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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 02-20-2013, 04:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VooDooMafia View Post
Yea I am going to hit the States and get some Deoxit this week

so full of questions I am lol cause here is another.....

Should I put anything or do anything to the motor when its installed to keep it from moving or is the molder on the frame snug enough to keep it from twisting?

If I do need to put something on it where is the best place to apply

Thanks to everyone that has chimed in for this thread BTW is making things a bit less frustrating lol
When I replaced my motor, there was some black squishy glue on the side I had to scrape off. So I put some liquid electrical tape there when I put it together. I put a blob on both the top and bottom frame. Dunno if it's needed, but a slipping motor couldn't be good.
I learned a long time ago with helicopter maintenance that vibration makes EVERYTHING move. It's simply amazing.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GoatRider View Post
When I replaced my motor, there was some black squishy glue on the side I had to scrape off. So I put some liquid electrical tape there when I put it together. I put a blob on both the top and bottom frame. Dunno if it's needed, but a slipping motor couldn't be good.
I learned a long time ago with helicopter maintenance that vibration makes EVERYTHING move. It's simply amazing.
I'm on my fourth motor and have not glued them in as the original motor was glued in. They have remained seated in place just as the one that was glued in. I my experience there is no need for glue unless you are crashing a lot.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well I think I will put a dab of glue just to be safe as I have tons of minor crashes in the house with this thing.

Going to pop across the boarder tonight to get some Deoxit as well.

Now what would be the best way to get the pitch set right on these ( not sure if it matters but I am just using the Dx4e)

I did replace the swash to a MH one and think pitch might be a bit off as well.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:31 PM   #24 (permalink)
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So today I stripped the Nano down, cleaned servos, installed new motor, new Main Gear and main shaft.

Put everything back together and went to try it out with some new batteries I just picked up today.

Heli took off but then slowly drifted back down and would only hover about half inch off the ground then it would ground it self.

The main gear is snug against the bearing in the frame.

Not sure what to try next

any suggestions would be great.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:46 PM   #25 (permalink)
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If you spin the main gear by hand and your getting binding. Pull the main
shaft its either bent or the collar is to lopsided causing your
binding issue. The lynx main shaft seems to be much more accurate
in terms of the collar.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 52Heli View Post
If you spin the main gear by hand and your getting binding. Pull the main
shaft its either bent or the collar is to lopsided causing your
binding issue. The lynx main shaft seems to be much more accurate
in terms of the collar.
Does not seem to be binding and I just installed new main gear and shaft.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:40 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VooDooMafia View Post
So today I stripped the Nano down, cleaned servos, installed new motor, new Main Gear and main shaft.

Put everything back together and went to try it out with some new batteries I just picked up today.

Heli took off but then slowly drifted back down and would only hover about half inch off the ground then it would ground it self.

The main gear is snug against the bearing in the frame.

Not sure what to try next

any suggestions would be great.
Check 0 pitch.

- Turn TX with TH one, bind and turn off again.
- Check swash is level (eyball, zip-tie, swash leveler, whatever takes your fancy). Adjust servo-swash push rod lengths.
- Turn TX with TH one, bind and ensure collective is 50%, turn off TX.
- Check 0 pitch (swing both left then both right, should be even, swing both right, should still be even (or match blade grip lines with centre mark, or remove blades and use toothpicks in the blade grip screw holes)). As swash is level, adjust servo swash pushrod lengths evenly.

Also check main gear is not too snug against motor pinion throughout a full main shaft rotation. Main gear binding reduces power and shortens motor life (greater heat).

As you have a new main shaft, 0 pitch often goes out.
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:48 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Check 0 pitch.

- Turn TX with TH one, bind and turn off again.
- Check swash is level (eyball, zip-tie, swash leveler, whatever takes your fancy). Adjust servo-swash push rod lengths.
- Turn TX with TH one, bind and ensure collective is 50%, turn off TX.
- Check 0 pitch (swing both left then both right, should be even, swing both right, should still be even (or match blade grip lines with centre mark, or remove blades and use toothpicks in the blade grip screw holes)). As swash is level, adjust servo swash pushrod lengths evenly.

Also check main gear is not too snug against motor pinion throughout a full main shaft rotation. Main gear binding reduces power and shortens motor life (greater heat).

