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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 09-14-2016, 12:34 AM   #1
mugen 1
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Default O.S. .50 Hyper bearings

Hey Guys, my O.S. 50 hyper is starting to run hot for no reason, after 5 !/2 gallons,so I'm tearing it down and replacing the bearings. I ordered a set of stainless steel bearing from Boca Bearing, but when they arrived both bearings were shielded on both sides. I called Boca and they said I could remove the shielding,or keep them on. What would you guys do?
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:26 AM   #2
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Both shields off for the rear. Wash it out to get rid of the grease.

Some remove the inner shield from the front, others leave it on. I have not seen anything conclusive for this
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:29 AM   #3
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I ordered a stainless rear bearing with a metal separator, but then read that better go with plastic separator. Are Boca ones w/plastic separator or metal?
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Old 09-14-2016, 12:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignatjev View Post
I ordered a stainless rear bearing with a metal separator, but then read that better go with plastic separator. Are Boca ones w/plastic separator or metal?
Both are have metal shields, but are not sealed, so lube may pass through them.
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:03 AM   #5
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So far so good with this rear bearing, it has a metal retainer, dismounted shields from both sides:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1905448760...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

BTW, when I know I`m gonna take a break for some time from flying my nitro, I do this maintenance as by Nick Maxwell:
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Last edited by Ignatjev; 09-22-2016 at 08:20 AM..
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:57 AM   #6
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Over the years I haven't read of anyone getting better service from stainless over any other bearing type.

I just get a generic 6902 with a plastic retainer and treat it as a consumable.

I will change the bearings at a ratio of 4 to 1, change the front as I change the back for a fourth time.

I believe boca specialise in rc engines so if you ordered a 6902 and not a 6902-2xx I would want to know why they didn't supply what you asked for. Similarly the front bearing is available with the shield on one side only. I have seen bearings damaged removing shields and as the correct configuration bearings can be supplied you should get what you can use immediately.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:08 PM   #7
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I decided to install both bearings with the metal shields on for a few reasons.
1. lube can pass through the metal shields.
2. the rear bearing shields are pressed on, so I did not want to damage the
bearings by punching a hole in the shield to remove it.
3. the bearings were designed with the shields, and could keep debris out of the engine if the cage fails? (just being positive about it)

Anyway, 31/2 tanks in and the engine runs like new and not running hot any more, which kinda makes you think. what's up with O.S. bearings? I always ran the engine dry at the end of the day.
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:43 AM   #8
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Interesting, please post the progress.

Leaving the shields on the rear bearing doesn't seem to be common practice, so an opposing experience will be good to know.
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Old 09-30-2016, 06:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Anyway, 31/2 tanks in and the engine runs like new and not running hot any more, which kinda makes you think. what's up with O.S. bearings?
Some years ago at my club we had a very poor run on bearings. Some lasted maybe 1 gallon only. It didn't matter who the bearing manufacturer was. This has been talked about many times and no one really knows for definite what goes on.

I have been using Rapicon fuel and I get very good service from the bearings now.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:44 PM   #10
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I run an air filter on my engine, so I expected my bearings to last longer than 51/2 gallons. One gallon per bearing is outrageous, there must have been a lot of sand and dust at your field. I run CoolPower heli fuel, which is supposed to have a rust inhibitor (after run oil) in it, still my bearings rusted anyway although I always ran my engine dry.
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:56 PM   #11
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Yep, no rhyme or reason why bearings just go bad no matter what we try and do to stop it.

Once you have the method sorted it isn't a very long job.

When I was running an OS 50 in a hirobo Sceadu I could be ready to re-install the engine in 20 minutes from beginning to end. It takes a bit longer with the T-rex as the skids have to come off first.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:30 PM   #12
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I think the next time I change bearings I'll go ceramic. Have you tried them?
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Old 10-04-2016, 03:09 AM   #13
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If it would solve the problem, everybody would be using ceramic bearings. Instead I think better try a quality Japan bearings, I`m going to try KOYO 69022RS and do maintenance with ATF after flights.
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:41 PM   #14
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Even better -

http://www.magnumfuels.com/store/bearings.php

I am just breaking in my new motor with the center-glide bushing, But the lifetime warranty sounds good enough to give it a try...
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Old 10-05-2016, 03:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen 1 View Post
I think the next time I change bearings I'll go ceramic. Have you tried them?
You won't be the first and no doubt you won't be the last but please after you have fitted the ceramics come back and tell us how it went.

The ceramic balls can break and go through the engine with spectacular results.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy View Post
You won't be the first and no doubt you won't be the last but please after you have fitted the ceramics come back and tell us how it went.

The ceramic balls can break and go through the engine with spectacular results.
I raced off road 1/8 scale nitro buggies for many years. I ran the premium
engine of that class, the Nova Rossi .21 engine. Nova Rossi's top of the line engines all come with ceramic main bearings and run up to 40,000 rpm. One time I ran a Nova Rossi engine, thirteen gallons on the same ceramic bearing, the engine finally died of a connecting rod bushing failure, the main ceramic bearing was still good, it never had any rust issues.
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dowquest View Post
Even better -

http://www.magnumfuels.com/store/bearings.php

I am just breaking in my new motor with the center-glide bushing, But the lifetime warranty sounds good enough to give it a try...
+1 on the center glides, super quite and smooth when they idle. I have them in a 105, 55 and a 50. In terms of standard ball bearings, I had good luck with the stainless steel type. Had a 55 with about 300 flights over a 4 year period. For that heli it sat around a lot so I was happy with how long the stainless steel bearing lasted.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:24 PM   #18
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http://www.magnumfuels.com/store/bearings.php

Motor is broken in, runs like a champ, makes me wonder why guys still use rear bearings at all.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:52 PM   #19
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Are you talking about plain bearings (like the ones on a 1:1 car crankshaft)?
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:33 PM   #20
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If your question was for me, I'm referring to all rear bearings except those with a lifetime warranty.
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