Swift NX Model?

[xv-townboy]

Thanks for the replies..So I DO need the Nicad battery then?

On a side note..Does anyone know what the specs are on the BEC that comes with that ESC?.I never even noticed that it wasnt mentioned on the Century site

[Dennis P]

They are saying that they did not go with a seperate battery pack but instead have installed a aftermarket bec.I have not seen your speed control before in person,but in the picture it shows a external bec with it ferrite ring plugged into the speed controller.If you can find out what the rating is ,if around 5amp it will be fine with a flybar setup.I cannot see Century suppling it with there package if it is not up to snuff for you to use. Located about 13 hrs from the Washington State line.Ha Ha

[xv-townboy]

Awesome thanks for the reply.I found out that BEC thats on the included ESC is rated for up to 3A.It was suggested that i could one of these>> http://www.rcflightstore.com/product...oducts_id=2765

Im wondering if i should also grab a stepdown since i'll be using my 401/9254 combo
http://www.rcflightstore.com/product...oducts_id=1301

I just want to get everything right the first time..Hate not having the right stuff on hand if ya know what i mean..

Thanks again

[Fishjunky]

Originally Posted by xv-townboy

Awesome thanks for the reply.I found out that BEC thats on the included ESC is rated for up to 3A.It was suggested that i could one of these>> http://www.rcflightstore.com/product...oducts_id=2765

Im wondering if i should also grab a stepdown since i'll be using my 401/9254 combo
http://www.rcflightstore.com/product...oducts_id=1301

I just want to get everything right the first time..Hate not having the right stuff on hand if ya know what i mean..

Thanks again

You might be better off just getting the stepdown and a 2S LiFe pack. I'm running the pack that I linked you to. It fits nicely under the main pack area. You can run your receiver and cyclic servos off of it directly, then step down to your tail servo.

[Dennis P]

I guess XV Town it comes down to what you want and if it balances with the pack you are using.If it is tail heavy the life pack is a good option,or if it balances nice with just your lipo ect up frt the bec may be a better option.Also with the WR bec that you listed you can set the voltage you want so if your servos have the power you need at say 5.4 volts you do not need a step down for the tail servo.Just giving options ,not saying one way is better.Ask a question on here and see who is using the stock bec as it may have proven to be just fine.I think alot of the stock castle internal becs are only 3 amp also.

[ngin]

The important consideration is the CONTINUOUS current capability of the BEC. A 3A continuous rating should be enough for a light heli like the Swift with S-3151 servos if all is properly set-up with nothing binding at the end of their travel.

[xv-townboy]

Ok that gives me a couple of options for sure..Seeing that i am fairly new to flying the big electrics i may just err on the safe side and buy everything lol..Might as well have it all here..Thanks for all the replies.

[djensen623]

What battery/motor/esc setup is everyone using, or what do you all suggest? I do not want an extra battery for servo/gyro power, so esc's with bec's only please, and I am planning on using a 5s 5000 mah battery. suggestions please. THX

[djensen623]

I'm also looking for servo suggestions for cyclic. im using a GY401/Futaba 9254 for tail.

[djensen623]

Bump TTT

[MotorRotor]

Originally Posted by djensen623

I'm also looking for servo suggestions for cyclic. im using a GY401/Futaba 9254 for tail.

I have one Swift 16 with the more budget & basic analogue Futaba S3010 servos and find they work very well for training, scale & sport 3D.

I have another with the lower priced Futaba S-3151's which work very well and are more precise and resulted in more "pop" to the collective.

And on my 550SE I had installed some higher end S-9252 digitals. These of course were best. These may be a bit "over the top" for this size heli, but I wanted to make this one as precise as possible.

[Robert_K]

I've got a new NX that I managed to tip over on it's maiden take off. I'm still pretty new and forgot to add right cyclic, or at least I think that's what happened. My wife kindly bought me the applicable Ray's Authoritative series, so I'm much more confident of the setup now. Just waiting on the seesaw offsets to finish the build and rebalance the head. Anyhow, during my head rebuild I found this thread and was wondering what to change next time I need parts. I'm considering the following (as I need replacements anyhow):
1) Has anyone tried the new BeastX FBL controller? I'm looking at the number of head parts on a FBL bird compared to stock and think it might be cost effective in the long run to switch. This is based on the replacement of most of the flybar associated parts from this first crash. Fewer parts=less money to replace (to my thinking anyhow).
2) Shorter landing gear. I saw someone earlier in this thread use a Hirobo gear, but my LHS only carries Align and Thunder Tiger. Does anyone know of any direct replacements from there? Ideally I'd like to use stock holes to be lazy. Otherwise I realize that I can drill new and make about anything fit.
3) Vertical stabalizer. If I switch to shorter gear, I'm guessing a stabalizer that has a different boom mount would be in order to keep the bird level on the ground. Anyone know who might have the same diameter tail boom to use their mount and stabilizer?
4) It looks like the original Swift, 550 Carbon, and 620 canopies all fit woth a 6S 5000mah pack. Is that right? Any others? I'm just not a big fan of the stock "milk jug" canopy and will want to eventually replace it. This is definately lowest on the priority list but I need something to look at when I'm bored at work
Thanks in advance, this has been a great thread already.

