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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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08-21-2009, 02:45 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Your sticker on your canopy is not aligned properly. JK :-P
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08-21-2009, 03:11 PM | #42 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Nah ....the Ultimate bling is Flybarless... no question.
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Logo 500SE, Gyrobot 900, Jive 80HV, BLS251, Scorpion 4025-1100 Trex 500, I2 FBL Head, JR3517's, Gyrobot 700, JR8900G, CC ICE75, Scorpion 3026-1400 Trex 250, Flybarless, Gyrobot 900, Innolab 201 |
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08-21-2009, 03:28 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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That is just too funny! Those needle nose marks on mine have had me PO'd for the longest time.
I got the CNC all set to make the new ones and we're under a brownout due to a nasty storm. It won't even power up the voltage is so low. At least the internet is working. Regarding the ultimate trex, I don't know, I still prefer the sound of I nice old analog tube amp over digital sound. At very least, we gotta preserve nostalgia don't we? |
08-22-2009, 02:13 PM | #45 (permalink) | |
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Bob the I2 head is awesome! I flew 4 packs with it today, and the collective and cyclic are so much more responsive, it truly works very well. I have made my throws very similar to what I was using with the Mikado conversion. The heli is much more accurately positioned with the I2. It makes 50km/h, 30cm off the grass passes easy. In flips and rolls the cyclic response is much quicker now, although I am using the same throws and expo as before. I think the lessened slop makes things happen way quicker. To sum up, it has a sharper all round feel, and more precise controls. I only have 4 packs down so far, but I am loving it.
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Logo 500SE, Gyrobot 900, Jive 80HV, BLS251, Scorpion 4025-1100 Trex 500, I2 FBL Head, JR3517's, Gyrobot 700, JR8900G, CC ICE75, Scorpion 3026-1400 Trex 250, Flybarless, Gyrobot 900, Innolab 201 |
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08-22-2009, 05:00 PM | #46 (permalink) | ||
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I used to do a similar thing when I used to fly my Mikado conversion. Quote:
Stay tuned. I'm really thrilled how the new connecting rods came out. I'll post some pics in a few. Bob IČ |
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08-22-2009, 06:16 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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Here you go.
I might have missed on them being tool-less unless you have really strong fingers. They seemed good at first but after sitting a while they get hard to turn. Anyway, they are a LOT easier to adjust with a needle nose...without scratching so easy. Even better would be a 4 or 5mm open end wrench. This would make it a breeze. http://www.bettymills.com/shop/produ...referer=search Bob |
08-23-2009, 10:22 AM | #48 (permalink) |
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Those look great Bob... I am using the T500 short rods at the moment, not quite as adjustable, but they work fine.
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Logo 500SE, Gyrobot 900, Jive 80HV, BLS251, Scorpion 4025-1100 Trex 500, I2 FBL Head, JR3517's, Gyrobot 700, JR8900G, CC ICE75, Scorpion 3026-1400 Trex 250, Flybarless, Gyrobot 900, Innolab 201 |
08-23-2009, 08:50 PM | #49 (permalink) |
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By the way, take notice to the little dimple in the adjusting lug surface. I put small dimples on the fine pitch end (not on the coarse pitch end). This dimple gets installed facing up. That way, the control rod is shortened by turning clockwise while looking from above the heli.
I've been all worried that there wasn't a good way to tell which way they are installed and this could cause a lot of confusion and frustration not knownig which way to turn them. Adding the lugs gave me a good place to put a mark. Killed two birds with one stone. Thanks again for the suggestion Mark. |
08-24-2009, 09:22 PM | #50 (permalink) |
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BTW, has anybody noticed the lack of set screws (otherwise known as Grub Screws) in my flybar cage? Yeah baby, clamp on!
There have been no grub screws harmed in the production of IČ equipment. Not even in the main shaft lock collar or even the tail rotor hub, I hate the bloody things! |
09-08-2009, 10:38 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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I'm not so sure about that. I just finished the I2 Standard Flybared offering and it's just incredible. You should feel how glassy smooth it is. Yet tight with no play at all.
