Protos 500 Build

[photocycler]

Got my Savox 1290 MG tail servo, had a couple questions

1) I plan to run it backwards per finless videos, do I need to do anything different for setup, shoudl the servo wheel still be closet to the rear of the heli as if I were running it on the other side?

2) The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

[wbefield]

Originally Posted by photocycler

The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

I used a dremel ground the shorter single holed adaptors so they would clear the ridge.

I have photos in post 18 in my build thread.
www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=369118&highlight=wbefield's&page= 2

[Jomaba4308]

Originally Posted by photocycler

Got my Savox 1290 MG tail servo, had a couple questions

1) I plan to run it backwards per finless videos, do I need to do anything different for setup, shoudl the servo wheel still be closet to the rear of the heli as if I were running it on the other side?

2) The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

1) Install the servo as a mirror image from what is shown in the manual.

2) I had the same problem with my cyclic servos so I used a dremel to cut off most of the ridges and a fine file to make it flush with the tab and servo case.

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[photocycler]

Originally Posted by wbefield

I used a dremel ground the shorter single holed adaptors so they would clear the ridge.

I have photos in post 18 in my build thread.
www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=369118&highlight=wbefield's&page= 2

Originally Posted by Jomaba4308

1) Install the servo as a mirror image from what is shown in the manual.

2) I had the same problem with my cyclic servos so I used a dremel to cut off most of the ridges and a fine file to make it flush with the tab and servo case.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk

perfect, thx guys

[photocycler]

Should I setup the ESC before setting up the BeastX?

I think I am going to govern at 2500 which should be a good docile setting, didn't get the YGE program card but may get it if it makes for an easier setup


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[d1esel]

Originally Posted by photocycler

The servo has ridges on the top part of the servo mounting areas which prevents me from using the servo screw adapters which came with the protos kit, should I just skip the protos adapters and use washers?

It's not necessary to mod your tail servo. The servo adapters go on the under side of the tail servo. There is a recessed groove in the servo mounts to accommodate the ridge on top of the servo mounting tabs.

[photocycler]

Still waiting for my ball link sizer as some links are tight

Also waiting for pitch gauge but I may see how far in the beastX setup I can go

Got my servo arms at 90, I assume the next step is to level mixing arms? Anyone have the length for the links?

[BlazinBones]

Originally Posted by photocycler

Still waiting for my ball link sizer as some links are tight

Also waiting for pitch gauge but I may see how far in the beastX setup I can go

Got my servo arms at 90, I assume the next step is to level mixing arms? Anyone have the length for the links?

On my set up, the 3 links from the servos to swash are 28mm ( thats the size of the exposed part of the rod, not the total length). On the swash to blade grips is 53mm (part of the rod thats exposed as well and not the total length). This put me right at 0* on the blades with all cyclic servos at 90*.

As far as the BX, you'll be able to do everything without a pitch gauge, except for step J as well as setting your roll pitch and collective pitch which is no biggie. Once you get your gauge, it's a snap to go back to those steps and setup quickly. Just make sure when you are setting your pitch with a digital gauge, that your swashplate is level with the horizon as the Protos 500 have a rake which makes the tail higher in a normal stance.

I placed a digital angle finder on my boom block (if you have the BX mounted there, then put right on top of the BX) and shimmed the front part of my skids till the gauge read "0". Then I proceeded to set my Roll and Collective pitch.

[photocycler]

Originally Posted by BlazinBones

On my set up, the 3 links from the servos to swash are 28mm ( thats the size of the exposed part of the rod, not the total length). On the swash to blade grips is 53mm (part of the rod thats exposed as well and not the total length). This put me right at 0* on the blades with all cyclic servos at 90*.

As far as the BX, you'll be able to do everything without a pitch gauge, except for step J as well as setting your roll pitch and collective pitch which is no biggie. Once you get your gauge, it's a snap to go back to those steps and setup quickly. Just make sure when you are setting your pitch with a digital gauge, that your swashplate is level with the horizon as the Protos 500 have a rake which makes the tail higher in a normal stance.

I placed a digital angle finder on my boom block (if you have the BX mounted there, then put right on top of the BX) and shimmed the front part of my skids till the gauge read "0". Then I proceeded to set my Roll and Collective pitch.

great thx, is there a trick to fasten the ESC with the supplied O-Ring? I fastened the ring to the frame mounts and the ESC is floating around and not being fastened

[BlazinBones]

Originally Posted by photocycler

great thx, is there a trick to fasten the ESC with the supplied O-Ring? I fastened the ring to the frame mounts and the ESC is floating around and not being fastened

I used velcro under the battery mounting plate and the flat side of the ESC and it stays put very well. I also use an Align strap for the battery instead of the rubber orings, so that also ads extra support for the esc as it runs right under it.

[photocycler]

Originally Posted by BlazinBones

I used velcro under the battery mounting plate and the flat side of the ESC and it stays put very well. I also use an Align strap for the battery instead of the rubber orings, so that also ads extra support for the esc as it runs right under it.

Perfect thx, unfortunately...seems my new DX7s scroll wheel died and now can't get into setup to switch to the model I need to setup the protos..err


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[photocycler]

while I wait the return of my DX7s from HH service, I purchased a JR ball link sizing tool to size the ball links, seems its too big and doesnt fit.

Can anyone recommend a way to size the ball links without a tool, I see there is a tool msh sells for the mini which may work but dont see it in stock

[alexf1852]

It's the same tool that comes with the 500. If you can find it, get it. Check Amain, ExperienceRC, ReadyHeli, HeliDirect, ElektroRC, or ask MSH-Direct (pm him).

[photocycler]

Originally Posted by alexf1852

It's the same tool that comes with the 500. If you can find it, get it. Check Amain, ExperienceRC, ReadyHeli, HeliDirect, ElektroRC, or ask MSH-Direct (pm him).

so I should have one in my kit?

[d1esel]

I don't think the link sizer comes with the kits anymore, mine didn't. No reason to buy one. Make one out of your spare FB parts. Take an extra ball, thread it on to a cross ball, and then score the ball a couple times with a razor knife. It works like a charm, you will have a perfectly sized link.

[photocycler]

Such a long build...sent my DX7s in for repair (brand new by the way)

So I am sitting waiting for my TX and still need to do the following

- set beastX up
- set YGE up

I have run thru a million time and checked everything else while I wait, anyone recommend anything else I can do while I wait?

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[photocycler]

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?

[wbefield]

Originally Posted by photocycler

so I should have one in my kit?

I received a ball link sizer in my kit which was purchased in January

[Jomaba4308]

Originally Posted by photocycler

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?

That is fine as long as they don't bind on anything, the only purpose those arms serve is to drive the inner swash ring.

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[crickr1]

Originally Posted by photocycler

Going thru beastX setup now, servo arms are close to 90...mixing arms not level...does this look right?

Photocycler, not important to be level but, usually are with stock parts. Make sure you have equal travel +/- after your servos are "Centered". You can then work backward if you need to, readjust links from servo to swash, then swash to blades. Ideally you want, Servos centered, blades "0" pitch, swash at center of travel. Swash locks not important. But 0 pitch centered travel is priority.