POST A PIC OF YOUR MSR

[jcmo]

Shutter speed on that camera must be pretty good - barely any motion blur on the blades!

[Ziggy72]

Shot at 1/60 on a Nikon D300. It's the flash that's stopped the motion in this case although the camera can do 1/8000. Would need a lot of light for that though!

[roubaix]

I tried the same Nine Eagle camo MD500 scale body on a Blade MSR. But it was a failed experiment.

First, with added weight, it won't take off with the two mini-guns and two rocket launchers.

Second, if I take the guns and launchers off, it will fly. But soon it gets in that dreaded toilet bowl effect.

I think MSR is too under powered to be converted into a scale. So this MD500 is just a shelf queen at the moment. Any ideas to make it flyable?

[GoatRider]

I got that body (the blue and white version) working on my mCX2 without much trouble. I still have to craft a new battery mount before I fly it regularly.

[RoboHeli]

That's weird that it isn't able to fly very well. I put that Bravo SX fuselage on a GW 9958 and it flies great. See here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1875173

Maybe you need to try a new battery? Maybe one of those new EFlite 25C or even 35Cbatts?

If you weigh your scale mode, how much heavier than stock is it?

[roubaix]

Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli

That's weird that it isn't able to fly very well. I put that Bravo SX fuselage on a GW 9958 and it flies great. See here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1875173

Maybe you need to try a new battery? Maybe one of those new EFlite 25C or even 35Cbatts?

If you weigh your scale mode, how much heavier than stock is it?

I just tried with a brand new Tenergy 160mah 15c batt, same thing. Toilet bowl effect. The heli rocks back and forth. I used the same Nine Eagle fuse on my MCX2. It's a very successful mod. I even added a small LED search light under the nose where a small cavity is. No toilet bowl on the MCX2.

My MSR MD500 is about 5~6 grams heavier than the stock MSR. I wonder if that's the problem. Even the stock MSR sometimes has toilet bowl effect. So with added weight, it might have made it even worse.

[SpinRay]

Here's mine. Extreme CF blade grips and tail fin. Aluminum landing gear. Still need a new swash and then I'll leave this one alone.

[Varc]

Originally Posted by roubaix

I just tried with a brand new Tenergy 160mah 15c batt, same thing. Toilet bowl effect. The heli rocks back and forth. I used the same Nine Eagle fuse on my MCX2. It's a very successful mod. I even added a small LED search light under the nose where a small cavity is. No toilet bowl on the MCX2.

My MSR MD500 is about 5~6 grams heavier than the stock MSR. I wonder if that's the problem. Even the stock MSR sometimes has toilet bowl effect. So with added weight, it might have made it even worse.

The MSR can't hold the weight that the NCPX can. I made a thread regarding such topic elsewhere. The NCPX has a much more powerful motor and higher head speed so it can handle weight much better. Still, look's great!

[Varc]

Originally Posted by roubaix

I tried the same Nine Eagle camo MD500 scale body on a Blade MSR. But it was a failed experiment.

First, with added weight, it won't take off with the two mini-guns and two rocket launchers.

Second, if I take the guns and launchers off, it will fly. But soon it gets in that dreaded toilet bowl effect.

I think MSR is too under powered to be converted into a scale. So this MD500 is just a shelf queen at the moment. Any ideas to make it flyable?

Save this fuselage for the NCPX. The NCPX is much more capable of handling the extra weight. I thought about that same camouflaged fuselage for my Nano, but where did you get the weapons from? Look's awesome!

[cow10r]

Originally Posted by akeeton

Finally took some nice photos of my mSR with MicroHeli upgrades: blade grips, swashplate, anti-rotation collar, flybar, main rotor hub, aluminum main shaft, main shaft collar and landing gear.

Sukhoi XP motor with 9 tooth pinion gear

What the difference in the Sukhoi XP and the stock motor. What I the benefit with 9 tooth pinion gear ? More blade speed ? Looks good. Any one make a canopy in black ?

[MicroHeliFan]

Here are a few shots of my mSR. I bought it last April, a few months after a GW Xieda 9958 - my only other FP micro heli. A dancer indoors and a real blast outdoors, the mSR is a totally different machine than the 9958 as far as flight behavior is concerned, despite the basic layout being nearly the same.



