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Align 3G FBL System Align 3G FBL Flybarless System Software and Hardware Support


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Old 10-15-2010, 11:58 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I have Trex 500 ESP and have a 3G in route with the 2.1 update, should I do this mod before install? Are you guys not happy at all with the performance out of the box? Also just wondering if this Goop or what ever silicone products your putting on the main circuit board will lead to a thermal issue not being able to dissipate heat leading to a possible failure. I really just want a plug and play system but reading through all these threads it sounds like that's not gonna happen. Here's what I gathered so far, tell me if I'm missing something.
-Goop the board linking all three sensors to eliminate vibration to the sensor.
-Use Spartan thick pad then metal plate then thin pad and attach sensor.
-Seal the back of the pins on the white connectors so they don't back out.
-2 bearings in the torque tube to eliminate vibration there
-Add a power bus so power for all the servos is not run solely through the the Aileron power wire.
I think that's it. Jees, that's allot of sh*t Let me know please.
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:56 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Just did the mod to my 500 ESP ...

Note of interest: On my 3G sensor purchased a month ago it already had the socket pins epoxied.





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Old 10-16-2010, 01:39 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondabear View Post
Speaking about tapes and such....Im about to REMOVE the plate and go with just a single piece of 4010 w no strap. Ill report back later.
After the mod, the stock tape might also work, can you also test it with the stock tape?
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:12 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acidla View Post
After the mod, the stock tape might also work, can you also test it with the stock tape?
Did you remove those two tabs on the upper casing before assembling or you assembled before the silicone set and let those two tabs go into the silicone ??
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:14 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Better with them gone maybe?
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:14 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Did you remove those two tabs on the upper casing before assembling or you assembled before the silicone set and let those two tabs go into the silicone ??
The question was to Ntrospect..
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:15 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The question was to Ntrospect..

Yes I removed them, I used a very sharp woodcarving chisel & cut them off flush to the case...
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:27 AM   #88 (permalink)
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about to change tape to single 4010 and remove strap. ill test with old settings then change to stock settings w more swash return. peace!
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:45 AM   #89 (permalink)
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4010 is a WINNER!......Heli just got quicker and quicker. NO NEED for tape and plate combo anymore.....thank GOD!

Felt REALLY locked in and un boggable!

NO STRAP either.

Im gna change settings back to stock and see what happens. Ill post another vid. (better one w a cameraman) after im done testing.PEACE!
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:13 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Nice!
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:47 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Great! I was wondering if you need the strap or not. Man I can't wait to try my 700 out tomorrow!
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Old 10-16-2010, 01:28 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Default made the mod

this morning, more to report later this evening.

Seems like the problem that's been identified here is that the two vertically mounted sensors are acting like "tuning forks" as previously described. Some parts of the total sensor are moving independently of the others, due to vibrations.

The mod addresses this by gluing all three sensors together, makeing it a better single unit. Whatever vibrations exists are felt by all three sensors -- nobody is moving differently than the whole, which is what the software assumes.

So it's not so much the vibrations being transmitted from the case to the sensors, which seems like it will happen in any case through the mounting screws. That's a problem for mounting tape and maybe plates to address. The solution here seems to be that it's making a solid block out of the sensors so they all move exactly together.

That being said, the right things to do might be just to stuff the case full of silicon and make ithe whole thing a potted module, like one of the previous posts. That's not what I did, mine looks like some of the pictures here. Off to fly.

dpa

Oh yeah, stock Trex 700e, Castle HV 85, (gov 2050 rpm) 12S 5000mAh, also 3300mAh, 3G FBL blades.
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:33 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Im flying the LUKE settings now. I like the way it feels a bit more than mine soo im gna keep it that way untill I fly enough to suit it to my style.
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:35 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpa View Post
So it's not so much the vibrations being transmitted from the case to the sensors, which seems like it will happen in any case through the mounting screws. That's a problem for mounting tape and maybe plates to address. The solution here seems to be that it's making a solid block out of the sensors so they all move exactly together.

That being said, the right things to do might be just to stuff the case full of silicon and make ithe whole thing a potted module, like one of the previous posts. That's not what I did, mine looks like some of the pictures here. Off to fly.
That's what I'm thinking also. Might help if it weighs a bit more too, harder to vibrate.

I used some epoxy and filled up my case (enough so it doesnt overflow or ooze out the connector side), put the circuits back in, then put some epoxy on the main board and screwed the base on. It is unitized now

I'm at work so I cant validate the adjustments I made today in windy conditions...but flying my T250 in the windless garage here, I was able to turn up the Lock Gain past where it would get nervous before, it's really locked now . I had nervousness related to headspeed issues also before...not now. Seems like a good mod to me so far.
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:55 PM   #95 (permalink)
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For those of you that are going to make the glue ooze out of the unit, you can put some tape over the top of the white plug recpticle covering the holes where the glue squeezes out. If you use thin scotch tape you can just leave it there, if you use a stronger tape, you can still pull the tape out after it is all assembed and the glue has dried. This way, the pins stay clean.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:42 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Leon, are any other Team Align pilots using this mod?
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:13 PM   #97 (permalink)
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WOW this looks like a must do. I have 3 of them to do!
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:56 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon Luke View Post
This way, the pins stay clean.

Now you tell me! I was wondering why the cable wouldnt go back in
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:57 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esmoglo View Post
WOW this looks like a must do. I have 3 of them to do!
Heh, 2 more to go for me. 1 I know is in a horrible vibe heli...just the extra weight of the glue I'm sure will help a ton.
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Old 10-16-2010, 05:55 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Going to go out & test my modded unit shortly, I also ended up putting silicone on the base of the rudder sensor as well. Up until now I've been having issues with vibration induced tail drifting & battling with decent gain settings without the usual tail wag rearing it's head...can't wait to try it out
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