V911 Issues

[boomer539]

Your instructions were perfect and it's back up flying like it was a week ago! Thank you! For future reference, do you have any tips on soldering wires as small as that? They didn't seem to heat up very much and took a lot of attempts

[Tecpro]

Some small wires are coated in a clear plastic coating or some times colored. that is hard to get off and what you have to do is Gently scrape the tips of the wire with a pocket knife. Now, I mean gently; too hard and you actually will cut the wire. in these cases if the wire isn't scraped on at least one side it takes a little to burn the coating back a little. I always tin my wires before soldering them together. This insures a more stable joint when soldered. And if the wires are too small to handle easily, I use a set of helping hands. vice base with alligator clips on the end of holder arms. Place the 2 wires, One from each end in the clamps and bring the tips together. Then solder and heat shrink.

[Kwekwe]

Finally figured out a decent setup for my v911 fleet to be controlled by my Flysky CT6B. $2 for the Digital Radio app well worth it and I think they fly much more stable with the $32 CT6B radio.

If anyone wants to see my v911.cfg file I'll probably attach to a MSG here later if that's possible. And now back to building my EXI 450 SE

[Kwekwe]

BTW Saw my Buddy's Blade MSRX Flybarless and drooled....and since I've 4 v911's I was optimistic and removed the flybar on one and the 2 links from it.Twitchy as hell but flyable , the only the only trouble is the "center" link on the Rotors really won't stay on sooooooooo

New idea, clip the Flybar close to the ball joints.
Buddy is picking up his Blade 120 SR so asked him to grab me a Flybar at the hobby shop by his house just in case. and yes after seeing my friends MSRX I HAD to have one

Going SFBL on a v911 would be nice tho, doubtful it behave as nice as the MSRX but even if I totally destroy it , another is a scant $25 including S&H away via yallstore on Ebay and they fairly local since just across water in Jersey. Sure Banggood.com is cheaper but longer wait to restore the fleet.

[Tecpro]

Beings you have gone this far, why not level up the Flybar then while it is level, glue the middle connector bar on the washout base to the wing behind the ball for the link to the flybar on both sides of the wing. Then remove the flybar and linkage. This will act just like the ball is on the wings and the linkages ffrom the swashplate is controlling the wing in a solid fashion. You can buy more of the washout linkage and other linkages and put on a spare set of blades to reverse this app. I do have jpgs of this area if you need visual aid and I can set it up to show what I mean. just let me know! You might try adding a little weight to the tips of the blades while going barless, and balancing the blades as you go!

[Kwekwe]

Ooooh nice idear! I've cut the Flybar off by eye , so probably get some shake from out of balance. Mad Scientist Mode initialized :-)

Will Upload a Pic in a wee bit

[Kwekwe]

Likes to DIVE nose down into ground, will monkey with weight distribution possibly Later. Flys BARELY.

Attached find Pic of the Clipped Flybar v911 and also a zip file containing my cfg file for use with Flysky CT6B Radio for use with the v911

[Tecpro]

Maybe move the balancing weight closer in to the main shaft. Try 1" out from the main shaft. I'm just guessing! I leave mine with the flybar on, but I do try other Mods. I have 2 sets of Alum Swash plates, Rotor Heads, and main shaft and hardware. Not Really fond of them.

[Kwekwe]

Any benefit to those CNC awash plates etc other than cosmetics?

[Tecpro]

Only Benie that I see is looks and possibly harder to break! 1 set of mine can be had!

[Kwekwe]

Ran home to Momma so to speak and threw Flybar back on, latest buggery involves radio, added some Throttle to forward momentum on v911 in the Flysky's Mix setup adding 36 points of Channel 3 Throttle to the Forward Right Stick of Channel 2. Weird hearing the wee beastie ramp up from the RIGHT stick but seems to help with keeping Altitude up without mucking with the Left stick

Probably SHOULD do the same for backwards flights

Attached is Pic of most of my Heli's, there's a Blade MSRX and a Walkera Mini CP on there way as well.

[Tecpro]

Well, I just changed out my Swash plate, main shaft and Rotor Head to the CNC silver set. Still flies but had to do some minor adjustments to the Secretary Rods. Had to pull them both down a few microns. I still like the Idea of my Mod to the anti-rotation guide on the backside of the MainShaft.. it Actually really helps ME more than adjusting the rod up to make it push to the right on take off. And I just take off a little slower and I don't get that Left Jump and don't have to compensate with the control stick. No drifting on Hover, and smother reactions to controls.. But that is just My Preference. It's really up to the Pilot as to how he wants to handle the hard left on take off. Both Appear to be WORKING fixes! I have done both and both seem to work equally well! My third bird, I didn't modify anything. Just leveled the swash plate and I just took it slower and easier on take off going easier on the throttle and that worked pretty well also! If you look at your landing skids you will notice that on the left side of the bird they added two little feet to that skid. They Knew that there was a left pull on take off and that was their answer to that problem. They thought that a little more lean to the right would fix it, But it Didn't work. Problem still there!