[MAXHSHV]

Originally Posted by Robert_K

I've got a new NX that I managed to tip over on it's maiden take off. I'm still pretty new and forgot to add right cyclic, or at least I think that's what happened. My wife kindly bought me the applicable Ray's Authoritative series, so I'm much more confident of the setup now. Just waiting on the seesaw offsets to finish the build and rebalance the head. Anyhow, during my head rebuild I found this thread and was wondering what to change next time I need parts. I'm considering the following (as I need replacements anyhow):
1) Has anyone tried the new BeastX FBL controller? I'm looking at the number of head parts on a FBL bird compared to stock and think it might be cost effective in the long run to switch. This is based on the replacement of most of the flybar associated parts from this first crash. Fewer parts=less money to replace (to my thinking anyhow).
2) Shorter landing gear. I saw someone earlier in this thread use a Hirobo gear, but my LHS only carries Align and Thunder Tiger. Does anyone know of any direct replacements from there? Ideally I'd like to use stock holes to be lazy. Otherwise I realize that I can drill new and make about anything fit.
3) Vertical stabalizer. If I switch to shorter gear, I'm guessing a stabalizer that has a different boom mount would be in order to keep the bird level on the ground. Anyone know who might have the same diameter tail boom to use their mount and stabilizer?
4) It looks like the original Swift, 550 Carbon, and 620 canopies all fit woth a 6S 5000mah pack. Is that right? Any others? I'm just not a big fan of the stock "milk jug" canopy and will want to eventually replace it. This is definately lowest on the priority list but I need something to look at when I'm bored at work
Thanks in advance, this has been a great thread already.

the 620 canopy is the same shape , but the origanal swift and swift 550 are different and won't fit that battery.
http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=9236this one will fit, and so will this one
http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=9156

as for landing gear,if you run shorter ones you'll need to put shims under the back ones to keep the tail off the ground, if you ran a shorter tail fin your tail blades would be to close to the ground in grass not a big deal but on a harder surface you could chip your blades and throw the tail out of balance and even cause a tail failure,
as for FBL the micro beasty is a great unit especially for the money.and you are correct there is less parts to break in a crash. however you said you were pretty new,if going FBL I would find somebody to help you, the learing curve can be pretty steep.
Another optin is to go with a full metal head, they usually survive crashes much better then a plastic head.

[Robert_K]

I hadn't thought about the tail rotor blades. That's a good idea to just shim the back end up. Thanks for the info.

[hancockdw]

Hey, guys, I have a new question: are there any alternatives to the Century parts for vertical stabilizers? I like the big plastic stock one, but it's quite flexible and I've broken 2 of them (along with both tail blades each time). I have the CF one, too, but it's quite a bit shorter, barely longer than the 85mm tail blades I'm running. Club field is grass, and much more like a meadow than a golf green, so I'd like some clearance.

Has anyone found a part from another Century heli, or from Align, Thunder Tiger, etc. that will work?

Dave

[ngin]

Originally Posted by hancockdw

Hey, guys, I have a new question: are there any alternatives to the Century parts for vertical stabilizers? I like the big plastic stock one, but it's quite flexible and I've broken 2 of them (along with both tail blades each time). I have the CF one, too, but it's quite a bit shorter, barely longer than the 85mm tail blades I'm running. Club field is grass, and much more like a meadow than a golf green, so I'd like some clearance.

Has anyone found a part from another Century heli, or from Align, Thunder Tiger, etc. that will work?

Dave

For protecting the tail rotor, I found the aluminum CNE536B unit to be the best, followed by the carbon CNE536A which are much better then the other carbon CNE536. My last choice is the plastic ones that now come with the NX.

[hancockdw]

Thanks!

How much longer is the 536B than the 536A?

Dave

[MotorRotor]

They are the same length but the aluminum 536B is much stiffer.

[hancockdw]

Oh. I'd really like to have something as long as the stock plastic piece. Stores don't typically list the size of these, and when they do it's overall height, not from the bolt holes.

Dave