HW HV startup...

[K2Freak]

Hi,

Kinda new to HW, but I have a "brand new new used" one in a Trex 700E using VBar gov and I really like the performance so far. When I can get it to start, that is.

1. What is it supposed to do if I plug it into the battery with the spark eliminator bypassed - i.e. the big wires already plugged in. Mine sits there silently and does nothing.

2. Being a long time Castle "embrace the spark" user, I inadvertently tried to spool it up with the big wire unplugged the other day, and released a little bit of magic smoke from the shrinkwrap around the resistor. The resistor still appears to pass current, as the ESC still initialized about 3/4 of the time (as indicated by proper tones). When it doesn't it gives me one little beep. Of the 3/4 times it gives proper tones, it will actually spin the rotor maybe half the time. I tried 4 times today at the field, and gave up. Of course at home without blades it worked 2/2 times.

Anyone know what's going on here? It would be very odd (to me) if the resistor was REQUIRED for it to start, but again, kinda new to HW.

I'd like to know if I bought a screwed unit, if I screwed it, or if there is some other option.

And is there a US service point available for these things?

Thanks a bunch, Scott

[BlakeMcBrayer]

Smoking the little wire is not too big of a problem. I cut mine off and bypassed it all together. This way I could not do what you did and just deal with the spark. In short, it's not required.

It is possible that your problem may not be the HW, but a V-Bar set up issue. Are you trying to use the V-Bar governor and a phase sensor? Have you watched Mr. Mels V-Bar and governor set up vids?

What happens if you power the system up with the throttle trim all of the way down? Are you powering it up with throttle hold engaged? I'm thinking that your throttle travel is not quite right and it's not low enough to arm the ESC every time.

One way to tell if it's the HW or V-Bar set up is to use a standard receiver bound to your Tx. Plug the ESC to the test Rx. I'd set up a new model and bind it to the new model for testing. Don't forget to reset the throttle travel setting in the HW before you test.

[K2Freak]

Thanks for the reply, Blake.

Not very likely a VBar problem IMO. I DID have to go to a lot of hassle to make that work right, but this is a setup that has worked for at least 10 flights prior to today. It was a little intermittent in starting but not bad until today. Even frying the resistor was 3 flying days ago.

When the gov causes issues, I THINK it manifests by not initializing. I had to set the low end several times to get it right, and when it wasn't low enough, it went into constant beep mode. Is there another failure scenario related to VBar?

The failure that I think I'm troubleshooting is 1) when I plug the big wire in and then connect the batteries it does nothing at all. 2) Using spark elim, it gives proper tones, and then sometimes won't actually start the rotor. It did this 4 times in a row today at the field so I gave up thinking it was shot, but I can't repro tonight. It fires up each time now. Unless I plug in the big wire! 8^)

Thanks!

PS - not a bad solder joint. Also, I just switched my birds to vbar over the last month, so there is lots for me to learn there.

[BlakeMcBrayer]

Are you using a bec or a Rx pack?

If it's a bec, it could be an issue of when the bec powers up compared to when main pack is connected. If it's a bec, try a Rx pack of some sort. Plug the pack into the V-Bar first and let it initialize (single swash pump), then plug in the main pack and see if it's any better.

You could also find a way to get power to the bec first, then plugging up the main pack to the ESC.

[K2Freak]

I use BEC & 2 battery plugs. I fire up radio first and then Escape after fbl inits. I think I have a flaky esc.

[BlakeMcBrayer]

Yea, it's starting to sound like it's flaky. I still think I'd try a different receiver with an 4.8 or 6.0 volt battery. Just in case there is an issue with your V-Bar throttle output or Sat Rx (if you are Spektrum).

Which throttle wire are you using from the HW, the long one or short one? You should be using the long one. The short one is to be used with the programming box.

The only other thing I can come up with is a possible ground issue. Do you have a jumper between the bec negative output and the main battery pack negative? If not, give that a try as well.

[K2Freak]

FYI - I swapped in another HW 120HV (of the same software revision - 105) and it worked perfectly. Everyting that I expected worked, none of the goofiness.

Guy that I purchased it from is a class act and bought it back. Nice that there are still folks with integrity out there. (although he may also have thought that I am an idiot and didn't know how to work the thing!) 8^)

Anyway, this one was a goofed up ESC.