Trim was near perfect out of the box and I fine tuned the servo pushrods so that nowadays it hovers hands-free at about 50% throttle with all three trims on the transmitter centered, tail being the only one to adjust from time to time due to flimsiness of tail blade that gets easily bent.



To date it collected about eighty flights indoors and a handful outdoors, with very few crashes aside from many rough landings and minor bumps. It's still sort of stock throughout. I only heat-straightened the landing skid legs - the reduced track width doesn't allow the canopy bottom to hit the ground anymore over rough landings. I also unsoldered the battery cable, covered it with heatshrink tubing and resoldered it before removing the oversize spot of white silicone and shaping a small blob of clear liquid rubber in a sort of 'foot' around the base, then I heat bent it so it stays in position when no battery is connected without springing apart. Main blades collected a few nicks from hitting various sharp objects during tight spot landing training so I sanded and polished the leading edge, and trimmed the tips about a half-millimeter. Before trashing them for a fresh pair I also reshaped the trailing edge to obtain a straight instead of delta profile. Less camber should result in less lift, I thought, and a little more headspeed in hope to improve wind cutting capability when flying outside. I've only tried this setup indoors until now. Of course the first noticeable effect is a drastic decrease in climb rate and that was already put into account. Quick recovery from an altitude fall within a three feet's span isn't possible anymore, yet when a sudden cyclic command is applied the heli simply goes in that direction as translational lift is lessened by far.

I had already bought all of the essential spare parts along with the RTF version. Nevertheless, instead of installing my spares, after its only serious crash more than a month ago I chose to run an extensive repair job which I was expecting to last only so far. Aside from being forced to replace the flybar, my spare parts box is still untouched.

I replaced the skid's front pin with a tiny wooden dowel imbedded in clear liquid rubber cement (Max Repair looks like an evolution of the traditional, yellow contact cement) which accidentally turned out to work nicely as a shock absorber. Canopy nose - luckily the frame pins did not - shattered after the bad crash I experienced when an FFF attempt in my courtyard too close to the ground went awry. Both main shaft and tail boom broke cleanly without shattering fibers so I succeeded in repairing the shaft, which split only as far as above the hub screw hole, with CA glue which now lines the shaft bore as well. Then I re-tapped the hub mounting screw hole so now it's even stronger than stock. The boom splintered in three near the frame socket and it underwent the same treatment as the shaft - no mark left ever. Main blade grips broke at the joining holes. Repair was tricky because CA sort of melts that kind of cheesy, Chinese plastic.

On the other hand, mSR's blade grips need no crash in order to split open; that would eventually happen just by re-tightening the two halves together because there's too little material surrounding the locking holes. The tiny interlocking arms with their inner keyhole-shaped, miniature tenon-and mortise alignment cutout, break just sneezing on it - unless they did not already upon first assembly like I experienced with brand new grips, with little surprise I should add. Mine are still going strong now, but not before beefing up the inner 'square' with multiple layers of thin CA left to dry without spraying accelerator (it would only make the plastic brittler than they already is out of the box) and having the locking screwholes precision tapped with a 1,2 mm drill bit - the original set screw can't really tap its hole without damaging the part since the hole is undersized and there's no enough 'meat' around it. The screw receptacles are perpendicular to the feathering shaft chamber and dangerously close to it: their screw even makes one side of the inner 'square', formed by the two halves, bulge from apparent screw oversize (pinching the hub's washers and impairing hub articulation) until the paper-thin plastic on that side splits open leaving some of the threads exposed. Once that happens, the whole combination of hub and grips goes out of alignment with obvious consequences before shattering apart. Talk about having to cope with TBE... I never had, guess why.

The links didn't break though. I think this kept the blades from flying around and possibly making things worse. The crash left both hub and feathering spindle undamaged. Luckily enough, nothing happened to the receiver; both servos and pushrods were unharmed, I even found the swashplate level. Skid's front pin broke so did the flybar, the only part I really had to replace. I glued back the canopy as well, then after reshaping the nose with medium CA and painting the job with a blue permanent marker I applied a thin layer of clear rubber along the inner seam, leaving a thicker blob to partly fill the nose's inside for added strenght.

To date everything is still lined up pretty good. This little heli flies remarkably well.



Last photo was really awkward but I somewhat made it - I cannot avoid blurring it with just one hand available...

[adanmtxt1]

[Pfloyd]

My MSR next to my brand new Spektum DX6!