radical pics

[nismo200sx16]

couple flight pix from today

[nismo200sx16]

[helimanny]

this is starting to get good great pics nismo...leave any crop circles?....

[strat1960s]

Nismo,

Those are some great pictures. Good to see you got your bird off the ground.
I'm still working on mine. I'll have it figured out before too long...

Ted

[ngin]

Great pictuers!!! Now for a video??

[nismo200sx16]

crop circles are all over my field. and some crop stripes from some low inverted passes. I do have some videos on youtube. but only one of the radikal just flying around. I dont fly the radikal near as hard as my other helis. and I feel like it doesn't have the power it should. still fun though.

[Billme]

Running stock is not going to give blazing performance, but like you say, its still fun...In order to get a gasser to move around better, specially on collective, its best not to run a linear pitch curve... Its ok to run one, but your wasting a lot of energy slighty above and below 0 pitch...

According to what radio, and the number of points you have on the curve to make it more like a reverse french "S" type curve...

To do this, just use your marks, or dash lines on your collective throttle stick..Make sure 0 pitch is half stick, then move to the next line, then compare it on the pitch curve which point you should adjust for or closer to the first mark...I adjust the first two marks by flight, but if you are new to this,you may want to use your degree meter and make sure you have the right setup, and will be able to tell the difference if you make a change..

On a 7 point its real easy, you just go to half stick, and makes sure its zero at 50% at that point, this leaves 3 above half stick, and three below...Moving to the next line mark, you want to make sure you have 4 degs, make it so.. On the next mark, you want to make sure its 8 degs, and of course the last line is high pitch..mine is 11 degs. you do the negative side also.. You will most of the time after you get it flying, will want to adjust the first line above, and below half stick to get the movement you want.. You may find that you need to take out some top end pitch..Once you learn collective management better, you will find that you don't need full power to get the heli to move right.. Before, you had to go to high pitch to get the machine to move...You hear guys pulling large amount of pitch, and that is ok for testing, but its best to optimize the power near 0 pitch, or half stick.for 3D flight.

This will make the collective kinda sensitive around half stick...For those of you that have the more modern radios, you may have two rolls of numbers on the pitch curve of the Futaba radios...Those numbers on the right, you probably have not fooled with.. What they do is move the selected point left and right, something you may not be use to..Of course the numbers on the left move the point up and down.....On a 5 point curve, these numbers help a lot, so you can put the point where you need it.. By moving the points away from half stick, or 50% it will help take some of the sensitivity out...
Don't sweat it if you don't have this capability, you can fly it and get use to it. I like it sensitive, but its not as bad as you think with the slightly heaver gas machine....

Bill

[mss001]

Originally Posted by Billme

Running stock is not going to give blazing performance, but like you say, its still fun...In order to get a gasser to move around better, specially on collective, its best not to run a linear pitch curve... Its ok to run one, but your wasting a lot of energy slighty above and below 0 pitch...

According to what radio, and the number of points you have on the curve to make it more like a reverse french "S" type curve...

To do this, just use your marks, or dash lines on your collective throttle stick..Make sure 0 pitch is half stick, then move to the next line, then compare it on the pitch curve which point you should adjust for or closer to the first mark...I adjust the first two marks by flight, but if you are new to this,you may want to use your degree meter and make sure you have the right setup, and will be able to tell the difference if you make a change..

On a 7 point its real easy, you just go to half stick, and makes sure its zero at 50% at that point, this leaves 3 above half stick, and three below...Moving to the next line mark, you want to make sure you have 4 degs, make it so.. On the next mark, you want to make sure its 8 degs, and of course the last line is high pitch..mine is 11 degs. you do the negative side also.. You will most of the time after you get it flying, will want to adjust the first line above, and below half stick to get the movement you want.. You may find that you need to take out some top end pitch..Once you learn collective management better, you will find that you don't need full power to get the heli to move right.. Before, you had to go to high pitch to get the machine to move...You hear guys pulling large amount of pitch, and that is ok for testing, but its best to optimize the power near 0 pitch, or half stick.for 3D flight.

This will make the collective kinda sensitive around half stick...For those of you that have the more modern radios, you may have two rolls of numbers on the pitch curve of the Futaba radios...Those numbers on the right, you probably have not fooled with.. What they do is move the selected point left and right, something you may not be use to..Of course the numbers on the left move the point up and down.....On a 5 point curve, these numbers help a lot, so you can put the point where you need it.. By moving the points away from half stick, or 50% it will help take some of the sensitivity out...
Don't sweat it if you don't have this capability, you can fly it and get use to it. I like it sensitive, but its not as bad as you think with the slightly heaver gas machine....

Bill

If you could just clarify, is the objective to make the collective more or less sensitive around center stick?

Thank you

[Billme]

The objective is to get load on the system as quick as possible from 0 pitch. Unfortunately it makes it more sensitive, but not as bad as a very light model...You are actually making the model move more like a lighter model...

