logo 600 sx vs old 600 3d

[brain]

Originally Posted by MarkH

It is. Although the new shaft is shorter, the distance from the hole the pin for the tail drive pulley goes through and the c-clip is longer. If you install the tail pulley and main gear, there is still about 1/4" left to the c-clip groove. So unless you want to add a bunch of washer, you need to use the new counterbearing unit.

I just converted my 3D over to the SX. The only issue I had was some missing screws. The washout arms now attach to the head block using m3x20 screws. These also double for tightening the block to the main shaft. The existing screws are m3x14. I had some spares so it was not an issue.

I think some missing from Mikado, my package came with the same situation. Simplest solution is to use two blade bolts of Trex 500, it fixed perfect without issue so far

[jenmik1]

I'm fitting the upgrade at the moment. My upgrade kit was missing the 2 M3x20 scews also. It did have the 3 servo to swash rods and the 2 swash to blade grip rods. The servo to swash rods were 5mm longer that the standard rods. The 5mm extra length ensures the swash foller arms are level when the servo arms are at 90. I've fitted the upgrade counterbearing and you do lose 1.5mm battery clearance from the orginal counterbearing set up. Overall this is a nice upgrade and you can see where the thought has gone. One nice touch that hasn't been mentioned yet is a small amount of main gear end float help self alignment on the pinion. In particular I like the beafy O ring dampeners. I don't think I needed to upgrade given my skill level, but like Dave says everything is engineered for a longer life. I like it.

[MarkH]

My skill level definitely did not warrant the upgrade. I just have an issue when new stuff comes out. I did send a note to Ready Heli about the missing screws and they are aware of it and have notified Mikado.

[bj660raptor]

can I use my old tail grips and all bearings,i.e. thrust bearings? so all I have to buy is the hub and wa la? Thanks

[EO19]

A main shaft locking collar is a perfect fit on the bottom of the main shaft to take up the space of the missing counter bearing support. This would allow for the head upgrade on the 500 minus the counter bearing.

[CyprusFlyer]

Originally Posted by jenmik1

I'm fitting the upgrade at the moment. My upgrade kit was missing the 2 M3x20 scews also. It did have the 3 servo to swash rods and the 2 swash to blade grip rods. The servo to swash rods were 5mm longer that the standard rods. The 5mm extra length ensures the swash foller arms are level when the servo arms are at 90. I've fitted the upgrade counterbearing and you do lose 1.5mm battery clearance from the orginal counterbearing set up. Overall this is a nice upgrade and you can see where the thought has gone. One nice touch that hasn't been mentioned yet is a small amount of main gear end float help self alignment on the pinion. In particular I like the beafy O ring dampeners. I don't think I needed to upgrade given my skill level, but like Dave says everything is engineered for a longer life. I like it.

Now it makes sense, have already complained to Mikado, don't expect any satisfaction lets see! I did not get the longer servo link rods, looks like they sent the upgrade as 2 separate sets. Extra 5mm on the rods would make life so much easier. A lack of thought on the upgrades IMO.

Spent the morning trying to get it right, I had some Quick UK ball links that were exactly 2.5mm longer from shank to hole!! Well there's my 5mm extra, only problem they are for 2mm threaded rod. I had a clearance drill specially for a 2.5mm tap so run the drill into the link, still plenty of chunky plastic left. A bit of hard work got them onto the existing rods.

I took the head off and leveled the swash with the VBar setup active, then put it all together, now the swash arms are level at 0 deg pitch, then calibrated with the blades on, checking the Vbar setup again, perfect.
A quick hover out the back and all is well.

So for information, really need that extra 5mm for the servo to swash control rods.

The counter bearing wasn't too difficult although I did worry that I might pre-load the motor bearings if the pinion was a little too low. Took the motor mount plate off and clamped up to make absolutely sure, not much room for error though!
Also interesting that 0.5mm axial play is recommended on the main gear, used some 0.25mm shims to get that just right.

[CyprusFlyer]

So fairly happy now, will checkout fully this weekend, BTW just thought I would mention that I have used the KDE tail upgrade and Align tail rotors from day one, nicely made and perform very well, much more sturdy than stock, infact the rotor is the same on Trex 700 with 105 blades. Another bonus is no requirment for those blasted plastic blade spacers!

