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Ufly Walkera Ufly Helicopter Support |
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05-29-2011, 11:11 AM | #221 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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i made some shims to go between the c-clip and blade holder by using some clear plastic packaging material , first i drilled a hole in it and then took a pair of paper hole punch pliers and centered it up on the hole i drilled and popped it out and it made perfect shims ....one thing good about it is if the shims are to thick i could lay them on a sanding block and rub them back n forth and thin them down if needed...
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05-29-2011, 12:06 PM | #222 (permalink) |
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I just tried the blade grip spacer, sanded down till it was 2mm thick,then installed them into the head.The space between the blade grip and head is already tight so on mine there is no shim required.Now about flight performance:still air it's an improvement ,you can trim to hands off hover!In wind it's all over the place ,I tried different gyro settings and longer swash plate balls,but it's still very twitchy,I'm not giving up on it yet but I usually fly in the wind so thats what i like to setup for
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05-29-2011, 12:20 PM | #223 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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wonder if a piece of vacuum hose off a car or truck would work in place of the dampeners...some of it is pretty small and it is stiff kind of rubber...not sure but fish aquarium air hose might be something else to try if the diameter is not to big...something else that i have used on other things is the shielding from electrical wire it is a stiff type of rubber just strip it off and cut it to the length you need...
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05-29-2011, 12:21 PM | #224 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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maybe heat shrink tubing could work if you add several layers to get the correct diameter needed...
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05-29-2011, 12:42 PM | #225 (permalink) |
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Those are some good ideas,I think there has to be a little play in there to adsorb some prop feedback so it doesn't react to every little gust or minor servo motion.I'm going to leave it alone till the wind dies down here and try it in still air to see if i like it !I turned down my gyros to nothing and the rx still keeps me from doing flips,probably a good thing for now!usually have them set at 30 percent for normal flight.
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05-29-2011, 01:02 PM | #226 (permalink) |
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The reason I'm thinking bearings is they are a tighter tolerance than the plastic bushings I made from blade bushings. I found the hole going through the head for the f-shaft too be worn oblong from the flex in the rubber o-rings.
The plastic ones are holding up fine and have worked out great, so maybe I'll just spin some out of Delrin on the lathe once the Xtreme grips show up . Steve |
05-29-2011, 02:15 PM | #228 (permalink) |
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Real twitchy and balloons when I use anything other than stock blades when there is wind. Stock blades perform the best for me outside. I also have the aileron and elevator pots turned all the way down. The sticks seem too mushy when they are turned up.
Inside I fly SuperBlades EZ that I trimmed, I can run a slower head speed, have plenty of lift and fly it easily around the house. Steve |
05-29-2011, 02:41 PM | #229 (permalink) |
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I thought the extra weight of the plastic xtremes would help slow down the twitchiness in the wind but they where much worse!To much blade area/lift and it took off down the driveway and crashed on it's nose ,only damage was small whole in nose got a little bigger.I think I'm going to use stock o-rings to hold the feathering shaft while i fill in the void in the head with some two part durometer rubber .Should take up the play and also flex .
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05-29-2011, 05:11 PM | #230 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
when you try doing a flip or loop what i do is during fast forward flight give it full back cyclic and hold it until it gets back level....i tried getting it nose up and releasing the stick and it wont complete the loop i have to hold full back on the stick to get it finish the loop... one reason is the gyros inhibits the cyclic , if you hold the heli by hand and slowly spool it up just enough to spin the blades , give it full cyclic and watch the servo, it keeps moving like the rudder servo does...without the blades spinning the servo goes to its set ext point and stops but with blades spinning it keeps traveling until it bottoms out....not sure if this helps it do the loops/flips but could be.... |
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05-29-2011, 05:24 PM | #231 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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i replaced my tail boom today from a blade strike last week with the extreme blades...guess thats the only thing i don't like about them they are heavier and really wack the boom hard....