As you have a new main shaft, 0 pitch often goes out.
^1

I haven't noticed anything mentioned about wiring,
Whenever I hear about a blade micro loosing power, I think
- bad motor
- bad wiring
That's normally most of the causes, if not, it's on to the mechanics

Many of the brushless nano conversions need their battery connections replacing, it follows that this can also be an issue with some brushed nanos

- check the battery wires on to the main board, some are only connected with a few strands
- splay the pins slightly on the motor connector, there should be some resistance as the plug is inserted
- look in the battery connector, both pins should be level, if in doubt, new connectors can be bought from Astroid
- Beyond that gets a bit more tenuous, have you had a broken boom? partially shorting tail motor wires can rob current, the same goes for a tail motor on the way out

Hope this helps a little
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:04 AM   #29 (permalink)
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well went through it again today, made sure swash was level and pitch was correct, but even after 2 new main gears and shafts there still seems to be some binding and when it does fly it gets about 4 feet before it goes back down.

I do notice that after putting in teh MH swach with antirotation guide at the rear, the rear servo arm rubs against the guide.

How freely should the rotor spin? with no gear on it will spin a few times with a light push but of course there is no resistance from teh motor pinion.

Starting to think it time for this bird to hit the bin

Might mike one more parts order before I just give up on this thing lol
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:38 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VooDooMafia View Post
well went through it again today, made sure swash was level and pitch was correct, but even after 2 new main gears and shafts there still seems to be some binding and when it does fly it gets about 4 feet before it goes back down.

I do notice that after putting in teh MH swach with antirotation guide at the rear, the rear servo arm rubs against the guide.

How freely should the rotor spin? with no gear on it will spin a few times with a light push but of course there is no resistance from teh motor pinion.

Starting to think it time for this bird to hit the bin

Might mike one more parts order before I just give up on this thing lol
Servo arms should not rub. Bend to ensure no contact.

Assuming brushed motor from here on in.

Without main gear on, is there any friction turning the motor pinion (should be almost none).

Since a normal brushed motor should also have little friction when turning. If there is binding friction between the main gear and the motor pinion, it's usually and oval main gear (this kills battery life, motors, head speed, main boards, etc.. real bad!). If this is the case, and possible, take nano and main gears back to place of purchase of main gears and ask for replacements (or refund) for the main gears as the provided parts are not "fit for purpose". Check any replacements in store on your nano before accepting.

Mine are stock (not BL), and when spinning down from 100% throttle do at least 5 rotations (usually many more), before gently coming to rest.

May seem an odd check, but what is your TX pitch curve and travel adjust (for pitch). TA for pitch should be 100% down and 100% up. Pitch curve should range from 0 to 100. (I'm assuming you have a programmable TX like DX6i, DX7s or DX8. If using the RTF TX these will be correct).

Assuming you are getting positive pitch when on ground only real remaining option is the head speed is not staying high enough to keep you in the air.

Check connection of motor to main board. Ensure connection is good and tight. Bend the pins slightly if required to ensure good contact with insides of mount.

Ensure battery lead wires are solidly connected to main board.

You mentioned you replaced batteries and motor. Are you using the stock charger? If so are the batteries in the charger fresh? (may be under-charging the batteries). I use a separate charger and can see the battery voltage (which is 4.20v fully charged). Batteries should not be run to LVC.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:18 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Servo arms should not rub. Bend to ensure no contact.

Assuming brushed motor from here on in.

Without main gear on, is there any friction turning the motor pinion (should be almost none).

Since a normal brushed motor should also have little friction when turning. If there is binding friction between the main gear and the motor pinion, it's usually and oval main gear (this kills battery life, motors, head speed, main boards, etc.. real bad!). If this is the case, and possible, take nano and main gears back to place of purchase of main gears and ask for replacements (or refund) for the main gears as the provided parts are not "fit for purpose". Check any replacements in store on your nano before accepting.

Mine are stock (not BL), and when spinning down from 100% throttle do at least 5 rotations (usually many more), before gently coming to rest.

May seem an odd check, but what is your TX pitch curve and travel adjust (for pitch). TA for pitch should be 100% down and 100% up. Pitch curve should range from 0 to 100. (I'm assuming you have a programmable TX like DX6i, DX7s or DX8. If using the RTF TX these will be correct).

Assuming you are getting positive pitch when on ground only real remaining option is the head speed is not staying high enough to keep you in the air.

Check connection of motor to main board. Ensure connection is good and tight. Bend the pins slightly if required to ensure good contact with insides of mount.

Ensure battery lead wires are solidly connected to main board.