I have had the 600SE upgrade parts for a while and would like to try Rail 695 blades in the future. The lower head is a new variable, however, the clearance on the boom is about 18cm at the blade tips. Now then, my TDR has approx 17cm clearance, and the head is allowed to see-saw, which allows another 5mm play at the blade tips (710 blades). I would argue that there is still enough clearance to swing 700 blades with the SX configuration. So then its a 600SE and 600SX so that will be the 600SEX then i presume :-)

Post edit: Mikado are posting the 35mm rods and 20mm button head screws today, they say they were missing from early kits, good resolution

[mahbouni]

Originally Posted by CyprusFlyer

Post edit: Mikado are posting the 35mm rods and 20mm button head screws today, they say they were missing from early kits, good resolution

Do you know if they are going to give them free to all those who bought the early kits?

[CyprusFlyer]

Dont know, but all I did is post a complaint on their website using the "Contact us" box. Just keep it polite and to the point.

[mahbouni]

Originally Posted by CyprusFlyer

Dont know, but all I did is post a complaint on their website using the "Contact us" box. Just keep it polite and to the point.

Thanks, I have done the same. Hopefully they will respond soon.

[CyprusFlyer]

Just answered a PM ref mixing and matching new parts, not a good idea, if you change the head block, you need the new shaft because the hole for the Jesus bolt is in a otally different place, close to the top. If you use the new shaft, you need the counter bearing arrangement, or have a spacer which I suppose could be a mainshaft bearing and some shims.

You can however still use the old gear and pinion, my upgrade kit came with 6 extra washers in case I wanted to use the old gear/pinion.

Best go for the complete upgrade kit, watch out, I dont think the two separate kits come with the servo rods which are 5mm extra (35mm total). Early complete kits didnt come with those but presume QC has kicked in by now!

[prototype3a]

This makes me really sad as I don't totally love the new counterbearing....

I would, however, like to hear more as to why you can't use just the new headblock. Would the different bolt location cause the rotor head to be much higher than a 3D?


I feel that it is now that we need to know if Mikado has any plans for the SX to fully replace the 3D/SE. If 3D parts are discontinued in a year or two, I'll be unhappy that I'm forced to "upgrade".

[CyprusFlyer]

Actually just had another look through some old parts, the new Vbar Head block should fit OK, would have to use the old clampy swash arm holder, hate that part! And there would not be much difference in the rotor height. Up to you, may be worth getting the parts to try. Big advantages on the new head, bigger rubbers and they have steel shaped spacers between O rings ond radial blade grip bearings. That plastic spacer of old used to wear away in no time.

The new counter bearing I like, hovered it the other day, the whole assy gets quite warm from the motor, so effectively acting as a bigger heat sink.

[prototype3a]

I never used the crummy plastic spacers. I've used Align brass spacers from day one. They're a bit larger and contact both sides properly. I also switched to the trueblood dampers as they seem to last longer and they fly much better than the stock "extrahard" o-rings.

The new counter bearing does look like a nice piece but there is no 25mm spacing version (yet?) and I am concerned that my batteries may not fit with the new part installed. It sounds as if it is much larger than the existing counter bearing.

I just hate the idea of one "upgrade" requiring $100 in other parts or in my case, a pair of new motors.

[wespen]

Whats the difference between 4620 and 4670 shafts?

http://www.rcmarket.org/Main-rotor-s...GO-600-SX.html
vs
http://rcflightstore.com/product_inf...oducts_id=4732

[prototype3a]

Looks like 4670 is shorter... Maybe it is for use with the new head when you don't want to use the new counterbearing?

[Si_B]

Can I still use the original head with the 3rd bearing upgrade? If so, what links do I need to get it to work.

[Duramax11]

Could I install these parts on my 500?

[CyprusFlyer]

Just for information, I have found some perfect control rods for servo to swash, they are 43 x 2.5mm. You get plenty of thread in the plastic links and plenty of adjustment scope. Mine are set up at 64mm on the new SX Head. Happy with that as the swash arms are level at 0 degrees pitch and geometry looks right and new rods, swash to blade grips set correctly.

Believe they are for the Synergy N5, just get 2 packs:
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/107-...m-p-10828.html

[Si_B]

Just for info if it helps anyone. I'm running the new shorter shaft with the original head. The drop in blade height works out the same, but you need shorter links to the head grips. I used the 2.5mm x 55mm links that are used in the Logo 400. With this set up, I got the zero pitch back. Maidened at the weekend and I'm really chuffed.

Cheers,
Simon