Think of it like this..You have a 5 lb ball in one hand, and a 10 lb ball in the other.. You can lift the balls at the same rate, but you have to compensate for the heavier ball to do so. Adding more pitch quicker is like you compensating for the heavier weight.. ok?

[MotorRotor]

Hi Bill,

Nice to see you here again. Some great advice and info there. Sometimes I think many of us get a bit complacent about such very helpful details because we start taking them for granted.

I agree, what you are describing their, does make the collective more sensitive around mid stick but due to the disc loading, it gives it more of the same collective feel of a lighter heli. So when comparing the two it would not feel overly sensitive.

I also use that type of collective on my Hawk Pro.

[Dennis P]

Billme I seen this last night and did the changes to my curve as it made perfect sense.I took it out and what a difference.It changed it from a sort of heavy feel when coming in fast and steep to a lighter crisper feel on the sticks.It feels alot more like my light electric helis do now.I had to be carfull as the amount of stick required to stop the Radikal 20 was quite a bit more than my other helis, this adjustment made them feel alot closer.I have no idea why I was set on the liniar curve? Thanks for the tip,keep them coming

[James Kovach]

Dennis,

What is you pitch range you are working with. I am used to running 12 to -12. So to get the same feel what I do is set the Heli up for that pitch range. Then I will adjust my first and last points on my pitch curve to limit the pitch to say 10 degrees. My pitch curve would be ...........

8-25-50-75-92

This gives you pretty much the same feel but limits the pitch.

[Dennis P]

I am running just a shade under 11 deg top and bottom.I have a 9 point pitch curve in my radio so I bumped up points 4 and 6 between 0 deg and mid stick .This way it did not effect my hover point at 3/4 and 1/4 stick but it sure did make it feel better coming to a stop ect.It is not a problem but it does make the heli feel more like the lighter electric helis I also fly.But to be honest I am flying them less as I seem to be really liking my Radikal .Sure would like to try the BH Hanson G200PU 3D max engine,they are claiming a 20% HP gain.

[James Kovach]

A pitch curve will totally change the feel of a Heli ss you have seen now. You get used to getting a certain response for a given input. You can adjust pitch curves to achieve the same "feel " on totally different helis.

[MotorRotor]

Here is what can be done with a properly modified pitch curve on a Predator (heavier then the G-30) back in 2007 in very heavy (semi-hurricane) winds with Billme at the sticks.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KU8viY2iuGg[/ame]

Believe me when I say that few people dared to even fly that day!!

[helimanny]

thats some sweet flying...cant tell how windy it is but the bird flys well....been wanting to find out more about the preditors..how do you like flying them?

[mss001]

My G30 (SE carbon version) is just about ready for the maiden

It does seem a little heavier than expected, so I was wondering how much yours weigh.

Mine has the following gear installed:
Hanson 3D max, Century slim muffler, Hi-flow filter, GV1, stator gator, 5x align servos, spartan quark CC bec pro, 710mm Radix blades, Radix 105mm tail blades, ar7110 rx.
With the above + a 3 cell 2200 mAh lipo but no fuel, it weighs around 5,8 kg (ca 12,8 pounds).

Does this seem heavy to you guys?

//Michael

[Jdeiter]

Originally Posted by mss001

My G30 (SE carbon version) is just about ready for the maiden

It does seem a little heavier than expected, so I was wondering how much yours weigh.

Mine has the following gear installed:
Hanson 3D max, Century slim muffler, Hi-flow filter, GV1, stator gator, 5x align servos, spartan quark CC bec pro, 710mm Radix blades, Radix 105mm tail blades, ar7110 rx.
With the above + a 3 cell 2200 mAh lipo but no fuel, it weighs around 5,8 kg (ca 12,8 pounds).

Does this seem heavy to you guys?

//Michael

Mine came out a little heavier than I had predicted as well. Based on my experiences & a little friendly advice, ditch the zip tied exhaust bracket. That will melt off within the first 5-10 minutes of running the engine. Also, triple check all your screws that they are loctite and not loose because some of mine came loose on me. i switched to red instead of blue on this bird. Also, keep an eye on all of the slide pins in on the head and tail, i lost a link on my tail pitch slider because the pin loosened up and few off. Looks Good!!

[Zman39]

Here is one of my G30 FBL's. It also has the torque tube conversion that will be available very soon. This one rtf (minus fuel) is a hair over 11#.

[mss001]

Originally Posted by Jdeiter

Mine came out a little heavier than I had predicted as well. Based on my experiences & a little friendly advice, ditch the zip tied exhaust bracket. That will melt off within the first 5-10 minutes of running the engine. Also, triple check all your screws that they are loctite and not loose because some of mine came loose on me. i switched to red instead of blue on this bird. Also, keep an eye on all of the slide pins in on the head and tail, i lost a link on my tail pitch slider because the pin loosened up and few off. Looks Good!!

How heavy exactly?? I'm having a hard time imagining where mine gained those extra 800 g