Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread

[dunkonu23]

FYI, I ordered some of that 3M 1170 tape, 5/8" width. You probably use that stuff for the control cavity of guitars... probably copper. I have some of the copper stuff but it's not very bendy and the sheets are thick--for guitars, too.

Scott

[BaconRaygun]

You bet! The difference is unbelievable... I've done quite a few.

[Eric Brandenburg]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

Here's the picture... Remember... I want comments. I have tried the other side of the frame on this wiring and there is no pinching or crimping.

Before you post, please read this:

"I'll be posting up some pictures of how I have mine wired in a couple of hours. Here's the deal, though... the cyclic wires are internal and are very close to--no, touching--the side of the ESC. Since the ESC is unshielded, wires are unshielded, and ESC's have high speed switching circuits so there is a chance of induced noise. That said, I have run wires close to the ESC without problems. So, we'll see.. I'm going to post the pictures and throw this one out for debate when I get home. Just please keep it civil. Remember, this is a test wiring so you folks can help determine how it is finally wired. My thought is the wires should be on the outside with the frame CF used as a shield, but we'll talk about that. "



Scott

Hey Scott, chances are that unless you are running a Vbar it will most likely be fine. That particular unit seems to be the most sensitive to things like RFI or static.

[dunkonu23]

That's what I'm thinking. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do it the way in the picture just o see. I guess if it goes haywire, I'll know.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Finally, it's time to button up the frames. I've made my wiring choice. I'm pretty confident it should work out.



I opted to run the cyclic servo leads on the inside of the frame next to the ESC. I also bundled the long throttle lead and taped it to the ESC. Note that I cut out the dividers to the stock cutouts on the electronics tray. I Goop'd slit heat shrink tubing to the edges so the wires would not be damaged--even though I sanded the edges. Also, note the servo lead clearance from the frame and the electronics tray standoff/spacer.



As mentioned earlier when I installed the boom, belts, pulleys, and main shaft, I removed the nylock nuts and washers, put the frame over the screws, then reinstalled the washers and nuts. I only tightened in a crossing pattern until the boom was snug. I'll adjust belt tension later, but it seems pretty good, now. We'll see later.



This shows the clearance of the belt tensioner pulleys prior to installing the special washer and screws.



Here we're installing the special wash and screws for the belt tensioner. No thread locker or cranking down on the screws yet--only make them snug as later we'll also adjust drive belt tension.



I then installed the screw for the spacer with thread locker.



When installing the bearing block screws, snug them down first.



Then tighten them in a crossing pattern.



For the battery tray, like we did on the other side of the frame, use CA in the screw holes. Again, I started in the middle and worked my way out with each screw.



Electronics tray installation. Two screws, thread locker applied.



The special washer for the motor mount and attaching screws.



Just snug them down and don't use thread locker. They must be able to slide when we adjust drive belt tension.

The frame is now buttoned up. I also installed the tail control rod. Others have reported they had to shorten the rod, but that does not appear the case with my installation. Thanks to Mike J. at Nankin for the replacement sleeves!

Next up, we'll do the lower canopy mount and landing gear.

Scott

[Jeff_Barrett]

TIP ... for the special CF washers on the belt guide pulley block, I put washers between the screw heads and the CF washer to help spread the pressure out and prevent them from cracking (mine cracked without the washers).

[dunkonu23]

That's actually the way a lot of other helicopters with "special washers" do it. Good tip!

Scott

[Ah Clem]

Scott,

Beautiful build thread, sir-as usual!

[dunkonu23]

Thank you, sir! It has been fun. Later today, we'll continue with the final structural elements of the helicopter, then over the weekend, time permitting (holidays, shopping, family, etc.), we'll move into basic setup. I'm particularly interested in checking out a new tool they say can be used to level swashplates and if that doesn't work out, inventing one!

Scott

[Rob43]

I think we could use any swash leveler with nearly same ball center circle diameter as the Wap swash, and bore it for 6mm shaft. Or maybe, an adapter bushing for one made for an 8mm shaft.

[heathy]

How about the compass one from the 6hv?

[Tailbender]

Great to see these build threads... there are ton of tricks to making it right and every one I pick up new stuff...

[Rob43]

Originally Posted by heathy

How about the compass one from the 6hv?

It's fine for checking level at only one pitch position, but not max, min, and zero. The nice part about that gadget is it made setting zero an easy one step process for both 6HV, 7HV. I don't know what elevation is needed for this machine yet. The 6HV block is 18mm tall.

Still, I will check my other levelers to see if one of them can simply have an adapter bushing fitted. I work upstairs from a large machine shop location, so I know folks who can crank things out like this.

[heathy]

That's good enough for me mate, never bothered checking top and bottom before

[dunkonu23]

Okay, guys.. here we go with the landing gear, canopy mount, and canopy!



Bag 44 45 Contains the landing gear, lower canopy mount and hardware.