FINALLY, the precision of a high end 50 nitro in a 500 electric. Tough, but it can actually be done. J SO…will the ULTIMATE TREX 500 be WITH or WITHOUT a flybar??? OH, and sorry about the less than professional picture. It's hot off the press and I just had to post a quick shot of it. Last edited by BobOD; 09-09-2009 at 11:47 PM.. |
09-09-2009, 12:51 AM | #54 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Looks NICE! Now where is that dedicated flybarless head block conversion for us with a small bag of coins
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09-09-2009, 11:29 PM | #55 (permalink) | |
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-Align's Jiggle Grips with big ugly lever extensions. Um...and upside down. -Align's sorry excuse for a damping system. I mean come on, no wonder it either doesn't work or is wearing out all the time. It's more clever to use o-rings. Not effective either but at least there is a ready supply of them in different materials. -Are they plastic swash driver levers you're going to use? OK, I admit, that's probably fine but come on...this is "The Ultimate Bling" thread*. -Servo destructing direct linkages that only allow incremental tracking adjustments (and cause pretty bad geometry BTW). -Align's Slop-plate -Leaving room for an extra, unneeded, clamp on piece (the swash driver) so the headblock will have much less engagement with the main shaft. -All for an end result of several times more slop than my normal offering. Have I missed anything? Don't take any of this seriously, I'm just clowning around...and plugging my design of course...me BAD. Actually, I'm thinking I'll start on it next. How much do you figure would be a good amount to lower it? I have a few things to button up on the Flybared head first. Then, finally, I'll get to start on the 600 class. *Footnote: It's not just Bling! |
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09-09-2009, 11:51 PM | #56 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Bob I fully appreciate your work in this hobby, I have yet to see an I2 product in real life but they look to be of insanely good quality. However it has been proven there is more than one way to do the same thing, and both work ... Granted yours no doubt works better ... If I had the money I would definitely pay for that head, and IMO it's a good price for that piece of machinery. BUT that being said, I can't shell out that much for a rotorhead ... Hence why I (we?) am/are asking you to make little pieces of I2 goodness for us who only need bits and pieces here and there. I think an 8mm dedicated FBL head block would be a GREAT product for you to make, I know I'd buy one. Basically what I would like to see is a head block that works with stock grips (in both T500 and Protos varieties ), ties in with the swash driver, and lowers the head. Using the stock grips and hardware would cut down on cost for us, not to mention you wouldn't have to redesign what's already being made. Incorporating the head block into the swash driver (using Mikado swash driver arms) would be awesome, so we don't have to worry about setting perfect 0deg. phasing and getting the right swash driver height. HOWEVER that's up to you, a separate swash driver is not a big problem for me. To be honest I'm not exactly sure just how much you could lower the head. I'd say on the T500 you could lower it a good 1/2" or more ... perhaps make multiple holes like the RJX Flybarless Head? Just thoughts ... take it with a grain of salt ... and continue doing what you do |
09-10-2009, 12:34 AM | #57 (permalink) |
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Actually, I can appreciate it when someone likes to do it themselves and tinker. Brings great satisfaction and I'm all for it. I was just pulling your chain there.
Although every single point was 100% true of course. I'll look at incorporating the levers. Can you shoot me a pic holding a ruler across the side of that swash driver? Perhaps that'll be enough to pick up the geometry. To be frank though, if I get too involved, I wind up having to engineer the whole head and only selling one part, I never get payback so I have to be careful. I think I can bang this one out though so I'll give it a crack. |
09-10-2009, 01:26 AM | #58 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Hmm, so are you looking for the length/dimensions of the swash driver arms? Can't get a picture now, maybe tomorrow ...
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09-10-2009, 10:45 AM | #59 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
__________________
Logo 500SE, Gyrobot 900, Jive 80HV, BLS251, Scorpion 4025-1100 Trex 500, I2 FBL Head, JR3517's, Gyrobot 700, JR8900G, CC ICE75, Scorpion 3026-1400 Trex 250, Flybarless, Gyrobot 900, Innolab 201 |
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