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Mikado Logo 800 Xxtreme Mikado Logo 800 Xxtreme Helicopters Discussion |
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08-07-2014, 11:02 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Main gear wobble
I am dangerously close to having this 800 built and in the air. It is coming along AWSOME and all the guys at the field can't wait to see it in the are, me either.
I hoped I could get your input on a slight main gear wobble issue it has. It wobbles just a little bit but I don't like the sound it makes when I spin it up on the bench. Also, I read a post about gear mesh and believe I have it right but it quickly looses mesh as the gear rotates around to the other side. I thought I was thorough in tightening the owb screws and getting it squared up. Maybe there's a better process in dialing in the main gears? Oh, how close is acceptable for the top rear of the main gear and the bottom front of the tail box belt gear
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08-07-2014, 11:04 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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08-07-2014, 01:16 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Hi @mark it looks like something is not right as the main bearing seems too close to the rear. I took pic of mine to show what it looks like and check the bevel gear in gearbox in my pic as it almost lines up with main gear.
Do you have your main bearing blocks the right way around as that is the only thing in my mind that could allow your main shaft to shift to the rear. Mine has no wobble and i mean no wobble when it turns. In fact i was surprised at how Mikado got it so level with plastic. Hope you find the problem soon as this thing is amazing to fly |
08-07-2014, 02:31 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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I did check the main bearing blocks against the pictures in the back of the manual just to make sure they were right. I also used the same specified shims as in the manual. Looking at your picture it seem as though yours also has a vary small space between the two gears. So I guess that's normal.
My issue at this point is too get the main gear to spin dead level. I have other Helis that have a little up and down wobble from the main gear and I can usually mess with it enough to get it spinning pretty flat. But with this herringbone tooth set up it would seem critical for the gear to spin dead level. I hate to but, I may need to tear back into it and redo the OWB screws. I'm ready to put the tail on and my packs are coming tomorrow😁
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08-07-2014, 03:21 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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@Mark
Sorry looks like in your picture the main gear is shifted quite a bit to rear compared to mine but probably just the angle. As for the wobble lets think about it for a second...even if the main shaft is skew then the whole gear would be skew but still rotate without wobble i doubt this is the case but these are just thoughts. Next thing would be the main gear connection to the shaft ie the one way bearing. Are you sure the fitting is properly seated inside the main gear? If you do remove it the whilst the main gear is on the shaft try and mount the shaft in a clamp or something similar and turn the main gear so it spins slowly. Hold the tip of a pen or screwdriver against the gear edge again in a clamp or something so it does not move and if the problem is in those parts you will clearly see the gear movinc closer and further away from the pen as you turn it around the shaft. I have seen them use this method on a car rim to find out where it is buckled. Hope this makes sense and damn the effort Getting my 7s lipos this weekend as well wooohoooo |
08-07-2014, 08:33 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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There was an issue with the one way hubs a bit large a while ago.
If the maingear has to be 'pulled' onto the hub with the bolts the hub is to large and will distort the maingear. Mine was on the second shipment to NA and it had the hub issue. I ended up sanding the diameter of the hub down a bit ( not much ) and it fit perfect and maingear was straight. To test , take all the bolts out of the maingear ( yes , pull it back out ) and without the bolts into the hub the maingear should spin on hub be hand. Not sloppy by any means but a nice precise fit that's not binding on hub Over 200 flights later -- 0 issues Martin Side note : If this is a new old stock kit , what is the number written on the cap of the esc ? Version '25' needs to be updated where version '26' was better but the latest is '27' I'm referring to the stock YGE that comes with kit
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08-07-2014, 08:42 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Ok. Thanks guys. I just got it tore back down so I'll be looking at both suggestions. I'm thinking it will be an issue with the one way bearing seating. I only say that because every other Heli I've had I needed to finagle the gear, screws and bearing housing to some degree to get it to spin true.
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08-07-2014, 09:21 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Ok. The gear spins pretty freely on the bearing housing. I took the screws out and spun the gear one hole over and put them back. I put the gear back in the Heli on the shaft and spun it using the bottom of the tail gear as a reference point till it seemed to spin true. I think I have it better now but the test will be to spin it up under power on the bench and have it sound smooth.
I bought the kit only and got the electronics separately. I got the yge 160 from Pete at elektrorc and he sent it out to be modded for 16s. I didn't see a 25, 26 or 27 on the caps. I'm not using vbar either, I'm running an Ikon.
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08-07-2014, 11:48 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Mark, another thing to consider is the shims used to align the gears, vertically, with the shaft bearings.
It's been my experience that the manual's shimming is a good starting point....but I've had to adjust the thickness of shims to get things just so. I don't like to see "large" gaps between a shim and the outer bearing race that it rides on. So I also get some extra .5mm and .2mm shims, used as needed. And, then pay carefull attention, to the pinion, so that that "herringbone" is perfectly aligned. The herringbone pinion/gear mesh will try to align...and could cause such wobbling. FWIW |
08-08-2014, 04:14 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Yes. I also added a .5 shim which seemed to be just enough to take the verticle play out of the main shaft.