Contents of bag 44 45



Landing gear mounts and canopy mounts out of the bag and laid out pretty much how they are installed.



There are posts in the bag that are used to hold both the lower canopy mount and the landing gear in place. I thought the best thing was to thread the landing gear mounting screws and use them to hold in the posts while I mounted the lower canopy mount.



The lower canopy mount assembled and ready for installation.



Use thread locker on the screws and rotate the posts so the machined flat spot mates with the spacer on the lower canopy mount.



Tighten the screws evenly-making sure the lower canopy mount spacers are in the machined flat spots on the posts.



Here I depart from the manual yet again. I removed two of the landing gear mounts and the screws. I slid the plastic landing gear mount over the landing gear and lined up the holes in the mount with the slots in the landing gear. I tried to install. them at this point only to find...



The screws were too long--I couldn't tighten them--they bottomed out. I cut approximately 3mm from each screw. The picture above shows a screw of its original size and the cut down screw.



I was pretty confident the cut down screws would work, so I slowly threaded the screws into the landing gear mount and applied thread locker to each screw.



Because the inside half of the plastic landing gear mount requires the screw to be threaded through, you must hold the plastic mount as you tighten the screws. Alternate tightening each screw about two turns at a time so no side forces are present. It also helps to push up on the landing gear as you're holding the mount and tightening the screw.



Here's an alternative grip you can use to push up on the landing gear as you're tightening the screws. This way works best on the side not used for your rudder servo. You place your thumb on the underside of the landing gear and a finger in side the open rudder servo hole and squeeze as you tighten the screw.

When you've gotten the screws tight, take a look at the sides of the mount. The landing gear must be all the way in the mount. If you have to loosen the screws, no biggie, just push up on the landing gear and slightly rotate the mount until both sides of the landing gear are flush inside the mount. Then slowly re-tighten as above.

Remove the landing gear mounts and screws from the other side of the frame and repeat.



Here the landing gear are installed. They're tight. I have no fear of them falling out in flight or in transit.



Next we're going to install the canopy. Shown above is the canopy and the unmarked bag from inside the big box with the grommets and lower canopy mount slide with screws.



First, I installed the grommets. The holes in my canopy had to be reamed slightly. No biggie, this is normal for most kits I have built. Since the canopy was pre-reamed, it was easy. I've had other kits where the canopy didn't even have nubs for reaming.



Next you should install the lower canopy-side mount. This mount slides over the frame-side canopy mount as shown--curved side down so it will conform with the shape of the canopy. You'll notice it's not drilled.

At this point, install the canopy--make sure you slide the canopy over the mount. Take many looks at the canopy to make sure it's straight, then use something like a sharpie or scribe to make a mark through the pre-drilled lower canopy holes and onto the lower canopy-side mount.

Drill holes for the mount screws into the plastic. I used a 1/16" drill bit.



Remove the canopy-side mount from the frame-side mount and drill your holes. Next, use the self-tapping phillips head screws, pre-tap the holes in the plastic canopy mount. Remove the screws, line up the plastic mount and thread in the screws. Above shows what the canopy-side mount looks like installed in the canopy.



The canopy and landing gear are installed!

Next up, we'll adjust belt tension, tighten down the motor and belt tensioner, do the boom, and move on to basic setup!

Scott

[dunkonu23]

BTW... an idea for a simple swash leveler came to me. I'll expand more when I get there.

Scott

[Bob O]

My landing gear fully seat in the bolt slots, but not fully in the mounting gaps. They have about 2mm to go. Seems that the bolt slots aren't deep enough to allow full seating into the gaps to the point of being flush. They are equal on both sides and the heli sits level though. I'll check it again tomorrow to see if the mounts are crooked. However I already double checked yesterday and the gap exists on both sides of each mount.

Sent from my phone

[Rob43]

Guys, one tip I picked up from DominicD a few years ago has served me very well for canopy grommets. Apply a bit of Shoe Goo around the grommet inside the canopy. It provides some strain relief and retention for the grommet. Seems to make the grommet last ALOT longer. Maybe until suitable RCBooya's are available...


Also, I found that my landing gear didn't sit squarely on the table when installed. I loosened the canopy mount tab posts a bit, and it allowed the retaining bushings to seat properly, and allowed it to sit squarely on the table when I retightened.

[dunkonu23]

Landing gear mounts... it took a couple of tries, but I did get the gear to seat completely. Of course, black on black does not show well in pictures, but it does seat. I just had to make sure the apex of the curved slit in the mount was straight up and down. The helicopter rests flat, too. If your landing gear are good and you're happy, then I wouldn't futz with them.

On the canopy grommets. I don't think mine are going anywhere. I resized the canopy holes just enough to get them in. But... the Shoe Goo or Goop idea is a good one! Thanks for sharing!

Scott

[PauloG]

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