Joining the 700 club!

[B3NNZ]

Hey guys, I've been wanting a 700 size heli for a long time now and a couple of days ago I decided to step up from my 550 V2 DFC. I got a good deal from a good friend of mine with a Trex 700 DFC HV. I am replacing the 3GX with a AR7200BX and I shouldn't get the tail hum as the tails have been replaced radix tails. Also is the 750MX a strong motor? I've heard mixed opinions about it that the 800MX is worlds apart but others have said the 750MX isn't far behind. Advice is appreciated cheers!




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[escsniper]

I have the 750MMX in one of my 700s, and it is a great motor! Unless you are an insane stick banger, and want crazy power, there is no need to step up to the Dominator motor. Just my .02€!

Welcome to the club!

[zelman]

I to have had my Trex 700 DFC HV for a few weeks now and still getting use to it as don't won't to crash it yet have fun and let us all know how you go with it
but still love to fly the Trex 550

[B3NNZ]

Glad to hear that the 750MX is a strong motor! Hoping to fly it this weekend if everything arrives on time ect ect. Also how do you guys put the packs on the battery tray when your esc is at the back? No matter what I do all the wires and ec5s get stuck and there isn't enough room. Quite confused as I've only ever delt with one pack before.


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[escsniper]

I load my packs on the tray and connect my wiring harness to them. (I use EC5 connectors too) depending on my particular battery dimensions, I either run the wires along the bottom, or along the side of the packs. Then it is a matter of carefully feeding the wiring harness in ahead of the packs and guiding them along through the frame so they don't get hung up. A bit of a pain, but I really like the ESC in the back for extra cooling. I will try to post some pix later to illustrate if you need...

[escsniper]

Here are some pix.
First is the packs and harness
Second is the packs strapped on the tray
Third is the harness attached to the packs
Fourth is the wires guided into the frame
Next post has the wiring harness at the back of the heli at the ESC.

Hope it helps!

[escsniper]

And the last picture

[B3NNZ]

Ohk thank you for that. I will try that tomorrow and let you know how I get on.


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[B3NNZ]

I was still having problems after trying what you suggested and I had a friend help me out and he said my packs were slightly big. On his 700 the esc is mounted up front an it was a lot easier for the wires to get through when sliding it in. So we moved the esc up front on mine too. He has only overheated his esc twice with his mounted up front but he has the 800MX not the 750MX and he is very tough on his choppers. Thanks for your help


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[ddj74]

I sold my 120 esc straight out of the box and upgraded to a 160 and mounted up front. Never had an issue ever with over heating. I like a little head room makes for a happier esc and battery packs.

[B3NNZ]

Originally Posted by ddj74

I sold my 120 esc straight out of the box and upgraded to a 160 and mounted up front. Never had an issue ever with over heating. I like a little head room makes for a happier esc and battery packs.

Overheating won't be an issue but it's a 750MX not a 800. I think it's only necessary to upgrade to a 160 if you go 850 dominator. There is a fan my friend will be using on his esc and that will solve all the issues.


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[Excalibur3]

Castle has a 160 HVF now with a built in fan


TS3D#1
NanoCPX, TREX500DFC,
TREX700DFC HV, DX8

[rcflyerheli]

Originally Posted by escsniper

I load my packs on the tray and connect my wiring harness to them. (I use EC5 connectors too) depending on my particular battery dimensions, I either run the wires along the bottom, or along the side of the packs. Then it is a matter of carefully feeding the wiring harness in ahead of the packs and guiding them along through the frame so they don't get hung up. A bit of a pain, but I really like the ESC in the back for extra cooling. I will try to post some pix later to illustrate if you need...

I like the rear location as it keeps the ESC out in the open for cooling during hot weather flying.

There is definitely one caution though. On my 700, I used 6mm bullet plugs for the ESC-Bat connection. When you are threading them back into the frame, use caution as there is a definite ability to short the pack on the sharp edge of the frame. The flash that results when you make that goof will stay etched in your memory forever. I knew CF was supposed to be conductive, but I guarantee you I never dreamed just how conductive it is. I melted a 1/8 in notch in the side frame where the pack shorted. I replaced the female connectors on the battery as one of them had a notch (about 1/16 in) melted in it.

I'm just very careful when I insert the packs now.

Good luck in your new endeavors with your 700. You will definitely love the way it flies and the visibility you get from the larger size.

[Delljr]

Speaking of ESC. I'm in the process of building my first T-rex 700 DFC HV. I would like to put the Castle Creations 160 HVF (fan unit) My question is with the fan attached to the ESC. Will it fit in the nose of the helicopter?

[ddj74]

New 160 requires trimming if mounted up front. There's lots of options to mount it.

[utrinque]

Originally Posted by ddj74

I sold my 120 esc straight out of the box and upgraded to a 160 and mounted up front. Never had an issue ever with over heating. I like a little head room makes for a happier esc and battery packs.

Considering that my friend was able to draw >150A at 8S setup with Gaui X5. 160A regulator for 700 at 12S is good idea for high RPMs.

At high RPMs current draws increase expotentially not linearly comparing to low RPMs.

More safety headroom with small weight increase is good compromise.

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by utrinque

Considering that my friend was able to draw >150A at 8S setup with Gaui X5. 160A regulator for 700 at 12S is good idea for high RPMs.

At high RPMs current draws increase expotentially not linearly comparing to low RPMs.

More safety headroom with small weight increase is good compromise.

This is explained exactly how i saw it myself. Does it require a 160...no...but a happier esc is a happier heli. More headroom = less heat = cooler packs = longer life. I run a 750mx which a 120 will handle fine but why use something that barely covers the motors specs. Rather use something that will handle it and then some. Same goes for choosing lipo packs. More headroom = happier and longer life.

[songer121]

Originally Posted by ddj74

New 160 requires trimming if mounted up front. There's lots of options to mount it.

the CC 160 esc doesn't "require" any modifications to be fit in the front tray but a matter of how you mount it. if you want to cut on the front piece it might make it a little easier but it doesn't require and cutting to be done.

Originally Posted by Delljr

Speaking of ESC. I'm in the process of building my first T-rex 700 DFC HV. I would like to put the Castle Creations 160 HVF (fan unit) My question is with the fan attached to the ESC. Will it fit in the nose of the helicopter?

i dont have the fan unit on mine but if it were there it would fit just fine. the hole top side of the esc doesn't have anything around it so a fan on it wouldn't be bothered by anything. so im 99% sure a fan would fit fine. AKA go for it

[ddj74]

Everyone I've seen with the new edge 160 had to notch the front area because of the capacitors. I know the ice2 160 fits. Shouldnt be installed if the caps are touching because it can/will eventually snap them off over time.

[taoY]

I was able to fit CC Edge 160 on the top of the front section in front of the gyro platform without any mod.

On the side, it can fit without mod but it won't fit squarely and the capacitors are kind of exposed. It is possible but I won't do I personally.