Home made flybar lock

[3DME]

This is a home made flybar lock for a Predator. It is easy to make, just take a flat piece of carbon/aluminum about 120mm long and drill a hole in the center. then drill two holes 50mm from the center. I used the 3mm threaded rods from a MA tail contol rod and double nutted it to the flat piece. Then I cut the ball link so it snaps on the flybar and thread it on the 3mm all thread rods. The reason I used the double nut/all thread method is because you are limited to half turns with just the ball link, and I wanted to be able to adjust it so the ball links were EXACTLY the same length from the flat plate, some times it is not always possible with just the haff turn that the ball link gives you. This is important because if you are off a little close to the head, it will be way off out by the paddle. After you get it adjusted, cut the excess threaded rod off and you are done. The really cool thing is that the flybar is still allowed to turn(twist). This helps during set-up. The only drawback is you have to remove the head button to install the flybar lock, but the benifit is you would almost have to be blind to forget to remove it before flight. This has happened more than once, belive me. This may also work on other helis that use a bolt on head button and have a flat surface to mount on.

Mike

[Foxden]

Dude,

That's pretty slick

[3DME]

Thanks Clyde.

Mike

[flybyheli]

Thanks for sharing your brillient idea with us . i was looking for something like this .


great work

Originally Posted by 3DME

This is a home made flybar lock for a Predator. It is easy to make, just take a flat piece of carbon/aluminum about 120mm long and drill a hole in the center. then drill two holes 50mm from the center. I used the 3mm threaded rods from a MA tail contol rod and double nutted it to the flat piece. Then I cut the ball link so it snaps on the flybar and thread it on the 3mm all thread rods. The reason I used the double nut/all thread method is because you are limited to half turns with just the ball link, and I wanted to be able to adjust it so the ball links were EXACTLY the same length from the flat plate, some times it is not always possible with just the haff turn that the ball link gives you. This is important because if you are off a little close to the head, it will be way off out by the paddle. After you get it adjusted, cut the excess threaded rod off and you are done. The really cool thing is that the flybar is still allowed to turn(twist). This helps during set-up. The only drawback is you have to remove the head button to install the flybar lock, but the benifit is you would almost have to be blind to forget to remove it before flight. This has happened more than once, belive me. This may also work on other helis that use a bolt on head button and have a flat surface to mount on.

Mike

[frankos72]

Seems like a well crafted item, but I'm afraid I don't know what this is for. I've only been in the hobby for a few months. Please, do tell what is it's purpose as I might like to make one if I have a need.

[Tim Tompkins]

To check the blade angle, you first lock the flybar in a level plane. Then , with the pitch gauge mounted on a blade you get a full range check of your pitch. With this still locked you can check and adjust both blades to be the same. The level flybar gives you the constant point you are measuring against. Both sides are measured from the same plane. I use a bubble level on the flybar. TimT

[frankos72]

oh sweet!!! I've just been eyeballing that the flybar is level.

[trevorz]

Good job, that is a clever idea.

[JEB123]

Very sharp! I knew there had to be an easier way! Good job!

[JEB123]

I made one for my TRex using a piece of electronics perf board and 2 Sullivan golden clevises screwed in all the way against the board. Just turn the clevises sideways so the cross pins sit flat against the flybar. Remove the head button and use a longer screw to attach the board onto the top of the head til it sits flush. Be careful as too long a screw will hit the feathering spindle. You may need to spread the legs of the clevises a little. It turned out to be the exact length to hold the flybar level! it works great!

[capnscruffy]

looks awesome! quality fabrication, looks like the one i made out of aluminum last year. your carbon version looks much cooler! i'm gonna have to make me one.

[rreichar]

I made a similar device about a year ago. Compared to yours mine is a piece of camel dung. I intend to copy yours. Great work! Thank you.