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Old 06-17-2011, 05:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Have you installed the extra silver washers in the main grips? And also I dry fitted the main gear and tail gear using the included shims and installed them according to the manual. The main gear is rubbing on the frame. Did you have this problem?
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:24 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Have you installed the extra silver washers in the main grips? And also I dry fitted the main gear and tail gear using the included shims and installed them according to the manual. The main gear is rubbing on the frame. Did you have this problem?
No, my main gear isnt rubbing. Does your frame have the notch for the main gear? From top to bottom I have the 10-16-0.2 washer,belt drive gear,10-16-0.5 washer,main gear,then snap ring. Yes, I installed 1 0.5 washer (in addition to the brass colored washer) in each grip and there is absolutely no play now=worked like a charm! Thanks again for the info! Hmm, snap a picture of your assembled gear train so I can take a look at it.
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:48 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Welcome to my electronic nightmare!! I know its probably a little OCD but I always shorten my servo leads to get as clean of a look as I can. Im not one to ever switch electronics between helis and in the unlikely event that I did I would just solder a new lead on the servo PCB. I have several different colors of servo connectors that I use common to all my helis. I make all channel 1 servos blue,Channel 2 black,channel 3 red. Makes it easy when I install them in the V Bar (when they are all zip tied together it makes it kinda hard to tell which lead goes to which servo-thus the colored servo connectors).
Here I have one shortened and crimped:

The finished product:

Connected to V Bar:

Getting there-what a mess

Almost looks like a heli

Oh, after giving it some thought I decided on extending the main power wires from the Hercules BEC instead of the small wires. I did this mainly because I wanted it in the path of the rotor wash. Installing it under the canopy would look cleaner but at the expense of air flow. Instead of just soldering the 2 wires together I use a modified bullet connector to get a good connection.

Im hoping work doesn't call me out this weekend so I can finish it up-i hope!
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:02 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I finished installing the main shaft and gears. I have to use both shims included in the kit between the bottom shaft bearing and tail pulley plus 2 align spacers from my 550 kit between the main gear and tail gear so the main gear wont rub the frame. Not sure if this is ok.
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:19 AM   #25 (permalink)
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i finished yesterday. but i don´t have so much cables...




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Old 06-18-2011, 09:14 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Did you guys glue the tail bearings to the tail case?
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:47 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Did you guys glue the tail bearings to the tail case?
yes.
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:43 PM   #28 (permalink)
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[quote=torro;3020184]i finished yesterday. but i don´t have so much cables...



Are you having any interference issues between the wires and swashplate running them up top like that? Man, lookin good/clean! I would keep an eye on that electrical tape holding your boom static wire in place=that would suck to get that wrapped up in the main gear. Did you maiden it yet? Im sure you already know, but keep an eye on that ESC before you let her get too far off the ground. It looks like your wiring is short enough that you might not have to worry about it . I used an ice 120HV on my Trex700E, but modified it to a cap bank per Castle recommendation (via e mail). 27 stick bangin flights on it with no hiccup!! Plus you gotta love the castle data log!! Oh, and I am totally open to pointers if someone sees something that might cause issues with my setup/wiring. Better now than when it is running at 2100+RPM!!
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:57 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinWalk3r View Post
yes.
Oh shizzle, is there that much of a problem with them spinning/coming out of the tail case? I had to press mine in it was so tight.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:51 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I also have OCD and shorten all my servo wires with a crimp tool.

Looking good
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Alright, here is the finished product-FINALLY!!
Doing the static wire ohms test=0.8 ohms

Side shot all wired up

Back shot all wired up

Installing finishing touches-this is how I get decals off the transfer paper backing. I roll the paper while lightly pinching the decal=works awesome!

And here you have it my friends-damn shes beautiful!

As ironic as it is I forgot to order EC5 male plugs for the esc!!DOH!!! Maiden wont be for a couple days (or for as long as it takes to get from Readyheli to me=thank God for Readyheli!)
.
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:42 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Did you have to connect your ground wire to the ESC? I see you have it going to the motor mount.
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Old 06-18-2011, 04:07 PM   #33 (permalink)
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maiden flight was today. 1400, 1600 and 1800rpm. no problems at all.

the sound @ 1400rpm is so cool.

i´ll change the tape at the static-cable, i just don´t know how...

there´s enough space between the cables and the swash. i put some motor-winding-wire in it, so it won´t move.

i now the problems with ice120hv. the flight today showed a ripple voltage about 1V. i think that´s ok. i installed a fan on the ESC and the cables between batt/ESC/motor are very short. we´ll see...
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:02 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Hey Diesel, long time, no talk/type! I'm just seeing your thread now and all looks good! I hope you get those EC5 connectors soon so you can maiden asap!

