Has abyone tried the new scorpion warp 360 motor on their mini P?

[scott s]

Is the belt slipping or your one way? Big differense and same result?

[Aryemis]

Originally Posted by scott s

Is the belt slipping or your one way? Big differense and same result?

Belt is slipping, one way slipping would not make black powder everywhere around the pinion.

[scott s]

check your front idler pulley for frozen bearing and/or deformed pulley. You guy's havvin so many problems and I have none! Time to step back and take a real good look IMO. Running it govorned should NOT make a bit of difference.

[scott s]

post some up close photos.

[DCflyer]

Doing my first pinion change on this thing and went to reference the MSH instructions to make sure I did it right, but it has no directions on pinion install. I forget how to do it - I have a new 15T and Y support here.

Green loctite the bearings inside the pinion? Then green loctite/CA onto the motor shaft? or no? I don't want to seize up this OWB by doing it incorrectly.

[Aryemis]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Doing my first pinion change on this thing and went to reference the MSH instructions to make sure I did it right, but it has no directions on pinion install. I forget how to do it - I have a new 15T and Y support here.

Green loctite the bearings inside the pinion? Then green loctite/CA onto the motor shaft? or no? I don't want to seize up this OWB by doing it incorrectly.

You don't need any green loctite on anything, unless you want to lock the OWB.
Just put the bearings in the pinion, and the the pinion on the shaft, the small washer on top of the pinion, and then the Y support with bearing.
Make sure the OWB spins the right way before setting the belt tension and locking the motor and Y supports in place.

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by Aryemis

You don't need any green loctite on anything, unless you want to lock the OWB.
Just put the bearings in the pinion, and the the pinion on the shaft, the small washer on top of the pinion, and then the Y support with bearing.
Make sure the OWB spins the right way before setting the belt tension and locking the motor and Y supports in place.

Sweet thanks man

[DCflyer]

One more thing.............do I need to reprogram my YGE's govstore (spooling it up to max throttle etc) when swapping a motor or do I just need to get in there and change timing/PWM and be good to go?

[Mikej]

You need to redo Gov-store

[DCflyer]

Ok, and as a follow up question.............can the govstore be done with the motor disconnected from the drivetrain or should I have the belt around it? Obviously the blades removed.

I did this a long time ago, but can't remember the process now.

[maarset]

You can do it either way. If you are going to keep the motor engaged I would remove main and tail blades. I had a slightly too high gear ratio and lost a tail blade doing the gov store full throttle. Not Fun!!!

[Chris Nifty]

What let go when you lost a tail blade? To date I have set up Gov Store on all my helis with mains & tails on, but I run lower gear ratios.

[Trexwilly]

I find I get better results when I do the calculation run-in with blades on, so long as the heli is not ubber over geared that is, if it is over geared I error on the side of caution and do the run-in sans blades.

On a "new build I do a calculation run-in no blades, then add them, get my trim flight and all other setups done, then I re-do the "store" step again...

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by Trexwilly

I find I get better results when I do the calculation run-in with blades on, so long as the heli is not ubber over geared that is, if it is over geared I error on the side of caution and do the run-in sans blades.

On a "new build I do a calculation run-in no blades, then add them, get my trim flight and all other setups done, then I re-do the "store" step again...

Ok got it.

Govstore at 4.0v/cell with belt on for some load.
Then tuning flight if I ever get this tail assembly on
Then redo govstore

Unplug BEC
Program card on
Then ESC on
activate govstore
unplug program card
unplug esc
cycle power - plug esc back in
low throttle with linear throttle curve at 100/100 endpoints
6 beeps counting off cells and then a chime signaling its ready for govstore spool
spool up to full throttle and hear the "hesitation"
spool down and unplug

Anything i'm missing here? Do I have to redo govstore if I swap pinions?

I don't have to redo my endpoints again do I? I guess I might as well.........

[Chris Nifty]

If you alter the gearing, yes you have to redo Gov Store. When I complete a new build, I just enable regular Gov, then spool her up to a reasonably high throttle with only the mains removed and check for vibes. If all good, I set Gov Store, install the mains, chuck in a battery @4V per cell and go outside and spool her up to 100% and wait for the tail kick.

[DCflyer]

Been busy, but was able to install the 2520 last night. Have some fitment issues.


Question - those of you that did this swap, what did you do with the motor wires to get good fitment? The issue is that the motor wires aren't really that long so when I try to slide the motor forward, the wires from my YGE will not go down into the airframe because the motor wires aren't long enough, causing the connectors to make a very tight "U-turn" down in the airframe. They're as far forward as the can go it seems.

Therefore, I can't slide my YGE up into the frame any farther without clearance issues (its in the nose cone under the battery tray), and this in turn creates fitment issues for the canopy.

Why is there always such limited space to work with on these machines? How did you guys get your motor and wires in there cleanly and how exactly are your YGE's mounted?

[Aryemis]

My YGE is mounted caps up, with the motor wires going outside the frame.