Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Bob O

Scott,

The pins in the tail pitch arms aren't roll pins per se. They will be a lot easier to work with. The roll pin in my kit was a super tight fit to the hole. Pliers wouldn't budge it, and besides I didn't want to mess up the pulley. And I don't have a vice. So I rigged up something and had to hit it with a full sized hammer pretty hard, nearly as hard a freakin' nail. After it was flush with the pulley I lined up a drift punch and had my father in-law whack it to get it evenly recessed with the other side. It was the first time in all my heli builds where I needed help from another person.

If I recall, the 6HV used a roll pin to hold the tail pulley. It was nowhere near the hassle as this one. In either case, it's done and I can proceed with the build.

Okay.. Let's just call them PITA pins. The tail pulley thing I called a spring pin. It sounds like a lot of folks are playing whack a hole!

The pins on mine were kind of easy once I figured out how to hold the pin in a pair of pliers then tap the pliers to just get the pin started. Holding the PITA pins with fingers was hopeless for me.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

I suppose not being able to imagine not having a bench vice or Arbor press is akin to me not being able to imagine not having a Mesa Boogie Mk IV or my JP6 BFR...

Scott

[Luigi_tuga]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

I suppose not being able to imagine not having a bench vice or Arbor press is akin to me not being able to imagine not having a Mesa Boogie Mk IV or my JP6 BFR...

Scott

Considering the prices, it's much worse not to have a simple vise

[OICU812]

I have a vice, punches etc... Points being missed here, its a stupid way of doing it period. This is 2012, use damn setscrews and throw away the crap pins, that's my opinion, my tr hub Definetely took a beating and will work but it is not pretty at all lol.

[BaconRaygun]

I concur; my hub is now a little warped, though cosmetically not mangled since my vice has smooth clamping surfaces.

I like the set-screw idea. Indent the shaft in the same way as is done on the end where the tail-blade hub is attached (nice touch BTW, much better than the dreaded flat spot) and maybe even use a Delrin or Aluminum pulley.

I honestly thought I would never again see another rolled pin since I quit RC cars.

EDIT: BTW, Scott, lovely thread you got here man.

[Dave Ketelhut]

the tail shafts and pulleys will be assembled at the factory for now on in both the kits and for replacement parts

[dunkonu23]

Hey guys, guess what? I got my wife sick. So...I need to take care of her. I wish I could post more tonight, but I'm needed--and it's a good feeling to know that.

With that in mind, I have only a few steps today.



Bag 17 has the electronics tray and support.



Please note: Installation of the tray is directional: One side of the tray has countersunk drilled holes. The screws are countersunk as well. This was likely done to keep a flat surface. Do not over tighten the screws--remember, the hole is countersunk! Also, before you install this in your helicopter, be sure to lightly sand the edges using wet wet/dry sandpaper. If you don't want use wet, make sure you use a mask!



The top side of the electronics tray.



The underside of the electronics tray.



Bag 18 19 Contains bearings and the antirotation/main bearing mount.



Well need these later.



I chose MKS DS92A+ servos. I've been told they're essentially a plastic cased DS95, so I'm happy with my choice. Also shown bag 20.



Bag 20 contains the servo mount and associated hardware. If your servos have four mounting holes you'll want to use the plastic servo nuts. Note that they come in two sizes: 7 and 6mm wide. The bag also contains servo spacers. If you're using single hole servos you'll use the screws in bag 20, but....



You'll need the nylock nuts found in an unmarked bag.



There are plenty of nuts for this step. I only needed four.



I used a servo spacer on the outside of the servo. If I need it on the inside, I'll move it later.



I used a 4mm wrench to hold the nylock nut while I tightened the 1.5mm screw.



This is the completed aileron and pitch servo installation. I always try to get the servos rotating in the same plane. For this installation, I kept the screws barely tight and then pushed down on the servo in the mount while tightening the upper screw. It looks like they'll rotate in the same plane here.

My apologies again, folks. We'll get this kit done! I promise!

Scott

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

I used a servo spacer on the outside of the servo. If I need it on the inside, I'll move it later.

I can confirm this is OK ... just don't be like me and accidentally mount the servos on the wrong side of the mount or they won't clear the elevator servo! LOL!

[Ah Clem]

I have pressed pins in on the old Knights, and the 7HV with both an arbor press and a vice.