Quote:
Originally Posted by torro View Post
Oh, and I am totally open to pointers if someone sees something that might cause issues with my setup/wiring. Better now than when it is running at 2100+RPM!!
Of course, the headspeed is up to you, but Mikado recommends something like 1800 RPM max, but most people run at 1900 RPM no problem and it flies fine because it's a lot lighter than a 700E. Above those speeds, then things get a little iffy. Blade bolts will start to bend and the thrust bearings probably won't be very happy. Not sure if you had the Quick UK (metal) tail w/metal grips, but that's really the only upgrade I'd recommend, even at 1900 RPM.

I know some guys are running their 700Es at 2200 and even higher, but of course, the 600SE at 1900 isn't gonna smack like 700E because of the lower RPM. Just something to think about. If you want to go a little higher than, say, 1900 -- some people are using the RJX FBL head. I have one and plan to put it on one of my 600SEs in the next few days. (The only thing holding me up is that I have to drill a new jesus bolt in the main shaft about 22mm lower than the current one. And Mikado shafts *are* hardened so it might take a few tries with a drill press.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel View Post
Oh shizzle, is there that much of a problem with them spinning/coming out of the tail case? I had to press mine in it was so tight.
It's a good idea to glue the flanged bearings into the tail case with a light coat of 30-minute epoxy. Just be sure that the bearings are pressed squarely into the CF tail case.

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Originally Posted by torro View Post
maiden flight was today. 1400, 1600 and 1800rpm. no problems at all.

the sound @ 1400rpm is so cool.
@torro: it's always great when you have an uneventful maiden! Yes, the sound at 1400 is very cool. I have a 600SE set up for low speed flying, using asymmetrical SpinBlades. I can fly it at 1050 RPM -- and probably lower, but no need to go lower than that. You can actually do some (very) mild 3D at that headspeed!

BTW, do you have a PowerCroco in your 600SE??? I think so, and if yes... Very NICE!
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:51 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hey Diesel, long time, no talk/type! I'm just seeing your thread now and all looks good! I hope you get those EC5 connectors soon so you can maiden asap!



Of course, the headspeed is up to you, but Mikado recommends something like 1800 RPM max, but most people run at 1900 RPM no problem and it flies fine because it's a lot lighter than a 700E. Above those speeds, then things get a little iffy. Blade bolts will start to bend and the thrust bearings probably won't be very happy. Not sure if you had the Quick UK (metal) tail w/metal grips, but that's really the only upgrade I'd recommend, even at 1900 RPM.

I know some guys are running their 700Es at 2200 and even higher, but of course, the 600SE at 1900 isn't gonna smack like 700E because of the lower RPM. Just something to think about. If you want to go a little higher than, say, 1900 -- some people are using the RJX FBL head. I have one and plan to put it on one of my 600SEs in the next few days. (The only thing holding me up is that I have to drill a new jesus bolt in the main shaft about 22mm lower than the current one. And Mikado shafts *are* hardened so it might take a few tries with a drill press.)



It's a good idea to glue the flanged bearings into the tail case with a light coat of 30-minute epoxy. Just be sure that the bearings are pressed squarely into the CF tail case.

BTW, do you have a PowerCroco in your 600SE??? I think so, and if yes... Very NICE!
Its not easy to get a "Powercroco" from what ive researched.Its my understanding that they are hand wound by the DR himself-and you have to fork out some pretty big cheese or wait for the owner of one to die in order to get one. Mine kinda looks a bit wimpy when you see one of those. Thanks for the pointers "electricsheep",good to hear from you and keep those pointers coming. Darn, im gonna have to disassemble the tail and epoxy those puppies in there! Thanks for the pointer on the head speed, im still stuck in the Align frame of mind. Oh, and you arnt kidding about the weight difference-its amazing how much lighter the Mikado is. How do I know-here are the 2 brother from two different 44.4V mothers:



LIFE IS GOOD MY FRIENDS---LIFE IS GOOOOOD!
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:46 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUBA View Post
I also have OCD and shorten all my servo wires with a crimp tool.

Looking good
OCD loves company-its good to be among friends!
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:16 AM   #37 (permalink)
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the motor is made by me. i´m still student at powercroco.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:32 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Did you have to connect your ground wire to the ESC? I see you have it going to the motor mount.
Was that question for me? If so,no-I went all the way to the esc battery wire. I have heard some people still have problems when grounding to the battery mount. I have to be honest though,on 2 of my other helis I am grounded to the motor mount and they have no issues.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:36 AM   #39 (permalink)
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the motor is made by me. i´m still student at powercroco.
No way!! Im not worthy! . Thats awesome torro!! SO how would someone from the States go about getting one of these impossible to get motors?
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:23 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torro View Post
the motor is made by me. i´m still student at powercroco.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel View Post
No way!! Im not worthy! . Thats awesome torro!! SO how would someone from the States go about getting one of these impossible to get motors?
@torro: Student at PowerCroco??? Can you work on a PowerCroco project for me? But seriously, I have the same question as Diesel (above).

In the meantime, the closest I can get is the Scorpion 4530 Limited Edition for my TDR, pictured below:



Diesel, sorry -- I don't mean to threadjack here, but we have the same question... Hope you'll forgive me!
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