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Old 01-05-2013, 06:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I think on the DX6i you would hold the roller down while powering up. You need to set the swash type to 1servo/90* is how it will read on the menu (I think).

Ok just looked at a manual from my older DX6i I used to have. Unless it change here is how you get to the List/Setup menu where you can change the swash type.

"From any program function screen, pressing and holding the roller for more than three seconds then releasing the
roller will return the display to the LIST or SETUP screen."
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thank you larry227 I appreciate the help. I'll give it a try tomorrow.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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There's an easier way. Just click your wheel into ADJUST list, then scroll all the way down to the last choice which is SETUP list click on it. Scroll down to choice #5 Which is SWASH TYPE click on that. Choose ONESERVO90. and your done. Then just use travel adjust to make sure all the fields on step 23 are green and you should be good to go.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thank you I figured it out before. I thought that was another function.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #25 (permalink)
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on step 15 on the second wizard is swash set up. when doing this step your blades are stright front to back. it asks to adjust your helicopters maximum clyclic pitch 10 degrees. when doing this do you use the front blade or rear blade. im using a digital pitch gauge if it matters.

this is step 15
With your rotor positioned as shown in Step 13, use the "Aileron Cyclic" mixing field on the Swash tab to adjust your helicopter's maximum cyclic pitch. Ten degrees is a good starting point for most sport fliers.
Try to keep swash mixes to 60% or less. This prevents unwanted interaction at max and min collective.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:52 PM   #26 (permalink)
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on step 15 on the second wizard is swash set up. when doing this step your blades are stright front to back. it asks to adjust your helicopters maximum clyclic pitch 10 degrees. when doing this do you use the front blade or rear blade. im using a digital pitch gauge if it matters.

this is step 15
With your rotor positioned as shown in Step 13, use the "Aileron Cyclic" mixing field on the Swash tab to adjust your helicopter's maximum cyclic pitch. Ten degrees is a good starting point for most sport fliers.
Try to keep swash mixes to 60% or less. This prevents unwanted interaction at max and min collective.
Technically it doesn't matter. You will get your cyclic pitch reading either way, but one blade will read positive and the other negative.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:49 PM   #27 (permalink)
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the reason i was asking is because i got 10.0 on the rear and -07.5 on the front. sorry i'm a beginner.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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the reason i was asking is because i got 10.0 on the rear and -07.5 on the front. sorry i'm a beginner.
Have you adjusted your swash links to get a level swash yet? You should have a linear pitch curve set into your TX for set up (0,25,50,75,100) and you should have 0 pitch on both blades at mid stick. You should have already been through the part of the wizard where all three cyclic servos have been adjusted so they are 90 degrees at mid stick.

Place your blades 90 degrees to the heli and check the pitch on each blades. They should both be at 0 degrees at mid stick. You can check this this without being connected up to the software (make sure you unplug two of the three motor wires so the motor can't start) If at mid stick all servos are 90 and you don't have equal pitch on each blade, you will need to adjust the links mechanically so that both blades read the same.

It sounds like you might be going through the software setup without first having the head zeroed out mechanically first.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:02 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I did zero out the head mechaniclly. I could only get it to 0.03 and -0.03 when I did the zero
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:50 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I did zero out the head mechaniclly. I could only get it to 0.03 and -0.03 when I did the zero
Then you should be fine. I just wanted to make sure your swash was set mechanically correct first before moving on to other things. It's really hard to get things perfect, especially using a digital pitch gauge which will show the slightest amount of slop in linkages, etc and can even read slightly different if you measure at different points on the blade.

You can twist the blade with the gauge on it and see the values wander a couple degrees as the linkages move a bit.
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Thanks your right about the digital gauge there really sensitive to movement. To get the most accurate reading you probably need to set the gauge in the same exact place. I didn't know how sensitive they are
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:41 PM   #32 (permalink)
 
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Thanks your right about the digital gauge there really sensitive to movement. To get the most accurate reading you probably need to set the gauge in the same exact place. I didn't know how sensitive they are
=] you need to calibrate the mast to the zero gauge to avoid double readings....
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Sorry but how do you do that
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:24 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Sorry but how do you do that
What Georgi means is your readings should be relative to the main shaft since the blades you are measuring are 90 to it and not the table, ground or whatever the heli happens to be sitting on that may or may not be level.

I take the head button off my helis and zero the pitch gauge on top of the head block, then measure the blade pitch. This way zero is referenced based on the main shaft.

Imagine that your heli is sitting on a table tilting slightly forward. The main shaft would be tilited and so would the blades. The pitch gauge would read that you had a small amount of negative pitch on the blades at mid stick even though it was actually zero, because its referencing zero as the table and not the shaft. The shaft will be straight up once the heli is in the air, so that is the reference point.

Does that make sense?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:01 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Ok thanks I understand what you mean now. Thank you for explaining it to me.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:03 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I take the head button off my helis and zero the pitch gauge on top of the head block, then measure the blade pitch. This way zero is referenced based on the main shaft.
That's exactly how I do it also. Luckily my headblock is flat on top and so are my grips so I actually do all my measuring with the blades off, I just use the tops of the grips.
Just remember to zero it out each time you check something, especially if moving from checking collective pitch with the blades to the sides and then cyclic pitch with the blades over the boom/nose.

Also I never check pitch on opposite sides. Figured I would get OCD about it and drive myself crazy. If it tracks well on the next flight (and it usually does) it must be ok.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:23 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Ok thanks I understand what you mean now. Thank you for explaining it to me.
What digital pitch gauge are you using BTW? I'm seeing many not so happy people with the Align digital gauge. Looks like several are having issues with random and inaccurate readings.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:25 PM   #38 (permalink)
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That's exactly how I do it also. Luckily my headblock is flat on top and so are my grips so I actually do all my measuring with the blades off, I just use the tops of the grips.
Just remember to zero it out each time you check something, especially if moving from checking collective pitch with the blades to the sides and then cyclic pitch with the blades over the boom/nose.

Also I never check pitch on opposite sides. Figured I would get OCD about it and drive myself crazy. If it tracks well on the next flight (and it usually does) it must be ok.
I can't remember the last time I had to adjust tracking on a build. Get it right on the bench and it should track perfectly
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:03 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I'm using the align ap800 knowing my luck it's probably the worst one ever made lol.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:01 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I'm using the align ap800 knowing my luck it's probably the worst one ever made lol.
You may want to read up here in case you are having issues. https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=416335

Several are not happy and having to return them.
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