It is very easy to do with the right tools.

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Jeff_Barrett

I can confirm this is OK ... just don't be like me and accidentally mount the servos on the wrong side of the mount or they won't clear the elevator servo! LOL!

LOL... I know what you mean. I make mistakes all the time. Like... uh.. trailing edge...

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Ah Clem

I have pressed pins in on the old Knights, and the 7HV with both an arbor press and a vice.

It is very easy to do with the right tools.

LOL! I found it easy to improvise with the wrong tools!

Scott

[Audball]

FWIW, on servos with just one hole on each side, you can still use the exact hardware shown in step 20. Simply use the center hole in the CF spacer, a single screw, and either one of the holes in the plastic servo nut. Works great (and is exactly what you do on the Rave 450, for example).

[dunkonu23]

Yep, you sure can. I just wanted to follow the manual. I will be skipping putting the arms on the servos until I set up the FBL unit.

Scott

[Gawl]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

Yep, you sure can. I just wanted to follow the manual. I will be skipping putting the arms on the servos until I set up the FBL unit.

Scott

Scott, center your elevator servo and put the arm on first with the delrin link if you can. Otherwise it's a pita unless you remove the motor assembly again.

[Jason O'Connell]

Originally Posted by Gawl

Scott, center your elevator servo and put the arm on first with the delrin link if you can. Otherwise it's a pita unless you remove the motor assembly again.

+1 on that

had to remove the motor assy here

[Luvmyhelis]

I have to say, as a fellow custom fabricator and builder. This thread and workmanship is outstanding! Compass picked the right guy to do this! And I am bloody hard to impress. Nicely done so far.

One thing I did pick out. If lots of guys are splitting the links on the grip to swash links. Quick UK makes a delrin version I have used on my own custom fabbed heads that is bulletproof. I just drill and tap them out to the right thread and install them. Never had one go bad yet. And the delrin stays slippery, and can handle lots of abuse before stretching out and getting sloppy. Just an option.

I do have one question? How smooth and tight is the swash so far guys? Mine wont hit till later this week. Maybe early next. I plan on custom fabbing a few upgrades on mine right off the start though.

[BaconRaygun]

+1 on the Quick UK links, lucky I had some laying around.

[Stevemech]

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

I have to say, as a fellow custom fabricator and builder. This thread and workmanship is outstanding! Compass picked the right guy to do this! And I am bloody hard to impress. Nicely done so far.

One thing I did pick out. If lots of guys are splitting the links on the grip to swash links. Quick UK makes a delrin version I have used on my own custom fabbed heads that is bulletproof. I just drill and tap them out to the right thread and install them. Never had one go bad yet. And the delrin stays slippery, and can handle lots of abuse before stretching out and getting sloppy. Just an option.

I do have one question? How smooth and tight is the swash so far guys? Mine wont hit till later this week. Maybe early next. I plan on custom fabbing a few upgrades on mine right off the start though.

Let me no if you come up with a better tail slider assembly as I would be interested!
Steve

[Luvmyhelis]

Originally Posted by Stevemech

Let me no if you come up with a better tail slider assembly as I would be interested!
Steve

Been up all night sketching out a design and sourcing bearings and parts to pull it off. Should be interesting. I am trying to do this so no one has to custom cnc out any parts. Off the shelf stuff that can be mildly modded by anyone with some talent. I think most of us fit that mold here? This is an area where someone like KDE could come out and make a killing. In fact, one of their align upgrade kits isn't too far off.

I am also building a list of links where we can all buy ceramics throughout, but I am including thicker flanged versions. The thicker bearings will support the shafts more securely with less play and last much much longer. Especially on the tail shaft! Not only due to the bearings themselves but the wider races and tighter tolerances.

I want mine to come out fully modded/upgraded for its first flight. Jeff B. and I can compare Sk720 vibe logs since his will be an expertly built stock version. My last couple helis were running so vibe low the Sk720 wouldn't engage into flight mode. crazy. This heli has a far far better design to start with than those did. And Jeffs numbers will give me a really accurate baseline to compare with. I also have a new skid design using CF and CF tubes for the lower skids. The fact the factory sets are just clamped in there aren't building much confidence in me right now. Plus all my flights are on grass. So I want to spread out the contact patch just a little more.

[syn90]

Do you guys happen to have a part number for those delrin quick uk links that you are referring to?