Any one else come up with another solution that worked for them, We'd all like to hear about it.
Kwekwe, going flybarless didn't work? I was just thinking about trying it but I was going to go another route. I was thinking of just removing the Flybar by taking out the screw, removing the bar to wing link, and glue the washout to the blade, parallel with the blade! On both sides of the blades. I've got about 4 extra sets of blades so I don't have to worry too much about goofing up. I have only the flybars that came on the heli so I'll play it safe. I do need to order some spare parts IE: linkages, main frame, Push rods, ect. maybe a set of skids and control boards. I had enough parts that I actually built another bastard Heli. LOL.... had to use the tail shaft and motor off an old MSR. It flew but the tail shaft broke on a good wall hit. Oh Yea..... The flybar acts much like a gyro on the V911 to keep it balanced in an upright orientation. I'm not going to expect too much, But I am thinking of giving it a go.

[Kwekwe]

Good Luck Tecpro , I got the Flybarless v911 off the ground but as soon as I'd move ANY direction other than UP she'd nose dive into ground might simply need adjusting and PATIENCE but since my MSR X arrived I'm fooling with that...... and seeing just how much the Flybar HELPS. Thinking shorter flybar with weights for next experiment.

Definitely will NOT be bringing my MSR X to my shop anytime soon to show off hehehehe

[GLHS592]

I never did get rid of the drift on my first V911. I've still enjoyed flying it. I ended up buying some replacement parts and one of those yellow BNF's from banggood. I got it yesterday and it is way more stable. It seems a little more durable also, especially the skids. It feels a little slower, but much easier to fly in the house. The only complaint I have is the flybar is more flexible and it strikes the canopy more frequently. The yellow V911 has a slight drift, but you can trim it out mostly. I can actually land it pretty much where I want to.

I flew my Syma coax while the white/blue V911 was down and picked up some bad habits. I'm done flying that one. Maybe the kids will like it when they get a little older.

I picked up an mCPx V2 and a Dx6i recently. I feel like the V911 has really helped me with the mCPx. It took me a little bit to get used to flipping the "throttle hold" switch instead of just killing the throttle like on the V911. I'm starting to be able to hover without it getting away from me. I believe I'm hooked on this hobby.

[Kwekwe]

Suggests mechanical fix for your leftward bound v911 pop tie rod off ball joint on left side n raise 2-3 turns and see if it stabilizes the leftward wander

[Kwekwe]

Yes I AM insane..... thinking Fuselages now. NO IDEA how light I'd need to make it to be able to fly still but Crazy shit fills head often.

Saw someone's Blade 120 SR converted to a MH6 ion another forum and the wheels on the bus in my cranium now going round and round heheheh

[GLHS592]

Originally Posted by Kwekwe

Suggests mechanical fix for your leftward bound v911 pop tie rod off ball joint on left side n raise 2-3 turns and see if it stabilizes the leftward wander

I tried that and a few other things. It just would not go away. Now, the yellow one has toilet bowl effect.

[Tecpro]

Originally Posted by GLHS592

I tried that and a few other things. It just would not go away. Now, the yellow one has toilet bowl effect.

which way is it spinning. if nose is spinning to the right then your trimming on the controller may be adjusted all the way to the right.. vice'a'versa if the other direction. check your controller's screen. it's just a thought! Center them and then go from there.

[Kwekwe]

Giggles, Stupidity with Paper , I know it looks like rubbish but the idea is there. Now to get some Heavier paper and maybe print a left and right side of a AH-64 or some such and Pin UNDER original Cowl AFTER beefing up with some clear Laquer

Not sure How much Laquer weight she'll still lift but fun experiment nonetheless.

[Tecpro]

Originally Posted by Kwekwe

Giggles, Stupidity with Paper , I know it looks like rubbish but the idea is there. Now to get some Heavier paper and maybe print a left and right side of a AH-64 or some such and Pin UNDER original Cowl AFTER beefing up with some clear Laquer

Not sure How much Laquer weight she'll still lift but fun experiment nonetheless.

How about getting some modeling clay and making a model of the canope you want. Then take some latex spray and go over the clay mode. Then Paint the latex with a Plastic paint. Would that work?