just I got newer higher C batteries and the bogging went away.

Also if you are starting to hit it hard, you will probably find that YGE 60 will start to thermal on you. I didn't affect me until I started to develop more skill and started pushing harder.

I'm now running Kontronik Koby 90A and it will keep that motor spinning really well if the battery will supply it the current it needs.

Well that's no good. I'm using Zippy Fightmax 45C packs that have about 20 flights each on them. I only have 2 packs and was thinking of getting a couple more, so perhaps I'll try something different. What packs do you run on your Protos?

I can't say that I feel a difference, it's more of just an audible thing at the moment.

What do you mean by going "thermal"?

[crickr1]

Originally Posted by ryguy76

Well that's no good. I'm using Zippy Fightmax 45C packs that have about 20 flights each on them. I only have 2 packs and was thinking of getting a couple more, so perhaps I'll try something different. What packs do you run on your Protos?

I can't say that I feel a difference, it's more of just an audible thing at the moment.

What do you mean by going "thermal"?

batts and budgets, Good batts $$ compared to Zippy but you will notice performance difference. Glacier 2700 is a good battery, Pulse and thunder power top of line,
Turnigy blue label 40-50c are a good bang for your buck, I have had good luck with them as long as you treat them right.

[ryguy76]

Originally Posted by crickr1

batts and budgets, Good batts $$ compared to Zippy but you will notice performance difference. Glacier 2700 is a good battery, Pulse and thunder power top of line,

Turnigy blue label 40-50c are a good bang for your buck, I have had good luck with them as long as you treat them right.

I have 3S pulses that I bought for my 450X. I bought a single 3S Turnigy and a Zippy but had sold my 450x at that time so could only compare the 3S packs on planes. I never could tell the difference between all 3 on the two planes I have. They probably don't pull enough current to see the differences. I like the Pulses though, and will likely get a couple 6S packs for the Protos.


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[banditpowdercoat]

I notice a difference between my gens ace and Voltz packs. With the gens ace being a lot better.


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[crickr1]

Rumor has it, Pulse,Gens ace, and Glacier made by same co. Slightly diff specs but most who used them all cannot tell diff. Pulse adds the nice plate to protect the cells in crash.
Since gens ace is usually sold out try the Glacier from BuddyRC.

[banditpowdercoat]

My gens have plates too


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[ryguy76]

At the field right now and the issue I described in the original post is happening in straight forward/reverse flight too. It doesn't sound like normal bogging, it's more of the high pitched whine from the motor that seems like it's stressed and struggling to keep up, but it's happening intermittently in FF, even if nothing changes. Any ideas? It seems like it's going to be hard to diagnose, and it's a bit disconcerting.


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[Aryemis]

Originally Posted by ryguy76

At the field right now and the issue I described in the original post is happening in straight forward/reverse flight too. It doesn't sound like normal bogging, it's more of the high pitched whine from the motor that seems like it's stressed and struggling to keep up, but it's happening intermittently in FF, even if nothing changes. Any ideas? It seems like it's going to be hard to diagnose, and it's a bit disconcerting.


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Sounds like the OWB slipping to me, would be consistent with the whine.
If it's doing it in FF now, then your OWB will probably fail very soon.

[ryguy76]

Originally Posted by Aryemis

Sounds like the OWB slipping to me, would be consistent with the whine.
If it's doing it in FF now, then your OWB will probably fail very soon.

How can I bench test this? What causes this? I only have about 40 or so flights on my Protos.

Could belt tension be at fault?

At times I almost think the motors whine is actually speeding up, and not slowing down, which does make sense, right?

[mike d1]

Sounds like the belt or the OWB are slipping to me. Not sure how you can bench test it. Have you lubed the OWB?, because you are not supposed to. Seems the quality of the OWB's have been very spotty lately, some guys are having issues with them right out of the package. Also make sure the OWB isn't slipping on the motor shaft.

Mike

[ryguy76]

Originally Posted by mike d1

Sounds like the belt or the OWB are slipping to me. Not sure how you can bench test it. Have you lubed the OWB?, because you are not supposed to. Seems the quality of the OWB's have been very spotty lately, some guys are having issues with them right out of the package. Also make sure the OWB isn't slipping on the motor shaft.

Mike

I forget what I did with it when I built it. It may have got lubed, I honestly can't remember.

So just buy a new pinion if it appears to slip on the bench?

I doubt the belt is slipping, because I've always felt that it might be too tight, if anything. it moves the 2-3mm when pressed with driver tip under moderate pressure, (in both locations).

[ryguy76]

Update:

I turned the motor can by hand with a good degree of force while I held the main gear stationary and the OWB held with a force short of breaking the main gear or having the belt slip a tooth. I took the pinion out and it does seem a bit oily in there as my hands came out blackened after the removal and installation, but I can't conclude that anything is wrong with the OWB itself at this moment in time. Being that those are open bearings in the pinion, I did likely oil them lightly, but I would have done it sparingly knowing the OWB shouldn't get oiled for fear of slipping. So these open bearing should be run dry?

Anything else that I should look at?

I never noticed this behaviour before this weekend, but before I flew this weekend, I had recently added a Sat, reset the failsafe, reset the endpoints on the ESC, bumped up the cyclic response in the FBL and adjusted the ATV in the Tx. None of those changes make any sense for potential cause.

[banditpowdercoat]

Could be bad bearings. Idler bearing maybe. And they can add extra load to drivetrain when there going bad


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