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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 06-13-2007, 10:53 PM   #21
helis101
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Mercuriell
I cant get your videos to work this message comes up (Cannot make directory email systems adminsitrator)EDIT:Its working now
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:55 AM   #22
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Burnt out the clutch lining on the 600N so put together a video on relining the clutch - not gonna win me an Oscar but if you never tried this might give some idea of what to expect. No fault of the 600N - fired up the wrong model on the Tx which threw the governor settings out - had to hang onto the rotor disk at about 1/2 throttle till I ripped the fuel line off

You need to take out the self tappers each side into the fan housing and the video takes it from there. I think the fan must flex significantly during flight as it is pretty scored and the base of the GV-1 sensor was damaged (fixed with epoxy)

Clutch relining - 23MB
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:57 AM   #23
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yeah cooooooll that was just what i was looking for !! merci beaucoup mon ami !
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:13 AM   #24
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After another clutch burnout (no one's fault 'cept moi ) I thought I'd video erniefritz' method of clutch removal from the top ! Nice one Ernie

Clutch removal from the top - 16MB
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Old 06-29-2007, 04:50 AM   #25
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Question : once you have loosen the screw and every thing is done, do you put loctite before tighten them back ?
personally I put blue loctite on every screw, even self taping screws.
I've replaced my liner, but I did it without removing the clutch bell housing.
just unmounted the motor, and placed the heli upside down on my knees.
this is for me the simple way
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9451 on cyclic - Hatori muffler - 2 in 1 reg -Multigov
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Old 06-29-2007, 04:59 AM   #26
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Yes put Loctite on all metal to metal threads - after cleaning oil off if necessary. For load bearing self tappers into plastic I would use CA as there is rumour Loctite rots plastic though haven't seen it myself. For non-load bearing eg fan shrouding I'm not convinced any locking compund is necessary.
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Old 06-29-2007, 05:05 AM   #27
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my local shop told me that green loctite rots plastic, but blue does not. they put blue loctite everywhere.
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Hacker A20-6XL motor - Hs65MG's - ESC 35X - GY401 - Gorrilla gear & tail paddles
-------------------------------
T-rex 600N - OS 50hyper - GY401 and s9254
9451 on cyclic - Hatori muffler - 2 in 1 reg -Multigov
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:24 PM   #28
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Thanks for taking time out in creating these very informative vids, they are of great help to me and I'm sure other will agree with me....

Keep up the good work!

Thanks again John.

Robert
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:49 PM   #29
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These videos are great Mercuriell. Thanks for sharing.
I'm new to this forum, and one reason I signed up was to get access to the build videos of the 600N.
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Old 07-13-2007, 06:58 PM   #30
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Thanks for the vids John!

And, what is an External BEC Glow Driver RCE-B6X used for?
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Old 07-13-2007, 08:12 PM   #31
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Its a 2 in one step down regulator - 7.4V in from a 2S lipo and 5.9V out for the radio electrics and 1.5V out for the glowplug when starting the engine - saves having to lug around an extra power source for the glowplus together with adaptor leads etc - it works well and saves stuffing around
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Old 07-13-2007, 08:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercuriell
Its a 2 in one step down regulator - 7.4V in from a 2S lipo and 5.9V out for the radio electrics and 1.5V out for the glowplug when starting the engine - saves having to lug around an extra power source for the glowplus together with adaptor leads etc - it works well and saves stuffing around
Does this replace a glow starter?
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:13 PM   #33
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NO! you still want the step down to 5.2 for the tail servo! Tail servos on a 401 (9253) or the 611 (9256) need the lower voltage for reliability and longivity....

Eddie... welcome to HF! About time you started looking for answers at the place that gives the best answers

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Old 07-14-2007, 12:55 AM   #34
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Hahahaha, glad to be here Bob and thanks for the warm welcome!
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Old 07-14-2007, 07:18 AM   #35
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Quote:
Does this replace a glow starter?
Yes - works very well and doesn't seem to draw much from the lipo to my surprise. Still carry a glow starter as back up though
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Old 07-14-2007, 06:31 PM   #36
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Cool, thanks mate.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:11 PM   #37
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Redone the link page and added in beginners tail & gyro setup and also covered crash repair and rebuild rotor assembly - instaallation of metal grips and new feathering shaft included in the latter.
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Old 12-02-2007, 06:00 PM   #38
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Default .50 Hyper repair

Hey Mercuriell, I don't know if this would be the right place for it but I'm looking for a do and don't on taking apart and cleaning out an OS .50 Hyper. I have never taken one apart and don't want to screw it up any more than I already have. I am still breaking it in and took it out to a site that had just been graded, and it kicked up a huge cloud of red dirt and now I can get the Hyper to turn over. Am I truly buggered or will cleaning it out do any good? Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:40 PM   #39
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Wayne Brown has written a how-to on OS strip down and bearing change http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=11277 I would think that a break down and clean out would be likely to fix your motor and it's not too hard as long as you're careful
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Old 12-07-2007, 10:16 AM   #40
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Default Build & repair videos 600 Nitro & E - by Mercuriell

Thanks, I'll check it out. Is it normal to feel resistance when turning the piston over? Is there a rule of thumb on what to look for?
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