You mentioned you replaced batteries and motor. Are you using the stock charger? If so are the batteries in the charger fresh? (may be under-charging the batteries). I use a separate charger and can see the battery voltage (which is 4.20v fully charged). Batteries should not be run to LVC.
I will check motor pinion and see what its like when the main gear is off. If it does not spin freely as it should is there a fix for this or just replace the motor?

I think one of the most frustrating things is buying "new" parts and have them be the problem.

I can't take the main gears back as I ordered them online due to my LHS never having parts in stock and when they do order them in when asked it takes months.

I am using the RTF dx4e TX (should have not sold my dx6i when I sold my old blade cp pro few years back )

As for charger I am using the eflite 4 port charger and I leave the batteries on until the light no longer blinks.

I appreciate the help everyone has given and the suggestions people have made and have/will try each one of them.

I can hear the head speed get slower and slower on this bird even with a fresh battery.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:03 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I will check motor pinion and see what its like when the main gear is off. If it does not spin freely as it should is there a fix for this or just replace the motor?
In this case, replace motor. The motors do have good and bad batches (and fail prematurely when stressed.

Do not run a motor with a main gear that binds at points.

Try not to run motors back to back as excess heat can soften/weaken components inside the motors (shortening life span).
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:37 PM   #33 (permalink)
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In this case, replace motor. The motors do have good and bad batches (and fail prematurely when stressed.

Do not run a motor with a main gear that binds at points.

Try not to run motors back to back as excess heat can soften/weaken components inside the motors (shortening life span).
Well put new motor in ( without main gear the new one spun a lot better) and still binds a bit.

Tried a third new main gear and same thing. I did think bearing might be going but head spins nice and smooth when main gear is not attached.

Guess I will have to try another main gear and see if that helps.

Be so much better if my LHS had parts and I could take others back
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:04 PM   #34 (permalink)
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As for charger I am using the eflite 4 port charger and I leave the batteries on until the light no longer blinks.


I can hear the head speed get slower and slower on this bird even with a fresh battery.
Whether batteries are being properly (meaning fully) charged needs to be fully explored also.

Eventually you will want a computerized charger and now may be a good time for it.

You can spend $20-$50 for something you will outgrow eventually or $200 and up for something you may never outgrow. I guess I'd put the PL6 or PL8 in the never outgrow category.

For cheap, but still 100 times better than your 4 port charger the Accucel-6 is but one of many good options. Get it along with a 6 battery parallel charging harness.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...cessories.html

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._6_plugs_.html

Yes, I know the items I linked to were out of stock as of this post. You can pay a little more and buy equally useful items elsewhere such as ebay, progressiverc, epbuddy, etc., or wait for them to return to stock or check the overseas warehouse.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:25 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by megawhacker View Post
Whether batteries are being properly (meaning fully) charged needs to be fully explored also.

Eventually you will want a computerized charger and now may be a good time for it.

You can spend $20-$50 for something you will outgrow eventually or $200 and up for something you may never outgrow. I guess I'd put the PL6 or PL8 in the never outgrow category.

For cheap, but still 100 times better than your 4 port charger the Accucel-6 is but one of many good options. Get it along with a 6 battery parallel charging harness.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...cessories.html

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._6_plugs_.html

Yes, I know the items I linked to were out of stock as of this post. You can pay a little more and buy equally useful items elsewhere such as ebay, progressiverc, epbuddy, etc., or wait for them to return to stock or check the overseas warehouse.
I k ow I need a better charger and thanks for the links but t this point it's def not the batteries and it's something with the bird it self
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:54 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Have you tried rotating the motor to see if that helps with the binding main gear? I don't know if it is folk lore or just true on some out of spec motors, but some say they have found the pinion to be slightly off center. Theoretically this allows a very fine mesh adjustment.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:31 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Have you tried rotating the motor to see if that helps with the binding main gear? I don't know if it is folk lore or just true on some out of spec motors, but some say they have found the pinion to be slightly off center. Theoretically this allows a very fine mesh adjustment.
Yes I have tried this and it did not work
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:26 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Well after 3 motors, 3 main gears and 3 main shafts I finally got the binding issue taken care of and the bird was back in the air. Unfortunately the rear mount anti rotation guide for the MH swash broke and before this the heli would shake a bit in the air.

Contacted MH and have a new guide on the way and should be here by friday. Glad the bird is back up (or will be ) now just need to take care of the shake.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:56 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Glad to hear that you haven't given up. It can get frustrating but I usually find I learn enough to make it worth while.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:33 PM   #40 (permalink)
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So did you pinpoint the binding?Glad you figured it out mine shakes somtimes to let me no what you find.thanx
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