has anybody noticed the inner bearing on the shaft in the boom wont come off? are they glued on ? i couldn't get them off ...luckily the shaft was not damaged but i had to use a dremel to cut the boom off in several sections to remove it, and the last piece between the 2 inner bearings i had to split it and slip it over the shaft cause the bearings wouldn't move...i guess if i ever need to replace the inner shaft i will have to cut it or just buy a bearing set next time i order parts.... |
05-29-2011, 07:37 PM | #232 (permalink) |
Join Date: Mar 2011
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There super glued on at the factory,I use scissors and snip it to the bearing,nail polish remover or acetone softens super glue enough to remove bearing from shaft.I wondered if it would do more damage somewhere with the extra weight,I've had a tip over and with the Xtreme plastic blade it bounced the heli back up like my s107!I haven't had a tail boom strike since I learned to tighten my blades right but I can see how that extra weight might be able to twist into the tail with how quick the flybarless can react.I think I'll stay with the stock blades until I perfect the rubber head dampners.
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05-29-2011, 07:46 PM | #233 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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the boom strike i had was the result of doing a loop a bit to low ..just barely didn't pull out and it landed hard on the skids which cause the blades to wack the boom...bent it fairly bad but i managed to straighten it and flew some more but i figured it would be best to just go a head and replace it ...also it bent the main shaft from the impact , i wonder if it would have bent it with lighter blades.....not to mention it bent the swash plate by the outer balls...i plan on getting the xtreme swash later on cause the walkera swash bends so easily with just a miner mishap...
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05-29-2011, 07:46 PM | #234 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
When I put the bearings on the new shaft, I placed the bearing almost to where it is to go then put a drop of CA glue on the shaft then slid the bearing quickly into place. Don't place the bearing and put a drop of glue at the edge of the bearing or it will surly wick and bind up the bearing. Removing glued bearings are easier with the same method. Steve |
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05-29-2011, 08:40 PM | #235 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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luckily my shaft was fine so i didn't need to replace it just the boom needed replacing....anybody no of any better quality bearings other then the stock bearings? they seem kind of sloppy to me and should have less play in them in my opinion...i looked on Boca Bearings web-site and they have the sizes needed but there expensive ,some are almost $8.00 each....and not ceramic ether, would be worth it for ceramic bearings...
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05-29-2011, 08:47 PM | #236 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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not sure but these might work for the o-ring dampeners ...
http://helidirect.com/xtreme-spindle...02-p-18694.hdx or you could get the replacements for the v370 http://helidirect.com/walkera-main-r...04-p-21882.hdx Last edited by magicmarty; 05-29-2011 at 08:59 PM.. Reason: more info.. |
05-30-2011, 08:27 AM | #237 (permalink) |
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Perhaps this can be tooled into cushions. I am going to order a piece and see if I can spin it into shape
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-rods/=cj2d4d part #8695K272 I would like to know what these are made of. http://www.readyheli.com/DAMPENERS2-...d_p_32413.html The more I experiment with the feathering shaft the more I see how critical it is to tracking and response. It rots that some of the UFLY parts can't be had without buying the whole assembly. example ball ends. Steve |
05-30-2011, 12:42 PM | #238 (permalink) |
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I just tried another feathering shaft mod that seems to work.I preloaded the orings,I used small washers and put them behind the orings and reassembled.Takes a bit of pressure to get the last c-clip installed,but it makes it rigid while still having some flex plus you could sand down washers to adjust tension or stack plastic washers like Marty uses !It flys very precise ,so I also turned down servo extent.In still air it's very nice and pridictable,in 10 mph wind if you fly into it fff it flys like there's hardly any wind but if you try to hover in the wind it becomes a handfull as every little motion feeds back ,it's like when first getting used to the flybarless head (maybe to responsive)!I may try to sand down washers a bit and try again but I like it so far plus those c clips are buggers to install!
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05-30-2011, 01:12 PM | #239 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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i read some where that lightly oiling the dampeners will make them last twice as long so i put a small amount of oil on mine and it keeps them conditioned and they seem to be holding up well so far......it softens them up a bit tho so if you find something that works but is a bit to stiff you might try putting some oil on it to soften it up a bit...
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05-30-2011, 01:15 PM | #240 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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why couldn't a person take the feathering shaft out of the head and clean up the hole where it goes and fill it with silicon and let it cure up then drill a small hole thru the silicon for the shaft to slide thru ? might be something to try unless silicon if to soft...
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370d01, flybarless, uflys, walkera |
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