I'm starting to think maybe I got a bad gear that's warped and out of round. I actually have two issues which are probably related: 1) The gear wobbles because it is warped or not sitting square on the OWB housing. I was able to get it spinning flatter with less wobble but I still don't like how it sounds when spun up on the bench. 2) I believe the gear is out of round because when I set the proper mesh and turn the motor by hand the mesh changes with each 1/2" turn of the gear. It goes from almost no backlash to way more than I think is correct. I'm going to call or email Mikado tomorrow to see what they say about it.
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08-08-2014, 08:13 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Hi @mark
Some good advice provided from the other guys. I seriously doubt the main shaft can move and i seriously doubt the motor and pinion can move and the only things between them are the one way bearing and main gear so my assumption would be that the chances of the one way bearing being off is less than the main gear being off. I think your main gear might be deformed so if you lay it flat on a glass surface does it still wobble? As for the gear mesh changing that indicates slightly oval instead of perfectly round gear. I vote you contact mikado they are great and if there is problem with gear i am sure they will help asap. Man it sucks being so close yet so far. Be glad your in the states otherwise shipping would set you back good week or so. Cheers |
08-08-2014, 10:43 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Yes you are absolutely right. We've both com to the same conclusion. I have not yet laid the on a flat glass yet but will be doing that when I get home today. Either way the gear is bad. I have emailed Mikado this morning but not yet heard back from them.
I'm going to continue and completely build out the rest of the Heli and wait for a new main gear to show up. The best scenario is mikado sends me out one ASAP.
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08-14-2014, 01:10 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Hi @Mark
Have you managed to find the problem yet. I would love to know what you came up with. Cheers |
08-14-2014, 08:00 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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No I had a heck of a time messing with that gear. It's just not straight. I laid it on a flat piece of glass to confirm that.
I did get it to spin flat enough to where I'm comfortable flying it. To do that I had tighten and loosen the OWB screws in different combinations till spun flat. It was like trueing spokes on a bicycle wheel. Very frustrating. I've got a new gear and bearing on the way when mikado over done at ircha. So it's just sitting finished now. Waiting for an esc and a maiden
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09-04-2014, 02:06 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Hi Mark
Have you maidened yet??? So interested in hearing because mine is now on 14s and loving it. Still doing my relaxed albeit shaking circuits...this thing is a demon...and absolutely intoxicated everytime it takes off. What happened with the gear? |
09-04-2014, 06:34 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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I have not. Unfortunately it has been sitting completely finished for over 3 weeks. I have no esc. After theYGE 160hv blew up on the bench I paid 55.00 for 3-5 day shipping to Germany. Well YGE went on vacation for a couple weeks and got back on the 1st. As of todaFree AT&T Msg: Your bill is now past due. To make a payment now, reply 1 and press send. To schedule a payment for a later date, reply 2 and press send. We will send additional instructions after your reply is received.y, 24 days later YGE still does not have my blown up esc and I do not know where it is.
Frustrating does not explain. Anyway. I'm very glad your new build is in the air problem free and your having a blast with it. It gives me hope, and something to look forward to.
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09-05-2014, 12:43 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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Hi Mark
That must be absolute hell Hopefully they sort it out asap so you can get it in the air!!! |
09-05-2014, 12:56 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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I'd bet it stuck in german customs.
I was told to send in my esc with a courier (fedex/ups/ etc ) but opted for the post office as it was winter and I knew german customs would be holding it for a while. Sad to say it took close to 30 days to get thru customs , hard to believe that and customs service is worse than into Canada .. lol Did you go thru Mikado to send into YGE ? They messed up my repair quite bad. I sent in 2 esc's for repair , Mikado moved then lost them, found them again and sent to YGE , they moved and lost them , after finding them they sent them to readyheli. Back to Germany , then finally back to me. Opened up package and I have a repaired 800 esc without tabs and someone else's cremated 700 esc. I wrote a polite letter to Mikado (jorg) stating how this played out with the understanding that both shops had moved. He said sorry for the mixup and made it right for me. Very happy. Luckily this was my winter project. Not trying to scare you. I will note that before I broke the tabs off the 800 esc in a crash I sent it in for a software update. After it got thru customs (took a while here also) it was quick to get flashed and back in my hands. Martin
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09-05-2014, 03:32 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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Wow. That is quite a horror story. It does give me a glimmer of hope though. I'm not at 30 days yet so it could still be in customs. That could mean it can show up at YGE any time. Then YGE can see they sent me an exploding speed controller and turn right around and send me brand new one, (without the flame thrower option). Well. I'll try optimism just a little longer, hey ya never know.
I really wanted to go with the kosmic but the price tag is just obsene to me. Maybe they don't blow up? Oh, no I did not go through mikado. I got the kit only and built it up from there.
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09-05-2014, 08:47 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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Being a huge kontroincs fan , i still like the YGE
I have the OEM Mikado units on mine , work well built in rpm , just plain work. I also have a few kosmic's here and have been contemplating putting them in but they would need more wiring to work with vcontrol. I did do a few things different. Mounting , what were they thinking mounting off the mainboard ? I run the 800esc's that have the heatsinks , put some stand off posts off the heatsink for mounting ESC/RPM wires , these guys are routed over some soldered pins from the daughter board. You need to protect them from chaffing thru the servo leads. it will ruin esc if they short. I put some fuel tubing on wires then tucked them back up by the caps and hotglued the both to keep them from moving. search out my handle name for threads and pics Martin
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